buchinsd

I have a 1981 vette with a 1978 L-48 engine. All the emissions equipment has been removed, except the CC and the computer is not connected. The engine runs pretty good considering, but I want to replace it and get more HP. I do not have to worry about emission testing for several years at least, so that's not an immediate concern in a new engine.

I have read some posts about AR Racing's engines and everyone who has one is pretty satisfied. I have also read that the best replacement engine is the crate ZZ4. I know the ZZ4 is more expensive, but is it worth it. I want an engine that I can use in my daily driver if that means a different choice in engine...so I need some help choosing a good match.

Any insight or words of wisdom is appreciated.

Steve

tshort

I'm sure AR could build you anything but generally they're more performance orientated. If you're just looking for a nice daily driver engine then the ZZ4 might be best for you.

Sigforty

The ZZ4 is more expensive, but it also has a roller cam. There is nothing like the smooth idle a roller cam helps provide. I really like my ZZ4 and would do it again anyday.

theandies

I don't know about AR Racing engines but the ZZ4 has all new components. I'm sure AR can build you a daily driver engine but I agree with the above statement......."I really like my ZZ4 and would do it again any day." It’s a great street engine especially for a daily drive IMO.

GrandSportC3

All components on my AR engine except the block were new when I got it...

Fevre

How is your stock low end? You could get a nice daily driving eng with plenty of hp for about $1,000 using your stock low end. Get some Vortec heads along with matching intake and a good cam. No reason to buy a whole eng when you can make a better one using you stock low end. The Vortec heads will increase compression and they flow great to about .500 lift, only good to about .480 in stock configuration though. I think people are a little too quick to yank their stock eng and drop in a crate eng. If your rings are sealing properly with no other issues then a head and cam swap will wake that puppy up. I bought a base GM 350 crate eng (my eng blew a piston) and then slapped a set of Trick flow alum heads with a healthy roller cam in it and it ran like the dickens, about 375 hp. See no reason you could not get 300+ hp for under $1,000.

Just something to think about.

buchinsd

Fevre,

Thanks for your bringing up using my existing lower end. I believe it is in good shape, as it does not burn oil. I get a little blow-by when it starts up, but I think that's a valve seal???

There is a shop in Charlotte that works on Corvette's and was recommeneded by a local Corvette Club. I think I will take it to them and get some recommendations also.

Steve

buchinsd

GrandSport,

Do you remember what the AR engine cost you? How much is installation, or did you do it yourself?

Thanks,

Steve

tshort

Steve,
AR can build a nice daily driver for you, in the 350-450hp range for under $3K. My only complaint with AR is that they aren't local to me. Mark stands behind his engines 100% but believe me, if there's a problem, it's a hassle pulling it, crating it up and shipping it back to Virginia. If AR was in Houston I wouldn't even consider a ZZ4. Although in the end, the clear choice for me was AR. But going down to my local GM dealer and picking up an engine is certainly a nice thing.

GrandSportC3

The engine was $2995 (383/465 HP Stroker engine with Dart Iron Eagle 215cc heads and custom solid cam)
I had the engine installed together with my Tremec TKO transmission (custom install) and payed quite a bit.. However - my mechanich usually charges $700 to pull the old engine and install a new one...
You will need a flywheel or flexplate for the engine because it doesn't come with it.. That's the only additional expense... You might wanna change the carb with a stronger engine...

buchinsd

Thanks guys. I think I will let the shop look at my engine to determine if I can use it before going the route of replacement.

Steve

Fevre

BTW A set of true duals will def help, headers will do even more with the dual set up. All the extra things add up, believe I know. :)

buchinsd

Fevre,

I also will be doing exhaust work. Since the engine is a 1978, it has cast iron manifolds and not what came on the 81's. Should I replace the exhaust manifolds with headers, then go with true dual exhaust, or keep the 2-1-2 intact? I thought I could go with a high-flow cat and new mufflers. How much extra hp do you think this would give me?

Thanks,
Steve

GrandSportC3

I gained over 15 RWHP by removing some of the least restrictive baffles from my exhaust.... I'm running open side exhaust.. (1 7/8 headers and 4 inch pipes)

Fevre

I would def go with true duals if you do not have emmission testing, if you do a good cat is in order. The rams horns actually flow very well for being a cast iron manifold so if cost is a factor I would go the dual route first then headers later, you can patch them in pretty easy. Get the 2 1/2" version of the true duals, no sense limiting future mods. You can buy the pipes from a corvette vendor or have a mom and pop shop fab them, a chain outfit prolly won't since your car did not come with them. Some times it is nice to work in stages, do the eng first (crate or head/cam swap) then see how it runs, add the true duals and see how it runs etc. best to plan the mods together so you can get matching componants.

BSeery

Personally I would either build up the engine you have with a new cam, heads, intake and exhaust, or go to a ZZ4.
The AR motors are more BANG for the buck, but for a daily driver you can't beat the reliability and smooth running power of a ZZ4.
Something to think about also, I have never heard anyone ever complain about a ZZ4 engine. No parts failure, poor performance or wanting to yank it back out. That's more than I can say for other engines from other builders.

GrandSportC3

So far - I had 8000 trouble free miles with my AR engine... Very reliable...

Stoge

And that includes quite a bit of passes down the track too.

Marc80

I just had my AR racing engine dyno'd. Discussed in another post a few minutes back (that I started). On one hand I wish I had more hp but on the other hand ....what the hell for? It is a beast at 280 rearwheel hp and 3000lbs. So still a good value in my opininon.

GrandSportC3

Only about 50 passes with that engine... Lot's of things on the car broke when racing... but neither the engine nor transmission...