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'79 ALARM

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Old 10-15-2003, 11:09 PM
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BacaBill
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Default '79 ALARM

My '79 starts to "honk" after I turn the key to the lock position. Is there a secret to the setting of the alam? It will shut off after I turn the key partly to the unlock position, but then I don't know if it's still armed. Anyone? Thanx,
Bill
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Old 10-15-2003, 11:54 PM
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wombvette
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Default Re: '79 ALARM (BacaBill)

One of the tampering sensors is probably tripped causing it to alarm immediately after setting.
Old 10-16-2003, 05:02 PM
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MN-Brent
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Default Re: '79 ALARM (BacaBill)

In my 82, the alarm is set by hitting the power door lock and it is tripped if you open the door without a key, such as if you smashed a window and pulled the manual door lock **** out-like a car-thief might do.

If alarm is tripped, you need to use the door key on the door lock outside and turn it clockwise (unlock) to the end of travel and then turn it counterclockwise to the end of travel (do not lock it again though) and back to the middle to remove key.

or

If alarm is not tripped, you can turn ignition key to ON and then back to LOCK.

Then your car alarm is deactivated.

Putting your key into the ignition and turning will not deactivate the tripped alarm. In the 82s there is a starter interupt and you will go nowhere until the alarm is deactivated.

If your key lock mechanism is old and the electrical contact is worn, you might not have the alarm deactiveted properly by using the door key. You might find that the driver side door doesn't deactivate the alarm but the passenger side door does. This may be due to the fact that the key is rarely used on the passenger door lock and therefore never received any wear and tear.

Brent...
Old 10-17-2003, 08:11 AM
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wbarkley
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Default Re: '79 ALARM (BacaBill)

The '79 system is pretty simple, I just got through troubleshooting mine (without power locks). If the horn is honking, then one of the 5 triggers is tripped. The easy ones to rule out are the door switches. They are the same ones that turn on the interior lights so if the lights are off, then those switches are open like they should be.

The next two are the t-top switches. These are located at the rear of each top, where the locking pin engages to the body. Access to the wires is gained by removing the trim pieces on the body that are above your head. Mine were pretty worn from age, but I was able to get the contacts to open like they should.

The last trigger is the hood switch that is located on the passenger side, near the firewall and is opened when the hood closes. I still have trouble with this one as the entire switch pushes through the bracket sometimes.

A good wiring diagram is at http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index24.shtml The '78 circuit is identical to the '79.

Good luck!

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