Cookwithvette

I've been thinking lately... as I add more and more electrical components, working with the current electrical setup is getting clunky.

The Spals: high current 12v+ and a switched, low current 12v+.
The Commander 950: always on 12v+, switched, low current 12v+ and ground
The fuel pump: signal line from computer, 12V+ supply
High amp alternator... heavier gauge output wire wouldn't be a bad idea.

I plan on adding...
Headlight relays for a little extra juice.
Possibly A/C in the future.
umm... other things I've temporarily forgotten about.

Bottom line is I'm ending up with a bunch of seperate components all with their own individual fuses and relays scattered about. That's when I started thinking about my mother's minivan. It has a nice fuse and relay panel in the engine compartment. That panel alone (there are others on the car) probably has more circuits than I'd need all together.

So... the project begins. If the weather EVER clears up I'm heading out to a local junkyard that lets you roam freely to pick a panel. :) Eventually I plan on replacing the old style fuse box and significant portions of the harness. I know that seatbelt-interlock system is hiding in the bushes waiting to kick me in the "buttocks" again. :lol:

I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Take care! :cheers:

442olds

Gm was really good about keeping same dimensions on things. I took a fuse panel from a caprice I believe and it fits into the same hole as the factory corvette fuse block. So I now have blade fuses and a ton more circuits just from doing that. The only real problem I had is there isn't enough room for the second flasher on the panel itself. So if you want turn signals and hazards you'll have to remote mount one of the flashers. I think if you go by the factory layout of the panel its the turn signal flasher that has to be remote mounted. But even corvettes had the turn flasher stuck way over on the passenger side. Go figure.

I made my own realy panel and hid it under dash on the tranny tunnel where the radio should go. Couldn't hear the radio even if had installed one.

Good luck with your project. Wireing can get pretty intense when you start running a lot of seperate circuits and you only have 10 or 12 wire color choices because you to cheap to buy striped wires too.

Cookwithvette

Thanks! :cheers: I'll keep Caprice in mind while I'm hunting.

Only 10 or 12 :lol: right now I only have 3 colors. Any idea where I can get my hands on an assortment of automotive quality wires with a variety of colors?

stpman

I have a catalog from a company that sells automotive wire in bulk (not sure of min order....100' per size/color?) they have a large assortment of colors and sizes. I can look for it and let you know when I get home later tonight if you like.

Steve :steering:


[Modified by stpman, 12:20 PM 4/2/2004]

Cookwithvette

That would be great. Thanks! :cheers:

markdtn

GM is very good about using similar plugs and colors to a point. I started to retrofit a 77 Bonneville main harness in my 69. The Vettes have lots of different wires with hard-to-find colors (wiper override, some of the lamps, etc) and I would have ended up using a lot of the old wiring. I wanted blade fuses instead of glass, but it was just too much hassle. As far as you underhood wiring, you can find an auxillary fuse block and power it from the starter lug. Look for cop cars/taxis, or at least full sized. Some have nice fuse/relay blocks that would work nicely. Late Suburbans also come to mind.


[Modified by markdtn, 12:11 PM 4/2/2004]

73ragtop

Thy name is Bubba. I have two words and a URL for you: Painless Wiring.
http://www.painlesswiring.com/catalogframe.htm

PROSOUTH

Good ideas, Cookwithvette, real good.

73ragtop thanks for the URL of Painless Wiring. I like that 7 circuit ign block for sure. Thanks Jim
http://www.painlesswiring.com/catalogframe.htm

:seeya

Martin72

This may be a Bubba suggestion, but I've done it before. Find a late model truck with the trailer towing option. Most have a separate fuse panel under the hood....attached to the inner fender well, that contains several power circuits....relays....etc. Many have provisions for hi-amperage connections and many relays can be used for extra lights, fans, etc.

Yes, Painless wiring has the same kits...but at a price. Many times you can pickup the fuse panel from an old-style junk yard for very little. Just depends on how much money vs. how much time you have available.

Cookwithvette

Martin, we're on the same wavelength. :lol: I'll keep trucks in mind, thanks! :cheers:

mrvette

Well when I did the first wiring itteration back around '95 or so, for the original engine and stock TPI setup, I made my own harness, but routed it near the accelerator cable, and then over top of the stock radio and over to behind the map pocket, attached to the cover plate backside.....problem is that bundle was too large for the spotk, and a super PIA to work with, so about 3 years ago now, I pulled the thing apart when doing much other work, and the rack/piniion install....and must have pulled about a mile of un necessary original GM wiring out of the car.....like that turn signal flasher as a classic case in point....having redone the entire interior harness, and simplifying the dash lighting, and redone all the grounds and main feeds, the car is much more simple in the electrical department....I find there is not much if any room in the engine compartment for a dedicated relay panel, and the mounting problmes with it are same/just as bad as for say a MSD box....
which is why I didn't bother, I have a driving lamp relay on the driver's fender, in front of the horn relay, a fan controll relay on the shroud on driver's side, and the fuel pump relay above the brake booster in a firewall nich, the anti theft circuitry is totally rewired with purposely NON STOCK wiring, of all identical colors, just specifically to discourage theft, so any attempts to gronk with the computer and start/drive the car are about fruitless.....of course I have my own documentation....

GENE

Enad

You can buy these styles from DelCity(.net) along with automotive wire, relays etc. The style on the lower left interlock to make a single unit. I would use crosslink wire in the engine compartment. :thumbs:

Dane

Cookwithvette

Gene, That's one of the things I like about EFI... you get SO many opportunities to make it that much harder to steal your car. A lot of folks say "if a thief wants it, he'll get it" and that's probably true but I say, "make them work for it." :lol:

Dane, I'll be buying my wire from DelCity. Thanks for the tip on crosslink... engineers sure can come up with funny names.






These are a couple pics of something similar to what I have in mind. I have the space under the hood on the passenger side which is good considering that's where the starter is. Main goals are to centralize fuses and relays, reduce the number of switches carrying high current, and reduce the number of wires coming off the starter lug.

Thanks guys!
:cheers:

bb69

Have you looked at MAD Enterprises to see some of their ideas on rewiring headlights and other high current items? They have a lot of good ideas for improving the electrical. Please keep us posted because I had the same idea in my head for my Camaro. I quick pulled the cover on my Taurus (company car) and it looks like it has plenty of circuits. My diesel RAM definitly has enough with the intake air heater, fuel heater, fuel pump, etc.

Good luck.
Ken

Cookwithvette

Ken, :yesnod: It was their tech articles that got me thinking. Great info on their site. :cheers: