midwest-vette

I've read some of the papers on column removal and I'll have the column out today. The problem is that the switch rod is not moving or just barely moves sometimes in the ignition switch end when the key is turned. I can see through the signal side of the column through a small gap what looks like a broken piece of metal sliding around when the key is turned. It appears to be connected to the rod in some way. It's on a 76 tele/tilt column.

Is this something that can be repaired? If not, I have a vette shop about 40 minutes away that could probably do the work. How much would something like this cost? I know it's hard to guesstimate but a $$ range would help me decide if it's something I should try myself.

How about a difficulty rating?

Thanks in advance! :smash:

Jim Shea

You didn't mention if you had a standard (non-adjustable) column or a T&T. The instructions for disassembling the steering column are a bit difference although the malfunction that you describe probably one of three components: a broken actuator rack; the ignition switch actuator rod; and/or the plastic sector. These three components are named the same but are different from a standard to a T&T column.

If you are already familiar with my papers that are posted at http://www.corvettefaq.com in the Steering section. You will have to work your way to Paper and Pic #3 in the Std column or the T&T column sections.

You should be able to disasemble the column yourself and then visually determine what part (or parts) need replacing. The hard part may be in locating replacement parts. Let me know what year and type of steering column. Also what part(s) need replacing and I can try and search for a source.

Jim Shea


[Modified by Jim Shea, 3:25 PM 10/6/2003]

midwest-vette

Thanks for the quick reply Jim.

The column is from a 76, it's a tilt and telescopic. I'll hopefully have the column disassembled tonight or at least out of the car then I'll shoot you a reply back about what parts is may need. (I'll print out your papers to see what might be the problem).

Thanks again! :seeya

Jim Shea

When I look in Zip Products 1-800-962-9632 latest catalogue (page 210) I find the following:

SC-433 Ignition Lock Rack & Rod Kit $36.50

There is a picture in the catalogue that is entitled Ignition Rack Kit which shows a rack, a plastic sector gear, the spring and screw that rotates the sector, and some bearings.

So although the SC-433 is called an Ignition Lock Rack and Rod there is no rod in the picture. I would suggest you call them and find out exactly what is in the kit.

In the Ecklers' catalogue 1-800-327-4868 there is the following:

69-74 Rack, Ign Switch Actuator w/Rod 40719 $37.99

69-76 Gear, Ign Switch Actuator 41252 $12.99

There are no pictures but these two items sound about what you will require. Even though the 40719 kit says 69-74 in the catalogue, I am 99.9% sure that it will fit the 1975 and 1976 columns as well.

Hope these help.

Jim Shea

midwest-vette

Jim - that info is above and beyond! I really appreciate you getting the parts and pricing together. About time to start my ordering and I figured I might as well replace the rag joint while I'm at it.

I pulled the column last night - lots easier than I figured it would be. I have another question though...I guess I need to pull the steering wheel, I've taken it apart down to where I can see the splines. I have a harmonic balancer PULLER and was wondering if it could be used to pull the wheel? I'll just need to find some bolts to fit the two bolt holes correct??

After that, the tricky part seems to be the key lock. I printed your papers. Will I be able to reuse the key lock once it's pulled?

Thanks again for the help. This is uncharted territory for me.

GaryS

From the "been there, done that" category let me add some advice. Take pictures, lots of pictures (digital if you have it) as you disassemble your column. Print out the exploded parts diagram over at http://www.corvettefaq.com and keep your photos handy. You will be happy you did.
Gary

Jim Shea

The key to using a puller is that you want the bolts to be parallel and not cocked. Otherwise you run the risk of the bolt(s) breaking off in the steering wheel hub. So as long as your puller will grip the bolts right in line with the holes in the hub, then you should be fine.

If you want, you can reuse your original lock cylinder in your new T&T column.

The lock cylinder is held in the column housing by a spring loaded metal wedge. You need to remove the steering wheel, wheel hub, lock plate, and then pull the turn signal switch out far enough to reach a slot in the column housing. Then all you need to do is depress the wedge and the cylinder will come right out and can be reused.

Some people have had a problem with locating the slot in the column housing so that they can use a small screwdriver to depress the wedge. Page #10 in T&T Disassembly and Repair Paper #1 shows the location of the slot in the housing. There sometimes is a very thin die cast membrane that might be covering the slot. You can easily break through it to reach the wedge.

There were two flexible couplings used during C3 production.

If you have an 1968 or early 1969 vehicle, you probably have a steering gear where the input shaft has serrations all the way around the shaft. Therefore, you need #7806391 flexible coupling assembly.

If you have a late 1969 through 1982 vehicle, you will note that the input shaft has serrations, but there is a flat machined on one side. It requires a different flexible coupling to mate with the shaft. You require GM part number #7818568.

Both flexible couplings are available through GM dealers as well as many Corvette suppliers. I do not recommend the "bolt together" kit to repair your original flex coupling.

GreyGhost

Oh I hate working on the steering column :U :U :U :U

midwest-vette

Jim

Is the GM part 7818568 the entire coupling or just the flexible piece in the center. I hope you're going to tell me that it the complete coupling. I priced it at the local dealer, it was $70.

Anyway, thanks again for the replies. I'll probably shoot you some more questions in a day or two when I start pulling the guts out of the column. :smash:

Jim Shea

It is the entire flexible coupling. You might try Zip or some of the other Corvette suppliers. They purchased the flexible couplings from GM and don't seem to have the obscene markups that GM SPO seems to have. You might try that same part number at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com You will find that they have it marked considerably below list. You will have several bucks worth of shipping however.

midwest-vette

GM parts direct is only $40! Time to order. Thanks again Jim. If I don't get this column straightened out would you be interested in some side work??

Let me know, I'll keep you in mind if I think things are getting fouled up.

Jim Shea

I have a lot of technical information but no parts! So I don't think that I will be getting into the column rebuild business. I will be glad to continue to give advise however.

Jim

midwest-vette

Jim -
I'm having a heck of a time pulling the ignition lock. First of all, I was pressing against the lock through the wrong hole and when I tried to pull the lock the head popped off. I found the correct hole nearest the screw boss (with the help of the pic in your paper) and I can't seem to get the spring clip to release. Since I popped the head of the lock off, I'm using the ign key turned to the run position and trying to pull the lock while pressing the clip. Is this OK? Getting closer... :smash:

Jim Shea

A lot of people have had problems trying to locate the slot so that they can push in the locking tab (wedge) and remove their lock cylinder.

This is my description in my Disassembly & Repair Paper #1 on removing the lock cylinder.

The 1969 thru 1978 (and some 1979) lock cylinders are held in place by a metal spring tab that sticks out of the lock cylinder. This tab engages a narrow, rectangular slot in the column housing. This slot is vertical, right on the centerline of the lock cylinder, and located at about the 1 o'clock position in the housing and is right next to the turn signal switch mounting screw boss. See Fig. 1 at the end of this paper.

Can anyone think of a clearer way to describe this procedure! I would be happy to modify my description in my paper to help you out.

midwest-vette

Jim, I got the lock out and I'm into another area where I have a question. I'm trying to remove the retainer for the tilt spring. I've read the papers and it says to use a screwdriver on the retainer. I can't get the retainer to budge. Is there a trick to this? I placed the column in the full upward position and the retainer has a square hole that I can fit the screwdriver into...does it need some inward pressure and a left turn? It seems stuck.

TIA

Jim Shea

Here is the method for removing the tilt spring retainer.

Reinstall the tilt lever and place the column in the full "up" position.

Use a phillips screwdriver that fits the square hole in the tilt spring retainer. Press the retainer down against the spring about 3/16 inch.

Now turn it approximately 1/8 turn counter-clockwise until the ears on the retainer align with the grooves in the housing.

Remove the spring and guide.

midwest-vette

Hey Jim,

I got it all torn down last night. Found that the rack was busted apart where it connects to the rod. I have one last question (hopefully), there is a plastic retainer on the back side of the housing with ball bearings sitting in it and there was probably only 6 bearings found. The retainer looks like it holds at least double that many bearings, in other words, there are "cups" for bearings that were empty. Do I need to buy some bearings and fill all the cups? Maybe Bubba had been in there in the past?

Jim you've been a great help with this project, I really appreciate it.

-Kelly

Jim Shea

Looks like you need more *****. I don't remember the number but it would be a good bet that one per pocket in the separator is the number. You should also inspect the races as well and make sure that they are not worn or pitted. GM sells a bearing and rack kit #7844651 that sounds like it contains just the parts that you need.

midwest-vette

Hey Jim,

I got the new parts installed and everything back together. Here's what I've got 1)Now when I turn the key my hazard lights come on and stay on. If I pull or push the hazard **** nothing changes. 2)My key won't come out of the ignition lock. 3) The car won't turn over.

The rack and rod are moving the ignition switch - I set the rod in the switch 2 detents left of the far right. What could be the problem? Any suggestions?

midwest-vette

ttt


I'd rather pull an entire engine than mess with the steering column again. :banghead: