rponfick

I recall threads mentioning tranny yokes available that have bolt in u-joints vs. having u-joints pressed in place as provided in the Keisler kit. I ran a forum search, but couldn't find the proper comments. Is there one available that will bolt in using 26 spline and no hybrid u-joint work (ie, same u-joints as stock driveshaft)? I thought I found one from Mark Williams, but no such luck. I think Zwede mentioned one that Summit carries, but I am not sure which one. Any help would be appreciated. :cheers:

Gordonm

I can't help you with that but I just installed my drive shaft with the yoke provided by Keisler. It was not that bad. I used a large C clamp and the caps went in pretty easy. I thought this was going to be a real pain to do but it was not bad and beats the 200+ dollar take apart yokes I have seen. I did drop the rear of the tranny down slightly to gain a little more room (removeable cross member helps) but I could have gotten it in without it.

rponfick

I think I got confused on my spline count. 26 is for the clutch disc, the output shaft is 31. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks Gordonm for your comments. My big worry is not getting the driveshaft in, but getting it out later for whatever reason. I'm not sure you can get the driveshaft out without somehow pressing out some u-joints.

zwede

The TKO uses a Ford C6 yoke. Our driveshafts are 1330. Mark Williams has a take-apart C6 yoke that uses a 1350 U-joint. This is what I'm using and I just had to get a 1330-1350 U-joint which is readily available at most autoparts stores.

Summit carries a Moser brand yoke that might work.

stinky

Isn't this what you need:
http://emporium.markwilliams.com/pro...sp?prodid=1185

zwede

Yep, that's what I'm using. Pricey, byt the quality is top notch.

Marks69BB

You'll need a C6 take-apart yoke from a 80s lincoln. Call your local driveshaft shop and they will fix you up for about $50. You'll need to take the yoke you got with the Keisler kit so he can cut down the lincoln yoke to the correct length and also the Keisler driveshaft with you since you'll need the 1330/1350 u-joint mentioned above installed to use the lincoln yoke. :cheers:


[Modified by Marks69BB, 9:30 PM 3/4/2004]


[Modified by Marks69BB, 9:34 PM 3/4/2004]

OkeeGuy

i thought it was gonna suck too but it isnt hard at all to deal with...
i just used a 6 inch C clamp to press it in and it went in really easy...

to remove it i simply made a tool from another clamp and a socket welded to it...
i dont remember the size of the socket but it has to be just big enough for the end cap to go into easily...
weld it onto the clamp as shown in the pic below and removing it is as easy as puttin it in!
you may also have to grind down the "pushing" end of the clamp so that it fits inside of the yoke in order for it to push the ujoint out thru...

it works great! its not a big deal at all :D




[Modified by SIGNGUY, 6:25 AM 3/5/2004]

Rbbmoose427

Timely post - I spent an hour or so installing my driveshaft yesterday - I ended up doing it twice as Keisler sent the wrong size U-Joint for the rear and I didn't notice until I installed it the first time.

I bought a U-Joint press for the second try, but did it with a C-Clamp first. It isn't too bad you just need to make sure the needle bearings stay in place as you press the caps in...

Ray

Eddie 70

I pressed mine in and then had to redo it because of the rollers in the rear bearing had fallen over and messed the whole install up for me. Not too bad of a job. I thought it was gonna be a bear. After I priced the yoke mentioned above, I went ahead and pressed that dude in there.

Rbbmoose427

Yup Eddy - been there, done that. It would seem somebody could design a u-joint where the bearings would stay in place. If we can put a man on the moon we ought to be able to do that.

Ray

rponfick

Well guys, thanks for the comments. I bit the bullet today and stopped by Mark Williams shop and picked up one of their Rapid Release Transmission yokes (part no. 39120). Finding a 1330-1350 u-joint was a little more trouble. I love to go to Checker or Auto Zone and they just get that funny look on their face. If you don't stick with the proper parts for you year/make, they are lost. The Mark Williams salesman was finally able to tell me what I needed: Spicer 5-648X, but I had to get it at another driveline shop.

Mark69BB - I tried to find a driveshaft shop that knew about your suggestion about a C6 take-apart yoke from an 80's Lincoln. We must have a shortage of good driveline shops in the Denver area because I got the same response as I got at Checkers and Auto Zone. They kept saying the old Lincolns used constant velocity joints that would be hard to adapt to a vette.

If any of you are considering this route, I thought I'd give you the part numbers and save you some time. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

stinky

Thanks for the neat idea, Signguy, I think I'll make use of this one.

lostpatrolman

So "rapid release" transmission yokes arent standard on C3s? I just removed my driveshaft from my 69 to replace all the u-joints and the yoke looked very similar to that rapid release one except the wimpy thin caps... Is that aftermarket? The trans is a M20.

zwede

Yes, they are standard on C3's, but the C3 yoke from a M20 or TH400 won't fit a Tremec TKO. The TKO uses a Ford C6 yoke.