69Sting

I just blew a head gasket so time to tear down the top of the motor. No big deal as I was planning on replacing the intake anyway so now I just need to go a little further.

Anyway, I have the 350/350 so I have the L46 heads (I beleive). Since I currently have to run a lead additive I thought I would get a valve job done since the heads would be off the motor.

When I bring them in to get done is there anything I should make sure I do or keep away from doing? Not formilar with the workings except they mix the air and fuel in the cylinder. :cheers:

Lt1er

Pull of the valve cover and near the middle of the casting it will give you some numbers, the most important are the last three. Yours would probably be 461 or 462.

I can give a better suggestion if I or even anybody else knew these head numbers.

LOTAHP

How much are looking to spend ??? And do you want more perfomance than you already have???

69Sting

Heads = GM35, 3827186, 1 16 8

Hear are my numbers from the heads. L46 heads.

As far as $$$ and what I want from them...

I don't have a grand to spend on them but I know I will have to spend at least $200 for a valve job. I can go to $500 so not a lot of cash. I mainly just want to make sure they are solid, 80% is normal road and 20% will be road schools. I have 336 rear so my off line is crappy.

I have a Holly 650 dp spreadbore ready to go, and will be putting on an Edelbrock proformer RPM intake.

PRESSURERAT

I think that should be 3927186. I would get a valve job and some new springs. I think you would be happy.

Lt1er

186 casting are good later model double humps. that's what I'm running right now. I had mine race ported, polished screw in studs and guide plates, 2.02/1.60 manley race flow valves with a 4-5 angle valve job, angle milled surfaced to just under a true 64 cc after the chamber polishing, 10 degree locks with bigger springs and chromoly retainers.

I wasted allot of money on mine. It's not worth it in these days of mail order heads, but I did them up about 12 years ago.

The first thing you want to do is have a shop test them for hair line cracks near the exhaust. If they check out good have them blown apart & hot tanked. Ask about pocket porting and tell them you want race flow valves. they have the thinner stem down by the valve head for more flow.

If yours has the OEM rotators throw them in the dumpster and get springs with chromemoly retainers. Have them surfaced. Just price it out. :thumbs:

LOTAHP

A "competition valve job" would do you fine. A slight step up from stock and you'll be able to run unleaded gas and get little more performance which might possibly get you better gas mileage, believe it or not. Slightly stronger springs than stock which would give you longer life (the heads not you). Don't let the word competition scare you. But you should get all this plus a couple of other things in a "copetition valve job" but make sure and check around, it will vary depending on the machine shop.

Fevre

Might want to look for used heads (iron or alum), might even find a set on the forum, try the c4 section too. Alum will decrease your chances of detonation with your stock 11:1 comp.

69Sting

As usually great advise. I will consider it all when I go price compairing.

What is the going price for just another set of Heads that would be 'better' than what I have even after getting the compitition valve job done.

This way I would have something to compair to. Aluminum heads sounds good and I know would save weight but if costly I will just work what I have.

Would roller rockers be a good thing or a waiste of money since I wouldn't have a roller cam?

LOTAHP

Definitly a great idea. But didn't see the pic of the '69 at first. Just noticed it and a car that looks that good needs to remove whatever he has inside those sidepipes and build some HP. (just kidding, sort of) Awesome looking car. :thumbs: :cheers: