JeffReed

l'm working on (thinking about) getting my new 5-speed installed and was wondering if there's any benefit to installing a light-weight flywheel at the same time. I thought I read at one time that the reduced rotating mass would help acceleration, even though there's no change in HP/Torque. If its a good idea, any suggestions on brand names from those who already went down this path? Can I get the bell housing off while the engine is still in the car? I did everything on an engine stand a few years ago, so I'm a little short in the clue department on how that whole process works while its still in the car. Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks!!

Jeff

Gordonm

Having just done all that yes the bellhousing can come off without removing the engine. Everything can come out from the motor on back with the motor still in the car. The lightweight flywheel will increase acceleration but you lose inertia on initial take off. A motor with a lot of torque will be easier to drive with a light flywheel or you will have to keep the revs a little faster on take off with a light flywheel. It just takes some etting used to when driving a light weight flywheel. Any questions about the install let me know. I'll try and help.

GDaina

If you don't have a high hp/torque motor, stick with the steel wheel..the r's will really drop between shifts using the lighter wheel.

Chuck Harmon

This is one of the major reasons I prefer the light flywheel. My upshifts are about twice as quick without working the synchros. The fact that the engine also revvs so much more quickly, even in gear, makes the car a joy to drive.

The cars with the heaviest flywheels I think I have driven were the RX7's my brother owned. The rotary has almost zero torque at low speeds so they installed a very heavy flywheel to make pulling away from stop signs easier. It seemed to take forever for the revvs to drop down to where the next gear wanted to be on upshifts. Yes, I could have shifted faster, but I would have been working the synchros pretty hard.

Chuck

71'AirStrike

<smack> Id wish Id known this!
I just bought a new steel Fly wheel, and my iffy machanic stated "you dont want to go with an alum flywheel , it will warp in a heart beat. its only ment for pure race cars"

sigh well better luck nextime

chad

Fevre

but I bet you would like to do this to the guy who told you that:

Chuck Harmon

The small diameter factory L88 flywheel weighs about half the normal one and is made of steel. I used them on both my small block and my big block. I am now going with a dual disc McCleod pressure plate with aluminum flywheel. Haven't driven it yet, but I like the lighter pedal pressure compared to the 3200# pressure plates I have used for so many years.

Chuck

JeffReed

Gordonm, how difficult was the installation? The person who originally was to do the install (Tony's Corvette) did not return the instructions with the kit, so I can't look over their recommnedations. Keisler is sending me another copy...

I heard there's some type of alignment that's required in order to validate the warranty? Also, I did not receive a drive shaft...They said once I have everything installed I need to tell them the length and they would send one out the next day. Was this how it worked for you?

Thanks for the info!!

Gordonm

The alignment is for the bell housing. You need to indicate it so that it is not off center and this would cause the front bearing to wear and clutch problems. I did the alignment on mine and mine was withing .004. I lucked out. If it is off you need to knock out the dowel pins in the block and put in off set pins. Not a big deal but you should do this. I made my cross member removable and this made the job WAY easier. I don't know if I could have done it with the blow shield. Cutting the cross member is no big deal and I made up some brackets and it fits perfect and is easy to remove if and when needed. I bought my trans kit from a forum member here who decided to go a different way. The kit came with everything including the drive shaft. Mine fits perfect. I understand now they have you measure and then send the drive shaft. They must have had some problems with drive shaft length. The install was easy for me. I have had my Muncie out many times so it was just like changing any transmission. I have everything underneath all hooked up just have to get the console back together. By this weekend if the weather cooperates I should be on a shake down run with it. I'll let you know how it goes.

JeffReed

How do you measure the alignment?

Gordonm

You need a dial indicator and a magnetic base. You have to put the magnetic base on the flywheel or the crank and set the indicator so the tip is on the hole for the transmission. Rotate the crankshaft or flywheel all the way around and take your measurements at various points. They should be no more than .005 out. Obviously you have to have the bellhousing bolted up to the block. I did it with the flywheel on and put the base at the center of the flywheel. I just looked at the instructions and they give you a good picture of how it is done and a good explanation of the procedure. Also my Lakewood instructions give a pretty good set of instructions. This took the most time of all the steps. I wanted to make sure mine was correct so I did it about 3 different times. They all came out good for me.

JeffReed

hey guys... On the light-weight flywheel. I heard some downsides to a light-weight flywheel, but I'm wondering if there is a real seat-of-the-pants improvement to acceleration?? I would be willing to spend the money if it increased my 0-60 or 1/4 miles times or just felt quicker. I don't care about gas mileage and since I only drive 5k miles a year, would a light-weight really warp/wear out in 10 years?

Chuck, you said its a joy to drive... any more details on what that means?

Thanks!!


[Modified by JeffReed, 8:12 PM 3/10/2004]

Chuck Harmon

The engine is much more responsive because of quicker rev changes. Accelerating out of a corner is so much better. Extremely fast shifts without working the synchros. Double clutches are much quicker. Revving in neutral brings almost instant redline rpms, not 1-2-3 counts. It acts, sounds, and feels more like a race engine, not simply a loud engine.

Other than that, not much. :D

Chuck

p.s. Get the GM 153 tooth nodular iron flywheel with the appropriate clutch, pressure plate, and starter. It won't warp and should last as long as the much heavier 168 tooth version