76greg

Hi,

I have a 76 and I am having a hard time mounting new door panels. The panels have the black plastic backing, not like the fiber board orginals. My problem is getting the panel pushed down far enough to clear and center the lock **** stud in the hole in the door panel bezel for the lock ****. I did a search in recent and archives on this problem and a few have said you must trim some plastic or use a heat gun to adjust the new door panels, but I think that was for warped panels. No one was clear as what needed to be done. One member said he needed to grind out the lock **** hole to get it to work!
What do I do? Can I elongate the mounting holes on the lock ****/door handle release mechenism to allow it to move up to make this work?
All replies welcome and encourged!
Thanks in advance! :yesnod: Greg :cheers:

CF6873

I am very interested in this also as I will be ready to install my door panels soon. At first glance mine appear to have too much bow but I have not yet tried to attach them. I hope you get alot of good advice on the topic. Craig :cheers:

76greg

TTT, Anyone have any experience in this area? :rolleyes:

Garson

In a word, door panel replacement "sucks". I have done a couple sets and you must be ready to cut ,grind, and weld if necessry. The aftermarket has yet to figure out how to make door panels. Just take your time and try a heat gun to the back of the panel to help the fit. The last set I installed took me a couple of days and a relocation of the door pull weld nuts. I had to file the inside of the door latch opening to obtain enough clearance.

garson

R. Bruno

:iagree:
The problem with the panels is that the curve is wrong, that is why they are not "long enough". I had to cut away pieces of the backing to get it to bend. Also, the use of a heat gun (keep it away from the front of the panel!) will facilitate bending the panel to get a better fit. I know they seem like they will never work, but keep at it and don't operate under the impression that they will fit without "modifications" .

Corvette ED

I always have to enlarge the lock hole. Sometimes I have to file the door handle opening. The problem is that the door panels are not as deep on the backside as the originals.

CF6873

What did you use to cut away some of the backing? Thanks, Craig :flag

Frankenvette

I just got new door panels and have to install as well. I guess I should have known that they would not just bolt on. After reading this thread, I pulled the door panels out of the garage and moved them into the house. I'm hoping that installing them while they are warm...garage is very cold... will help them have some flex.

R. Bruno

What did you use to cut away some of the backing? Thanks, Craig :flag [/QUOTE]

I heated a utility knife, but it still wasn't easy - that stuff is think. I took small pieces - strips- just to get a little flex in the panel. Also use a heat gun to soften it and then bend it. Careful not to ruin the interior skin though!

76greg

I was able to elongate the mounting holes on the lock ****/door handle release mechanism that bolts to the door to allow it to move up so the lock **** could pass through the hole in the panel and be centered. I did this on one side last night and will try the other worse fitting panel tonight. Rattail file + vice + effort = fit. :D Also I had to enlarge the cutout in the plastic backing where the steel clips are slid in because they were not wide and deep enough to get the clip positioned correctly.

Greg :cheers:

trw

You guys are making me think twice about doing door panel skins instead of buying panels.

But both have downsides, heard skins are hard to get to stick to the orginal panel.

Terry

Chuck Gongloff

Al Knoch will make you door panels on the old original fiberboard if you ask him. Cost is ABOUT $100.00 more per set of two panels.

The plastic panels fit like boots on a rooster, and always have. Nothing has improved with them for the past decade or so. Most have trouble at the top where it slips/snaps over the "hooks".

The fit problem is why nice originals go for so much on EBAY or at flea markets. Chuck

LemansBlue68

Has anyone ever tried the Corvette America door panel skins? I'm curious as to how reskinning the original fiber board panels works out?....

CF6873

Chuck, My initial trial run indicates that mine will have trouble at the top as you mentioned. Do you have any suggestions to make them fit there? Thanks, Craig :cheers:

Chuck Gongloff

No help here with the fit problem. :) I've been involved with many of these, helping friends over the years. You can try a heat gun, and you can try bending the tangs on the top of the door. Many have problems around the window crank, and also around the "hole" where the door opening lever comes through. They're just plain "lousy" and have been for years.

People keep buying them. I have NO experience with the skins. Most of the time the cardboard/fiberboard backing is in such bad shape that this isn't an option for most. Hang in there. You're not alone. Check out C3's with repro panels and you'll see that virtually all have fit problems. Chuck

A78Corvette

I bought new door panels a few years ago for my car. I was suprised when I opened them and saw the cheap ABS plastic construction. The 1st set would not fit correctly. I was lucky that the vendor took them back. The 1st set had no metal at the top of the panel where it drops into the window. I ordered a second set from a different vendor that had the metal at the top that the GM panels had, but otherwise were ABS and the same as the 1st set. This did allow them to fit much better than the 1st set though. :conehead