Mr.Gearhead

Hi all-
I was welding my exhaust to my header collectors and notice that my clutch fork was sorta loose. (Remember.... my body is still off the frame so I am welding from above... ) It has about 1 inch play going back and forth. I removed the fork rubber boot and looked into the housing. There is some play around the clutch ball. Is this normal? I am assuming the clutch return spring will take out this play...? Also, I tried applying pressure to the clutch rod assembly to see if I could push on the finger of the clutch... I can't move it... is this normal? I just want to make sure I installed everything correctly before I put the body on the frame. ANY help of suggestions would be great.

Almost there... picked up the 2 1/2 "flat" exhaust from ZIP today. Real nice fit. HACKED up the primary tubes to mate to the Dynomax headers... but came up short... can't make it work. So..... going to the suppliers tomorrow to get 45* elbows to make things easier. Also, radiator support repair went awesome. A used and smashed 82 support- cut the top off- cut the bottom off my rusted out 70- welded the halves together... LOOKS SWEET and saved some dough$$$...

Mr.Gearhead

ahhhhhh... no replies.... I would hate to remove the trans after the body is on... Anyone a trans experts here? Should I be concerned with the play on the clutch fork?

GTR1999

Did you remove the fork? there is a clip on hte end that fits in the groove of the throw out bearing. There is play there and at the ball stud but the ball stud should be radius smooth. You might just be feeling the free play you would have in the pedal. Are you using a stock type diaphram clutch or an aftermarket type?
I'm also curious to see how your exhaust comes out. Did the 45* pipes work and where did you get them?
Thanks,
Gary

Doc Rebuild

test ttt

theandies

This “U” clip is riveted on the fork and one of the teeth can brake off. This will make the fork loose also. I had this break on mine. The only way I knew about it was when I had the Engine/tranny out. You should be able to get a mirror and flashlight to inspect inside the bell housing to see is anything is broken.

djcwardog

I am not quite sure I follow you - is the tranny in with a clutch installed? If so you should not be getting play in the fork. It should move freely (as it slides your throwout bearing along the tranny's input shaft), right up until it presses the throwout bearing up aginst the fingers of your clutch. It should not be "sorta loose." These parts do wear - I replaced all mine when I rebuilt my tranny. A new fork is about $40, the "ball stud" - which you screw in the bell housing to accept the fork - is about $15. Get those plus a new rubber boot and you should be set. Also be sure you have both springs to reinstall on the linkage after you put the clutch cross-shaft back in place. I would certainly check this out now while your body is off the frame. Pulling that tranny off should be a breeze!

Mr.Gearhead

Just finished working on the car... Exhaust is turning out real nice. The flat pipes from ZIP are sure to keep my tail from dragging...

Okay, onto the clutch fork question. First, motor and trans are on the frame. New clutch assem. installed. The play I write about is the forward and backward movement of the throwout bearing. The fork itself is actually good, I didn't exactly communicate this at first. My BIG issue is that I cannot move the fingers in when I apply pressure to the cross shaft. I put my foot on it and pushed as much as I could... I didn't feel the clutch move at all??? Is this normal? I know the clutch pedal is connected to the push rod... but damn... how much leverage does it offer? I don't want to drop the body only to find out I installed something incorrectly on the clutch??!!!!

The 45* elbows can be purchased from JCWhitney. Get the aluminized version... they like to be ceramic coated..... :D :yawn: :leaving:

GTR1999

It does take some force to move the fingers it sounds like you're ok.

Are the 45* pipe mandrel bent?

ZIP has some great stuff,those pipes are good. Also their vacuum lines are great,I have a set and haven't seen a better set on the market. Plus they give us a discount!

Gary

theandies

Throw out bearing backwards?:confused: OR Not installed correctly on the fork? :confused: I think if you are using your foot to press on the cross shaft you should be able to engage the clutch.......something is not right IMO. Now is the time to make sure before the body is on. :yesnod:

V8yunkie

To move the clutch by hand like you describe in fact is kind of hard to do. It is much easier with pedals and your leg.

One thing to pay attention to however is the throw-out bearing: Is that one especially made for corvettes (i.e. the clutch kit was a Corvette-kit, not any kit for a Chevy with appropriate spline and diameter)?.

Corvette needs a 1/2 inch shorter (flatter) bearing - if the bearing is too high, the linkage (cross-shaft) will be in a wrong "starting" position with reduced leverage. Check: The lever on the cross-shaft (z-bar) on the engine side should point straight down (6 o'clock position). If it is in 7 o'clock or further to the front of the vehicle, the bearing is too high.

Not only is the leverage bad, but the clutch will not last as long as the fork cannot move as far to the back of the bellhousing (which is has to when the clutch disc gets thinner over time).

Regards,
Thomas

Mr.Gearhead

Thanks Tom- I removed the transmission and couldn't find any issues with the assembly. However, I did find the high torque starter to be out of alignment. The starter gear was actually going to hit the back of the flywheel. Although an easy fix (just move to the other mounting holes) it was a better catch now than when I tried to fire up the motor for the first time. I will get a throw out bearing from ZIP... just to be sure! THANKS :seeya

Mr.Gearhead

Okay... I measure the thickness of the throw out bearing... it is 1 1/4". Is this correct? Is it too thick? How thick is the stock one if this is incorrect??? :confused:

Mr.Gearhead

To end this damn thread once and for all....

I called ZIP a minute ago and Paul measured a release bearing they had in stock. It was 1 1/4"... so it seems as if my original setup was correct and I did not have to remove the trans :mad or the headers to get to the motor mount bolts.. :mad or the fuel pump so I could reach the bolt :mad or assemble the engine hoist for support... :mad MORAL OF THIS THREAD... buy the damn parts from a Corvette supplier if you don't know what the hell you are doing.... I swear a Corvette rebuild is a true test of patience and problem solving .....