Spook

Hey guys...

Just about ready for the first start and break in of my new ZZ4. Wondering what you may have to say? Also wondering if anyone thinks I should start off with any oil additives like prolong or zmax or the like... ? What do you all think about that in a brand new motor?

Spook
:reddevil

zwede

Do NOT use any additives. Use a good quality conventional oil, 10W-30. Change it at 200, 500, 1000 and then at regular intervals. Switch to a fully synthetic at 10k miles.

PRESSURERAT

DONT use any additives!!!!! I use straight 30 weight to break in my engines but a multi grade will work also as stated above.

zwede

I can see 30W for initial cam break-in, as long as the engine has been thoroughly pre-oiled. I would be hesitent to use 30W after the intial break-in due to it taking too long to reach the rocker arms during a cold start. I ruined a rocker arm + pushrod with 20W-50 due to it taking too long to flow. However, the ZZ4 has a roller cam which does not require initial break-in, so I'd go straight to 10W-30. But of course there's more than one way to skin a cat... :yesnod:

vettery

GM has what they call Engine Oil Suppliment to be added to the crankcase for engine break-in, but I think it was intended primarily for the cam and lifters of flat tappet cams. What would it hurt though? If your like me, the oil that's in it a start-up, gets changed real quickly!

Ryan77

My new 383 which is waiting to be installed has a roller cam also. Do all roller cams not require a break-in or is it just the particular cam that the ZZ4 uses :confused:

zwede

Roller cams require no break-in, so no need for the 20 minutes @ 2000 rpm routine. Just start it up and drive. It is recommended to drive the first 30 minutes or so at varying rpms and loads to seat the rings. Don't hammer on it the first 500 miles. That's it.

Ryan77

Thanks Zwede, I'm glad this thread came up or else I would have wasted 20 minutes for nothing :cheers:

joeveto

No Additives! They're snake oil!

And no synthetic, not during break-in or for the first 500 miles (at least). Your piston rings need time to seat, first.

7T9Shark

I used the GM Engine Oil Supplement for my cam break-in. Was recommended by my machinist. Do not pour it directly into the engine. It needs to be pre-mixed with oil first. Drain after cam break-in.

boredsoIstrokedit

EOS is great stuff. No break in needed for roller, either. You CAN use synthetic in roller startup, too. GM and MANY others use it for the factory fill. The only reason I wouldn't is that it is to expensive for oil that is in there for such a short duration. The only other thing that I have heard it can cause problems is with distributor gear break in. So skip they synthetic on break in. :cheers: