68raggtop

:confused: Anyone know whereI can find an inch/pound torque wrench that will go down to 5 inch pounds? Mine is a clicker and starts at 25 inch/pounds. Any other way to set up the steering box without one? I have found a couple, but $150 is more than I want to spend on this.
Thanks,
Dave :smash:

gerry72

You'll have to go to the torque meter (the torque wrench with a dial on it for those who don't know what a torque meter is) to get any accuracy at that low measurement. If you found one for $150.00 new, that's a very good price.

68raggtop

Any opinion on this one? http://www.deltaregis.com/webapp/wcs...egory_rn=10767

:smash:

GTR1999

I use a dial inch/pound torque wrench. Snap and EPH make them but they run about $250. I found another brand online for about $130. It works good but the Snap-On wrench I used I like the best.
If you're only going to use it for one steering box it's not worth it. I rebuild the boxes for friends and my cars so I bought one. I use it also forthe differential rebuild in case you are planning on that someday.
Gary

68raggtop

Thanks :thumbs:

70BBvert

KD Tools makes a beam style in-lb toque wrench that sells for around $50 also.

Jim

Tom454

Here's another one...
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...&usrcommgrpid=


Don't know how accurate it is at 5 in lbs though

GTR1999

I also have a beam wrench but haven't used it since I went to the dial type.My .02, I wouldn't use anything else for this job. As you know Tom, the box bearing & lash setup is very close.
Gary

adam

Try a bicycle shop...

DVG73

That's where I got mine, from a bike supply company on the net it was about 30 bucks

rponfick

I bought a beam type years ago with a buddy that also had a need for one, and we share it. If you are not in the rebuilding business, I would think it would be hard to justify the expensive dial type, unless you have lots of extra money. The beam type has always been accurate/acceptable in measuring the low readings required to pre-load the steering box. Just my .02 cents worth.

Mike Ward

Make one! With a simple bit of calculation and a kitchen scale, you can figure out how much load to apply to the end of any length wrench or rachet.

If your wrench is 5 inches long, you want a total load of one pound on the end, including the suspended weight of the wrench.

It's not worth buying a in/lb. torque wrench just to use once. :cheers:

70BBvert

Bought mine from a local supply house, after a little price negotiation. Found it here on line

<A HREF="http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/product.asp?sourceid=NO+SOURCE&dept%5Fid =500&pf%5Fid=71321&mscssid=8FFFMG7QGQSR2 G5T00J74FSAN95S8T4A" TARGET="_blank">http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/product.asp?sourceid=NO+SOURCE&dept%5Fid =500&pf%5Fid=71321&mscssid=8FFFMG7QGQSR2 G5T00J74FSAN95S8T4A</a>

68raggtop

:D Thanks, I just ordered the 0-60 IN/LB from toolsource. :thumbs:

Jim Shea

The beam type 0-60 in-lb wrench from Toolsource should do a fine job. The Saginaw Steering Gear prototype shop used beam type wrenches when checking and setting up steering gears. The only additional thing was that their wrenches had small plastic "tattle-tails" that would indicate the maximum torque when you had to sweep through a quadrant. But I am sure that if you are careful, you can eyeball the maximum torque.

mark79,80

Also ordered one from Tool Source. They provided quick delivery.
When trying to use it, took some searching to find a socket that would fit
over the splines on the steering gear box. Tried all the sockets I had and
found one 12 point 11/16 inch socket would fit without slipping. Had other
12 point 11/16 sockets and they were too loose. Must be on the one, the
points are cut a bit deeper. As the socket was for half inch drive, had to
use reducers to go to the 1/4 inch drive of the torque wrench. Curious,
what sockets anyone else found will work?

GTR1999

For the early boxes (63-early 69),I use an 11/16 12 pt. For the late 69- up boxes, I use a old rag joint that I welded a couple of hex nuts to,works real nice.
Gary