bb69

Well, I decided to replace the axle yokes this weekend because they had excessive play. I got the rear end out and the cover off. After some wrestling, I also got the clips off the axles. However, the ends of the axles are mushroomed over, and the axles won't come out. Any ideas on getting these out?

Thanks for any help.

Ken

Bluewasp

A friend of mine is having the same problem. ??? anyone?? TTT for you!
:lurk: :lurk:

bb69

I searched before posting, and found nothing. The I did another search and found a couple suggestions. One is to grind the ends off. The other is to either pul with a slide hammer or push out with a hammer and drift. Grinding will be tough to get all the mushroomed area, and will leave debris. Hammering out may hurt the bearings. Any other ideas?

Thanks
Ken

GDaina

use a file to rid the burrs on the end of the shafts...it will be a slow process, but that's only option...if you force them out, you will cause more damage...

Ron Major

I was thinking of a grinder or dremel tool..........good luck.....let us know how you solved the problem.


Ron

GTR1999

Use a Dremal,file,or burr. Sometimes you have to drive them out but be careful you don't damage the side gear splines. How worn are they? New there is about 3/16" from the end to the snap ring groove. If you have them worn down to the snap ring I would look very closely at the bearings and check the oil for metal chips. Use a magnet in the oil. I usually rebuild the differentials when they are worn to this point. Repalce the yoke seals too,get the seals from NAPA they should be a stock item and are made by CR seal. Better then some of the seals I got in rebuild kits. Check the pinion seal for leaking too but don't remove the pinion nut until you know the procedure or you'll screw up the bearing preload for sure.
Gary

bb69

I got them out using a combination of the methods suggested. The yokes were worn pretty bad. The worst part is, I just had the rear end rebuilt last year. Now, about that, a friend that builds axles for American Axle did it for free. The rebuild included new LSD discs and plates, new bearings, new ring gear bolts, and new seals. I should have checked the clearance then, but didn't. Anyway, I used a die grinder with a grinding stone on it and ground as much as I could reach. Then I pushed the shafts out. I have flushed the case with some cleaners and engine oil. I will flush it a few more times before putting it back. The real problem came when I installed the replacement axles.

I bought some used ones from the forum. The ends were much better than what I had, but there is still an excessive amount of play. I am going to shim it up some before putting it back in the car. I was hoping to have it done today, but you know the deal.

On a more positive note, I did get the new Bilstein's put in with no problems and the new Russel stainless flex lines. It's time for some spring driving. :auto:

Thanks for the help.
Ken

Chuck Gongloff

Don't mess around with used ones that are somewhat "better" than what you just fought to get out. Buy new "tool steel insert" rebuilt ones. You'll sleep better. Chuck

bb69

I am looking on the internet now for options. I tried Van Steels website, but didn't find any. Who else would you guys recommend?

Thanks
Ken

isosceles

Van Steel sells them with hardened ends. I had them put a new set in mine. Send Dan an email or call them Monday 800 418 5397

Chris69

I bought new ones with hardened ends (Ikerd's) and also replaced the cross shaft with a hardened one (Tom's Differentials).

lone73

Ken,
If you install the John Giovanni style rear with upper links you will never have this problem again.
good luck
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lostpatrolman

Lone73, do you have a link for this John Giovanni style rear with upper links??

bb69

lone73,
I hear you, but this car is pretty much all stock except for a few bolt on items like wheels and shocks. THe hardest thing to change back to stock is the HEI and electric tach. I've thought about it, and if I found a way to do something like this without cutting and welding, I just may do it. I don't know this kit particularly, but I assume it requires welding on the frame. Is that correct?

Thanks
Ken

lone73

Ken
No welding required with the kit I bought. I got it from a guy in BC Canada. Rick Taylor. You do have to drill 3 small holes in the top flat surface of each T/A to bolt the outer brackets to. The original design did require welding but the kit I bought was a bolt on. It did require removing the differential to get the C-clips off the yokes. That was the hardest part. This kit makes service and alignments much easier with adjustable upper links. I went with VB smart struts at the same time and now have fully adjustable upper and lower arms.

LostPatrolman,
Here is the only link with info on the setup that I know of.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/6link/index.html
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bb69

lone73,
Now you're talking. That looks great. I wasn't aware this was available. I wouldn't even mind welding on the T-arm as those can be replaced or repaired. Now for the hard part: would you mind saying what this system cost?

Thanks
Ken

lone73

I think I paid Rick Taylor $350 for the setup including some used VB struts. That was a couple of years ago. I will never go back to stock, at least on the upper struts.

I believe I was only the 2nd person on this board to go that route. Another guy from Saskatchewan (I think) Stingy74 got me interested. I believe he was the first forum poster here that had them. There are a few here running that setup at present. Some have made home-made setups, Norval I think and Brutus down under.
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bb69

I know other people are running a 6 link, but I thought they were all welding on the frame. I'll have to go back and look at some of the posts.

I think I might go ahead and start working on making my own. I have a spare diff I can use as a template for the center bracket. It just never crossed my mind to bolt it to the diff.

Thanks
Ken