Dropping a drag link/center link
03-17-2004, 02:49 PM
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Dropping a drag link/center link
): Hi Norval,
I was looking thru old posts and found one where you posted a picture of a Camaro drag link that was modified for bump steer. I was wondering if you had the picture still.
Here is my problem. I'm swapping in an LS1 and the drag link is hitting the oil pan. Raising the motor causes other issues to come up, so I'd like to be able to do something with the drag link. Even if I could make something that curved down in the center to get me 1/2" of clearance would be sufficient. I've been reading thru all of your bumpsteer posts and I think I understand, but have a basic question or two. On your car, you kept the inner tie rod ends in the original positions and dropped the outers down, right? From your last pics, it seems like it went rearward too?
Can I make (or even buy) a drag link that will give me more clearance to solve that problem? If addressing bump steer at the same time is best, I'd like to do that too.
Any help with words or pictures is certainly appreciated.
This question was asked of me and I thought I would share the answer and if anyone wants to comment???
A center link certainly would be bent down to clear the pan but when you turn the wheel the ends would rub.
MOve the entire link down.
The idler arm can easily be removed. 2 bolt through the frame and with a pickle fork undo the end of the center link.
If you want to drop the center link 1 inch just drill the bottom hole 1 inch higher up the idler arm. But there is not enough metal on the top to move the upper hole 1 inch. Easy. Add a piece, cut a piece and weld it to the top. The load is extemely light so welding is not a problem, drill the upper hole 1 inch higher, reinstall the idler arm and you have the passengers side down the 1 inch.
The drivers side is alot harder and some will argue here. Remove the pitman arm, cut, make a simple fig and reweld in a piece moving the pitman arm down one inch. It takes longer to pop the pitman arm off then to cut and weld.
It is done all the time on race cars.
My vet has a cut and welded pitman arm for most of it's life.
The arm is weldable, easy to jig to hold in position and with decent welding will cause no problems.
I have a spare 75 pitman arm that I bought for $60CDN. Need it modified 1 inch 2 inches whatever. I will sell you the arm modified for my cost.
This lowers the entire center link the amount of the added peices but doesn't help bump steer. To correct this you need to lower the outer.
This is a drag link that has had 3 new inner tie rod mounting holes added.
Double click to enlarge
[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 1:54 PM 3/17/2004]
I was looking thru old posts and found one where you posted a picture of a Camaro drag link that was modified for bump steer. I was wondering if you had the picture still.
Here is my problem. I'm swapping in an LS1 and the drag link is hitting the oil pan. Raising the motor causes other issues to come up, so I'd like to be able to do something with the drag link. Even if I could make something that curved down in the center to get me 1/2" of clearance would be sufficient. I've been reading thru all of your bumpsteer posts and I think I understand, but have a basic question or two. On your car, you kept the inner tie rod ends in the original positions and dropped the outers down, right? From your last pics, it seems like it went rearward too?
Can I make (or even buy) a drag link that will give me more clearance to solve that problem? If addressing bump steer at the same time is best, I'd like to do that too.
Any help with words or pictures is certainly appreciated.
This question was asked of me and I thought I would share the answer and if anyone wants to comment???
A center link certainly would be bent down to clear the pan but when you turn the wheel the ends would rub.
MOve the entire link down.
The idler arm can easily be removed. 2 bolt through the frame and with a pickle fork undo the end of the center link.
If you want to drop the center link 1 inch just drill the bottom hole 1 inch higher up the idler arm. But there is not enough metal on the top to move the upper hole 1 inch. Easy. Add a piece, cut a piece and weld it to the top. The load is extemely light so welding is not a problem, drill the upper hole 1 inch higher, reinstall the idler arm and you have the passengers side down the 1 inch.
The drivers side is alot harder and some will argue here. Remove the pitman arm, cut, make a simple fig and reweld in a piece moving the pitman arm down one inch. It takes longer to pop the pitman arm off then to cut and weld.
It is done all the time on race cars.
My vet has a cut and welded pitman arm for most of it's life.
The arm is weldable, easy to jig to hold in position and with decent welding will cause no problems.
I have a spare 75 pitman arm that I bought for $60CDN. Need it modified 1 inch 2 inches whatever. I will sell you the arm modified for my cost.
This lowers the entire center link the amount of the added peices but doesn't help bump steer. To correct this you need to lower the outer.
This is a drag link that has had 3 new inner tie rod mounting holes added.
Double click to enlarge
[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 1:54 PM 3/17/2004]
