foundvettelifeisgood

While I've got the steering off, I'd like to replace my dented oil pan. Where is the oil pump? What's the pick-up? Are these in the pan and get swapped into the new pan?

:smash:

Paul L

The oil pump is bolted onto the rear main bearing cap.






[Modified by paul67, 10:21 PM 10/20/2003]

OldSchool

Can you drop the pan with the engine still bolted in? Or do you have to lift the engine off it's mounts?i :crazy:

Fevre

You have to use a pickle fork tool and detach the linkage from the idler arm, then the pan can be dropped and removed with the eng in the car.

Jughead

The pick up is the flat circular shaped part with a tube attached in the pictures Paul posted. It should sit about 3/8-1/2 inch from the bottom of the pan. The tube inserts into the pump. It picks-up (sucks) oil from the pan caused by the rotation of the baldes in the pump. Replacing the pump and pickup isn't necessary when you replace the pan/gasket but a lot of guys will----another while I'm at it jobs. Depends on how many miles are on the engine.

If you're just replacing the pan, there's no need to touch the pump or pickup. Stay away from the chrome pans...there have been many complaining about getting a good seal with them. :chevy

foundvettelifeisgood

Great pictures paul. :cheers: What drives the pump? Is there a rod off the crank?

Len--How'd you know I was going to get a chrome pan? :lol: Isn't a chrome pan like all the others only chromed? Does the chroming process warp them? What do you suggest instead? :smash:

GDaina

Cam drives the distributor, that in turn drives the oil pump via a rod

Paul L

In the first pic you can see the rod/shaft that George is referring to (at the top). What that pic does not show is the nylon (or aftermarket) bushing that encapsulates the shaft/pump joint. I almost forgot it when this job was done but we backtracked. It seems that you have a 1972 you will not have to worry about the front Y-pipe found on cars with cat cons. For readers with 20-year-old exhaust manifold studs, take several deep breaths before jumping into that job.



Here is the steering linkage drop.



This is the nylon shaft bushing/sleeve to keep the oil pump/distributor shaft junction in place. At about $1.00 from GM it is cheap insurance. Some have been critical of the GM part but it did not fail me.



And of course while you are there why not...the list goes on!




[Modified by paul67, 7:10 PM 10/21/2003]


[Modified by paul67, 7:25 PM 10/21/2003]


[Modified by paul67, 7:28 PM 10/21/2003]

MYPET70

A great run of pics and sharing of lessons learned. I'd add you may get away with removing the two bolts that fasten the idler arm to the frame as opposed to pickle forking off the cross arm.

Jughead

Great pics Paul, glad you're still around.

I don't know why the chrome pans don't seal well. They sure look nice. I was directed away from them and since have seen posts here and other forums complaining about the problem getting them to seal properly. Mostly on SB's too.

When I did my search for my BB pan I narrowed it down to Milodon and Moroso. A lot of both used here on the forum. Here's the one I'd get for my SB. It's very similar to the one I'm using on the 454. The only problem for me replacing a pan with the engine still in the car is that I hate working upside down with that many bolts! :lol:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=MOR%2D20191





[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 4:38 AM 10/22/2003]

Edzred72

You might also consider the one piece Felpro oil pan gasket. Easy to install, re-useable, and practically eliminates leaks from those pesky corners that tend to leak with the standard 4 piece gasket set.
Eddie

foundvettelifeisgood

Won't this :cool: deeper pan require a different pick-up arrangement? :confused: