72ls5fla

Well .. I put a post a day or so ago about a high pitched noise coing from the rear of the car. I checked out the U-Joints and they are bad ... HOWEVER ...........

I also found that the rear bearing on the passenger side is completely crapped out and the drivers side is kinda on its way. The car sat undriven for nearly 15 years and I guess when I started to drive it, it killed the seals and the rest is history ..

How in the heck do I get those damn mounts out ???? I tried puting the castle nuts on backwards and beating them - not a single budge ! :mad

I have them soaked with rust penatrent too .. I have tried taking weight off the training arm by jacking on the spring, also tried just jacking the spindle up to releave pressure.

AM I MISSING SOMETHING ?? I'm afraid to beat it any more . it seems like the trailing arm is moving backwards, the strut rod is now at an off angle and shifted to the rear ...

I just dont want to hose up the strutrods, they are the originals and I need them to stay intact for judging later on..

Suggestions WELCOMED ...

Bill

Jack71

There is a "tool" that the vendors sell, which allow you to bang on them without mushrooming the ends.

I got mine off with a torch. Heat them up, smack it with a hammer and they pop right off. You can rent an Oxy-acetylene torch or buy a cheap one in Home Dopey. Good luck...


[Modified by Jack71, 5:20 PM 3/13/2004]

Chuck Gongloff

You should disconnect the spring. BE CAREFUL doing it.

Removing the shock mounts AND removing the trailing arms is by far the most miserable, difficult job you'll encounter. There is no way to get the shock mounts out other than to pound them out. You must be careful not to mushroom/booger the threads. That being said, if you can't pound them out, you might have to cut them out, and buy replacements.

Heat is great, soaking is great. Try putting a length of pipe over the shock mount itself and wiggling. There is a "D" flat that prevents rotation, but you can get some wiggle. Be careful you don't break the ears on the spindle support. If you do, you'll be replacing that too. Chuck

72ls5fla

Chuck ...

I have a question for you, since you have ben through the NCRS process a couple of times.

Besides the side exhaust, which I have completely replaced with all GM origianl parts (front to back) the car is really pretty much a survivor car.

I wanted to take the car and have it judged as a survivor. But I was thinking that since I'm under the car and it would be way easier to just buy an entire trailing arm assembly (with bearing, support etc..) or a reman .. wheel bearing assembly, would it mes up my chances for getting the car judged ??
Also, you think that if I POR-15 the frame that would hurt ???

It just kills me to put the thing back togeher with rusty parts !!!
With the arms out of the way I can get alot of painting and cleaning done..

Also ... thanks to ALL for the suggestions on getting the mounts out ...

Sincerely,

BIll

Chuck Gongloff

Hi Bill. Bowtie (NCRS term) and Survivor (Bloomington Gold term) imply an untouched original. ANYTHING you do to change or alter that originality will be a deduct. I've only once judged Bowtie. POR on the frame would be a serious hit. The new T Arm would take a hit. They want to see greasy, rusty, dirty, BUT original untouched items in all 4 area. They like to see untouched, unturned bolt heads. In other words, a car that hasn't been "messed with".

The four areas judged are Chassis, Mechanical (Engine compartment), Interior, and Exterior.

Many/most would look at a Survivor or Bowtie car and say "that would be a great car to restore" :)

Those classes are for historic documetation. How it "really was". That's why any change can and will hurt you. TOUGH decision for you..... Chuck

BTW... side exhaust were a 69 only option. They were never available during ANY other shark year, so the side pipes on your car never were "original" to your car.


[Modified by Chuck Gongloff, 11:10 AM 3/14/2004]

mapman

When you get the trailing arms off talk to Van Steel about the rebuild, they did a great job on mine and they should be able to make them "NCRS" style (I had mine powder coated).

I broke one of the "ears" off the bearing holder when I was beating on the shock mount - it WOULD NOT BUDGE!! (1980 Corvette)

I would afix a baggie around the shock mount bolt and fill it with brake fluid so that the shock mount bolt is submerged in brake fluid for a few days. The brake fluid will act as a penetrant. I heavily sprayed mine with PB Blaster for several days, etc, etc and it wasn't enough. The shock mount bolts are not that expensive in any case. The shock mount removal tools are a very good idea. You might want to get the Van Steel Suspension Video, it was a lot of help to me.

72ls5fla

Chuck,

I removed all the side exhaust from the car.

I put the correct (with tab) rocker moldings
GM welded stel/chrome tips
welded carbon steel exhaust system (front to rear)
correct clamps

NO STAINLESS ANYWHERE ....


Is my putting this exhaust on still going to hurt the judging ??

As far as trailing arms are concerned ... now that I have all this wonderfull info I am going to remove them, leave them old and greasy. Just have the new bearing put in and preloaded correctly.

I will use all the old bolts and nuts. I will however have to replace the cotter pins - they were so rusted that they brokw when I was taking them out.

I will not clean anything under the car (kills me to do this !!!).

Is there any way I could contact you and ask some NCRS questions of you ??
I have so many questions, I just don't know where to begin typing .. be easier to just ask ..
:)

Again .. Thanks to all for such great advice !!!!!

I know why I joined this forum and not others ..

Thanks

Bill

Chuck Gongloff

Hi Bill. I'm not the guy to ask about Bowtie. You should contact Terry McManmon. You can catch him on the NCRS board http://www.ncrs.org I believe that Terry is the National Team Leader for 70-72's. He can "set you straight", as I don't want to give you advice based on my minimal experience with Bowtie Judging. Chuck

72ls5fla

Chuck ..

Thanks for the info and contact ...
I greatly appreciate it.

Sincerely,

Bill

R 73 454

My weapon of choice is a air hammer! I put a spare nut loosely on end of threads, just in case it bounces too much. I use a blunted, point tip bit. If it is too pointed, it will leave a small dimple on end of shock mount. I also had success with a tie rod end puller! If they are really stuck, you'll need the heat and the air. A little anti-sieze will prevent this in future! :smash:

JBR

I did mine on the 78 last year. 2 nuts togather weled with a grade 8 bolt treaded into it then you thread it onto the mount. and start beating with a big azz hammer, spray it heat it and 6 hours later it came out. I have heard some come out quite easy. The 75 is next :U I will soak it for days before I start. :cheers:

adamdinat

My drivers side was stuck like this. I ended up taking the arm out with the strut still attached to move things along. Once out a couple of good wacks with a the back side of an ax broke it loose. (bubba or what?) Figure on ruining the shock mount and the removal tool. Being able to get a full swing at it make a big difference.

JBR

I just remembered when I did my nightmare. The day before I started I was using my recip saw and cutting 3/8" plate stock for my plow. The saw jumped out of the steel and went through my left hand (clear through). 10 stetches latter. Well the next day was not a good time to start such a project. :smash:

NHvette

Not the answer you want to hear ... but the problem you are up against
is that the inside sleeve of the strut rod bushing is rusted (fused) onto the
shock mount. I pounded/heated/oiled mine to no end.

You don't want to go here, but ... what worked for me was to cut the end of
the strut rod open, pry it open wider - and slipped it off the bushing.
Then, carefully - I ground at the inner sleeve until there was a slot down the
length. After that, I pryed it open and was able to push the mount out.

Well, that was the second one. The first mount was sacrificed by hammering.

A used set of strut rods would be cheaper than shock mounts.


Good luck, and be careful. :smash: :seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 3:24 PM 3/15/2004]

72ls5fla

well guys ... here is what I have decided to do ....

1. I am going to remove the strut rods and the mounting bracket under the rear all in one piece. I have removed the exhuast for clearance. I will smack out the mounts once I can get better leverage ...

2. I unbolted the spring from the trailing arms.

3. I will remove the spring from the rear cover, to make more clearance and to allow me to clean/paint under the car.

4. HERE IS WHERE I NEED SOME ADVICE.....

HOW DO I REMOVE THE BOLTS HOLDING THE ARMS INTO THE FRAME???
THEY SEEM STUCK ...

I have the castle nut removed..

ALL SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOMED !!!!!

AGAIN .... thanks to all suggestions ...

Bill

R 73 454

Holy smokes, why aren't you trying my air hammer idea, IT WORKS! If the trailing arm bolts are froze.... NOW you have a project! Torch time :mad

72ls5fla

hey R 73 ....

I have to take the arms out anyways ... the bushings are completely shot ...

So I figured I could deal with the mounts when the arms are outside the car and I can get a better angle on them ..

Then I will give 'em a good smack wth the 15# sledge !!!

I wonder if your suggestion for an air-hamer would work on the trailing arm nuts though ????

Bill