GDaina

posting to get the thread in synch w/the clock

vetteboy1976kr

The blue stuff is usually used for smaller botls (less that 1/2") and the red is for 1/2" or larger. Blue is removable grade, and red is not, although it doesn't take a huge amount of effort to get the bolt out. I would have also gone with the blue. As for the torque, a generic spec for a 5/16" bolt is about 35-40 ft. lbs. I would think this should work here also.

cardo0

I installed a new water pump (polished alum Edelbrock - yes looks great) and it came with only bolts for the fan clutch/pulley package. Too much wieght with fan & clutch & pulleys to get bolts started. Original pump used studs that came out of old pump fairly easily. I found new studs to go with my new pump and clutch hardware but needed a way to lock studs in when torquing the nuts down on clutch. :rolleyes:
So heres what I tried. :conehead The replacement 5/16"x24x18 studs were longer than original and was able to fit a thin jam nut on x24 threads on backside of pump flange. But this would only lock stud when removing the x18 thread nuts off clutch flange. So I used blue permitex threadlocker before tightening jam nut to hold the stud when tightening x18 nut onto clutch. I'm a bit worried here as I failed to clean the preservative/oil off the new studs before using blue threadlocker . I'm letting it harden up for a few days before torquing.
BTW I can't find a torque spec for the fan clutch stud nuts. Anyone have a good torque value for this and where did u find it.
Will blue permitex threadlocker be strong enough for the WP/fan clutch studs? What are you using? :confused:

cardo0

ttt :D

cardo0

ttt one more time. :D

BEBOP138

Use the red Loctite
, what the heck you get new studs when you buy a new pump anyway. Why take chances of it coming loose, now these are the threads on water pump. The threads holding fan to hub use the blue...and I also use stainless lock washers and nuts.

motown 71

I used the red stuff and then went with Aluminum washers to prevent corrosion for dissimilar metals, the stainless will cause corosion of the
aluminum if they are in direct contact with each other.

BEBOP138

Your right MOTOWN71 on the corrsion factor!!!!!!!!! I will change my lock washers... :chevy :iagree:

mvftw

Would Stainless Steel washes affect a cast iron pump? I just replaced my old non-stock pump with a factory rebuilt unit (#330813). I cleaned it with alcohol and just clear-coated it. It turned to light rust in 1 week. I just took it out again and I'm going to use POR15 or Rust-Bullet.

cardo0

Thanks to all for the input. :D

BEBPOP, the studs would/could be very troublesome and time consuming to remove if needed to using the red locktite . :banghead: Just hoping to get away with using the blue if possible. I was hoping someone might have a trick fix for this. Next try will be with red locktite if needed.

motown, I used the SS gear as the flange that the studs thread into is steel and I would have used SS studs if I could have found them. The only Al is the pump casting but the shaft with the flange is regular steel and should be fine.
:seeya

Sleper

Cardo0 the locktight dries with the absence of air. Do not let dry and then retorque. Torque and leave alone and let the locktight work otherwise you have broken the seal. Good Luck :cheers:

cardo0

Update, blue locktite (well blue permitex) worked just fine. I let dry for several days Sleper. :thumbs: