kenko74

Both my 1974 Service Manual and my Haynes say to remove the front spring by supporting the control arm at the inner bushings with a jack, then remove the pivot arm nuts and bolts, and then slowly lower the lower control arm to remove the spring (with appropriate chain safety suggestions).

Thus the lower ball joints stay connected to the knuckle/spindle, and no further suspension disassembly is required (other than the stabilizer). Basically removing the spring from the inner side, instead of from the outer side.

Anyone ever try it this way? Is there enough range of movement in the lower ball joint to do it???? Sounds really easy! :crazy:

LiveandLetDrive

This is how I reassembled mine and it sucked, but only because I had to really play with it to line up the bolts. I wouldn't do it to take it off, as it is far less stable with only one point of connection.

-Chris

Twin_Turbo

What a stupid method, it's easier to remove the upper or lower nut on the spindle than to remove the cross shaft. 1 vs 3 fasteners. Just jack it up under the arm untill there's no tension on the upper arm, remove lower nut (or upper one, what you like) and after removal lower tha jack to release tension. The chain is a good idea though.

mrvette

YES, the safety chain is dearly impossible to ignore, with either method....nuff said just hearing some decades ago of one getting by a buddie's head he could hear it ring, and it bounced off every wall and floor in the shop...he was VERY lucky....

the taller, softer springs are the worst, they are the stock springs, the F41 and replacements of greater rate are shorter by about 4 inches or so....
the ball joint method leaves the springs under goodly tension, so when pried out of the lower pocket in the A arm, they snap with a vengence, I do not see getting them back in without a compressor on them....which is a PIA to deal with.....supposedly you can remove the A arm from the frame and get even the taller springs in there somehow, but after putting in the shock absorber as a retainer, but frankly without a lift I have never even tried that maneuver, and suspect it will not work well either in reality....

the shorter springs are much easier, but still a compressor is nice....

I use a stout 5/16 diameter welded link chain with a good 3/8 rockwell * bolt and nut for safety......better SAFE than sorry....
vette springs are wimpy, try it on an old GM B body, like an old Caddy one time and you will see what a manly spring is about...maybe a truck....

GENE

427V8

I agree the problem is getting the A-Arm bolts back in since the arm can and does move all over the place.

Drop the lower ball joint and slap a chain through it...

68raggtop

:iagree: That's how I removed mine. I hade the engine already out so I couldn't compress the spring by jacking the A arm up. :thumbs:

GDaina

just saw the ultimate spring compressor...air powered...slide two jaws into the coils and hit the foot control, voila, spring is compressed....only costs 230 bucks