GTR1999

Anyone know why the replacement upper ball joint bolts are supposed to be mounted with the head from the bottom, the washer & nut on top? I don't see any clearence issues and only 1 old book I have even mentions it. torque is 25 ft/lbs on each.

Also I called Moog in regard to the lower ball joint torque spec's since the USA joints I have don;t have any info with them. The torque spec is 20-30 ft/lbs on the center bolt, then tighten the side bolts to 14-19 ft/lbs.

Thanks
Gary

Jim Martley2

Easier to read the torque wrench when tightening the nut?? :) :)

:seeya Hi Gary!!

GTR1999

Hey Buddy,good to hear from you again.

I don't know? I can't see why it makes a difference,but the Moog catalog does show the bolt going up through the joint. I asked the tech but he sounded like he wasn't too familar with this setup. He said it was for clearence,but I don't see anything that would come close to it?

Gary

PS, Jim did you ever bring your cars up to the NH drags for the Super Chevy show?

Tom454

To keep the threaded part of the bolt away from the grease seal ?

GTR1999

Hey Tom,boy this is old home day!

Anyway, I just looked at them again and there is 3/8" between the screw end and the boot even when I compress the boot. Which way have you installed them in the past? I prefer the heads showing on top of the ball joint.

Gary

Tom454

Hey Gary... yah... I moved since the last time we talked... new address, new tel number.

Look at an installed spindle/balljoint/arm... I think the ball stud skews over a little when loaded. This might affect the clearance to the boot.

I don't have one in front of me... so I was guessing anyways... took a shot in the dark based on memory or lack there of.

Jim Martley2

Gary,
You know me, wax on - wax off!!! I'm only a "cruiser".
Seriously, If memory serves me correct, we have another show the weekend that is going on. I WOULD like to try running the yellow 93 at the drags just to see how it does in stock form.

Jim

LiveandLetDrive

If this thread is still about the balljoints :lol: I put mine in downwards. I usually try to do this as I will only lose the nut/washer if it goes loose, and I figure gravity won't be trying to undo the nut. I broke the rules and didn't follow the directions on that part. :bb

-Chris

GTR1999

Yeah this is what I was thinking too,if the nut loosen up then it will fall out not the bolt. Of course once torqued into place it shouldn't loosen up. I went through my pictures and ran the bolts this way on one car for 20 years without any known problems? Again the only reference to this I can find is in a 1976 edition of Cylmers. Anyone have any pictures?
Thanks,
Gary

GTR1999

FYI I just heard back from Moog and they said the only thing they can think of is the bolt threads hitting the rubber boot under load in the suspension.
So I guess I'll be changing the position to play it safe.

CWUin82

Hi Gary,
You have made a good point here. I just assumed that the threads would be down. Glad I came here and read your post before I reinstalled the arms today.

GTR1999

Hi Jim, good to hear from you again. To add another spin to this, I went through my Corvette Fever issues and found 2 separate issues that have articles on rebuilding the arms and in both of them the bolts are down. I don't think it reall matters anymore but I'm not going to change back the bolts again!
Gary

NHvette

I had the arms off when I did mine ... so I didn't even think about it until now.
I'm gonna have to head down and check mine out.
:bb :seeya

CWUin82

Good to see familiar faces Gary, I haven't been here much of late.
I was looking at the bolts I had on one A-arm today, and I didn't think the bolt was long enough to have an effect on the rubber boot even with a load on it. I left everything as it was....bolts down.
If you take a look in any catalog that sells A-arms with the ball joints already installed, it shows the pic with the bolts down. I don't think it really matters.