Brettmc

Going to do this next so I can get my new Xstream lid to fit. I read some previous posts from the archives. I've got 2 ideas on how to do this. First would be to grind it off with my angle grinder. Second would be to use a cutoff wheel on the dremel. Which would you guys suggest? BUT, what about small pieces of metal getting down into the carb throat? How do I clean the metal pieces from the carb afterwards? A gas bath? Would it be better to take off the bowls and metering blocks then mill it or is that unnecessary?

Brett :thumbs:

norvalwilhelm

I( mill all my holley carbs to remove the choke tower and like the title states, I mill them off. I do take the carb apart first.

Brettmc

I guess I mistyped on the title cause I won't be milling it off. I'll be cutting, scraping, hacking it off. I'm not as fortunate as you norval, to have a fully equipped metal working shop. Can you remember me in your will? Your wife surely won't need all those cool machines.

Brett :thumbs:

Fevre

You might try cover all the inlets/holes/ports with masking tape after tearing it down before you start cutting, scraping, hacking it .. :) I would be inclined to use the dremmel cutting tool to get the main portion of it off then grind/sand it smooth.

page62

Disassemble it. If you get just ONE piece of metal in there (and you're gonna have some decent-sized chunks!) you'll live to regret it.

yellow 72

I dissassembled the carb and chucked a 5 inch cut-off wheel in a drill press.
After setting the table to the right height, I just rotated the carb body into the wheel for a perfect cut. Cleaned it all up with comp. air :cheers:



[Modified by yellow 72, 6:24 PM 4/1/2004]

Solid LT1

You can buy a nicley made Pro Form throttle body if you are running a 650, 700, or 750 Double pumper for under $100 (at Jeg's or Summit Racing.) The thing was worth about 10HP at the rear wheels on my 355cu/in LT-1 over my 650DP with a milled and profiled choke tower (about 3hrs of labor in my Holley mods, under $100 for instant gratification.) The biggest priblem I had was a jetting baseline, I'm running 72 primaries (6.5HG power valve) and 82 secondary jets on my motor (371 HP at our clubs recent dyno day.) The additional benefit of the Pro Form body is the removable air bleeds for further tuning capabilites.

cardo0

You really need to remove the carb - even if you have to replace the gaskets. To do this while on the engine would only be a desparate choice.
Once off car then turn upsidedown and drain out fuel. Next just cover boosters, vents and airbleeds with tape & rags. Stuff rag in venturi and you can cover exposed gear with rags too. Cut away. After cutting & filing finished just remove rags, tape and then clean with vacuum for loose fines.
Good luck. :seeya

Brettmc

I would love to have a proform body for this carb. Summit lists one for this 850 DP.....$200. Not quite ready for all that.

Brett :thumbs:

Brettmc

I got started on it last nite. I covered the air bleeds and the entire top venturi area with duct tape. After I started I wished I had covered the metering block mating surface too as I'm getting a lot of metal dust there. I'm going to have to get a better dremel. The one my wife gave me as a gift 2 years ago is a Black and Decker takeoff that's battery powered. It just doesn't have a cajones that I think an AC powered one would have.

Brett :thumbs: