73sbvert

Hey folks, has anybody converted their mech. clutch linkage to hydraulic?

What all is involved (besides the obvious master/slave cyl purchase, etc.) :D

Any changes to bellhousing, firewall, machining? Can this be done fairly easily? Pics would be a great help if you can!

Thanks for any input!
Paul


[Modified by 73sbvert, 3:25 PM 10/17/2003]

Twin_Turbo

Are you considering a hydr. throw out bearing?

73sbvert

Actually no, but I just realized (DOH!) that the headers I just bought will not clear the Z-bar! I have driven/worked on hyd. clutches before, and know that they are more versatile in application, but not enough to know if it can be retrofitted into this car!

I didn't think about that though, change the actuator rod from the pedal into a master cyl, take out the whole Z-bar, pushrod, lever and replace all with just a hyd. throwout bearing, is that right? Instead of the lever sticking out of the bellhousing, just 2 hoses will be coming out, yes?

Hmmmm, any (fairly inexpensive) suggestions on where to get a retrofit system like that?

Thanks TT!
Paul

71'AirStrike

TTT Im looking at this as an option to.

chad

Twin_Turbo

What transmission do you have?? There are several hydraulic throwout bearings setups on the market, check them out, chances are there's one that will fit just fine. No more clutch linkage, hurrah :)

73sbvert

Originally had a Muncie, but PO changed it out for Super T-10. I believe the bellhousing is the same however.

I don't know the make of the clutch either, but I'll bet it's NOT a Centerforce! :lol:

Any places to start looking? Any idea of cost window I'm looking at?

Thanks again TT!! Sure appreciate your help!
Paul

71'AirStrike

what is the pro/con with the throw out bering vs. a hydro ram that is connected to the bell housing ( ive seen that on some chevy trucks)?

thx
chad

Twin_Turbo

Most production cars have a hydraulic ram operated release fork if the system is hydraulic, it's the same as a mech. setup only you eliminate the linkage.

The hydraulic throwout bearing in essence is the same but it deletes the fork, instead of the fork moving the bearing the bearing itself is a small hydraulic ram.

Pro's: simplicity, easy to install & set up, no slave cylinder needed, easier to set up for a multiple plate system

Cons, price, but it's cheaper than a hydr. system that still uses a release fork since you won't need a slave cylinder like those do.

You will have to drill holes though.
As for where to get, if they're not listed here they will probably not be available.
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=315

Gameshow Bob

I converted to a hydraulic clutch system for the T56 swap. Here are some more details, scroll down to "Clutch":
http://corvetteforum.net/c3/gameshowbob/swap4.html

BB wowbagger

I know of several cars that have done this with a Saab hydralic setup.Works really well.Some modding required,but thats the rule of the game :cheers: :smash: :cheers:

BB73Chris

I believe it was Norval who said that a 85 1 Ton master cylinder will bolt to where the rubber boot over the linkage is now on the firewall. I looked at mine, and it seems even auto cars have this hole with a little plate over it.

DaveL82

I just bought a used setup from a guy on this forum. It uses the hydraulic throw out bearing and GM truck master cylinder.

As an FYI I did a conversion on my old International Scout which used to be an automatic with no where to mount the slave cylinder to the engine or belhousing. This is what I used:

1) I used a Tilton clutch pedal assy, but for the vette just use the stock pedal setup and make a new rod to the master cylinder.
2) For the master cylinder I used the Tilton one, but for the vette use a mid 80's GM truck unit.
3) For the slave cylinder I used a Wilwood unit available from Summit Racing. The unit costs about $50.00 and is a pull type!! This means you can use the stock clutch fork but use the slave cylinder to pull the fork instead of pushing. This means you only have to fix one end to a bolt on the rear of the transmission. This is very simple to do. To attach to the clutch fork just drill two holes through the fork and then insert a pin available for the Hardware store. The Wilwood unit comes with a rod end (heim joint) on one end (fork end) and a threaded rod on the other.

Give it a try.

dave

norvalwilhelm

I went hydraulic clutch 3 years ago. I bought a bellhousing from a one ton truck with the slave cylinder on the side. Any camaro bellhousing would work and buy the master cylinder from a 85 one ton truck. The clutch master cylinder bolts right to our firewall without any drilling. The hole where the mechanical rod passes through is where this 85 one tone truck master bolts to and even the mounting holes are already drilled. YOu also need a remote resovoir and a piece of brake line.
I could never see the old mechanical linkages that bind when the motor torques over.
So you need a different bellhousing with a slave cylinder to match the bellhousing, a slave cylinder and the 85 one ton master cylinder, a resovoir and a piece of brake line.
Very easy swap. The linkage on the clutch master needs a little work, shortening and threading but an easy task.

bob

I use a Howe hydraulic throw out on my camaro and a friend has the same in a camino, both with small blocks and super t-10's. One with a scatter shield and one with a stock chevy bellhousing. We both use tilton master cylinders with one on the firewall and one on a floor mount. You can get the goods at summit. Make sure you get the throwout for a stock style clutch and not for a multi disk. The tilton master comes with a remote and plug on resevoir.
bob


[Modified by bob, 4:19 PM 10/18/2003]


[Modified by bob, 4:20 PM 10/18/2003]


[Modified by bob, 7:40 PM 10/18/2003]