STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler
#1
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler
Well after three months STINGRY is mobile again.:steering:
Good news is it now has 350HP of engine pulling it around and a great set of power brakes stopping it (as in locks up all wheels).:hurray:
Bad news - car backfired during start up and BLEW one of the mufflers open and bulged the second one! Talk about scaring the crap out of me!:cry
FS - Slightly used stainless mufflers. Only been on car for five minutes! :rofl:
[Modified by stingry, 11:15 AM 3/29/2004]
Good news is it now has 350HP of engine pulling it around and a great set of power brakes stopping it (as in locks up all wheels).:hurray:
Bad news - car backfired during start up and BLEW one of the mufflers open and bulged the second one! Talk about scaring the crap out of me!:cry
FS - Slightly used stainless mufflers. Only been on car for five minutes! :rofl:
[Modified by stingry, 11:15 AM 3/29/2004]
#3
Re: STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler (stingry)
FS - Slightly used stainless mufflers. Only been on car for five minutes! :rofl:
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler (Nifty 71)
I did convert from manual to power brakes.
It was a pain in the a.. but in the end was very worthwhile. I think that if I had power steering I would of installed hydroboost. I drove the car yesterday for the first time yesterday and tested the brakes. I have about 1 inch of travel before I lock up the wheels. I have all sorts of brakes now.
If you want to know how to do it then do a search on posts. Here is the short list.
Buy booster and new M/C (Reconditioned any auto store $130)
Buy new M/C to proportinoning valve lines (2) and brake switch stop for pedal. (corvette central) ($50)
Remove driver seat.
Remove steering column
Drain M/C and remove
Remove M/C to proportioning valve lines and plug/cover valve
Make template for booster holes.
Mark out booster holes on firewall.
Punch out studs in firewall. (two)
Drill four holes in firewall for booster.
Bolt up booster to firewall. Use universals and socket extensions to get to top left nut.
Connect booster to brake pedal (different hole to manual and may need to be drilled - you may need to remove the pedal assembly to do this, if so do BEFORE you install the booster)
Once booster is installed its all easy after that.
There is a lot more detail but you get the idea. Painful but rewards are great brakes. Note that if your brakes leak then when the booster applies 1000+ PSI it will find the leaks real fast. I replaced everything brake related in my car over the last year.
It was a pain in the a.. but in the end was very worthwhile. I think that if I had power steering I would of installed hydroboost. I drove the car yesterday for the first time yesterday and tested the brakes. I have about 1 inch of travel before I lock up the wheels. I have all sorts of brakes now.
If you want to know how to do it then do a search on posts. Here is the short list.
Buy booster and new M/C (Reconditioned any auto store $130)
Buy new M/C to proportinoning valve lines (2) and brake switch stop for pedal. (corvette central) ($50)
Remove driver seat.
Remove steering column
Drain M/C and remove
Remove M/C to proportioning valve lines and plug/cover valve
Make template for booster holes.
Mark out booster holes on firewall.
Punch out studs in firewall. (two)
Drill four holes in firewall for booster.
Bolt up booster to firewall. Use universals and socket extensions to get to top left nut.
Connect booster to brake pedal (different hole to manual and may need to be drilled - you may need to remove the pedal assembly to do this, if so do BEFORE you install the booster)
Once booster is installed its all easy after that.
There is a lot more detail but you get the idea. Painful but rewards are great brakes. Note that if your brakes leak then when the booster applies 1000+ PSI it will find the leaks real fast. I replaced everything brake related in my car over the last year.
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Re: STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler (stingry)
Is the car running rich? My boss blew a muffler on his barracuda because it was running rich and the fuel ignited in the muffler.
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler (Sigforty)
The car was timed 180 out. I think we filled up the exhaust pipe and muffler with lots of gas then gave it a little spark (on the wrong stroke). Large bang heard. Five minutes later with engine on the real TDC car started first crank. Just sounds like a harley though!
Will be checking the mixture this weekend.
Will be checking the mixture this weekend.
#7
Safety Car
Re: STINGRY Back on the road - Backfire destroyed Muffler (stingry)
car backfired during start up and BLEW one of the mufflers open and bulged the second one! Talk about scaring the crap out of me!:cry