T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace?
#1
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T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace?
In the course of fixing windshield frame rot, I'm removing the stainless center molding on top of the t-top frame. It's kinda scratched and smudged from years of use. Can these things be re-furbished or am I better off to replace it. I see Zip has them for $189. Seems a little spendy, but I can't seem to locate one anywhere else.
Also, if anyone has done this job, how did you re-attach it to the rear cross bar moldings. It's riveted on with, I assume, stainless rivets. Would small stainless screws work? Thanks!
Also, if anyone has done this job, how did you re-attach it to the rear cross bar moldings. It's riveted on with, I assume, stainless rivets. Would small stainless screws work? Thanks!
#3
Race Director
Re: T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace? (LAvetteman)
Are the ones from Zip new or refurbished? I remember some vendors selling refurbished ones- if thats the case- you are much better off having it polished at a local shop- I had mine done and it looks better than new (like glass) they even took out a few little dings. If I remember right the cost for that piece was about $50.00.
Mine was not rivited in- I guess the previous owner had it off before- I used stainless screws to reattach.
Mine was not rivited in- I guess the previous owner had it off before- I used stainless screws to reattach.
#4
Le Mans Master
Re: T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace? (LT-1 Larry)
I just finished polishing mine and it didn't come out bad at all. If you have scratches i would recommend taking them out with 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper first and then follow that up with emery compound on a sisal polishing wheel (you can use a drill for this) and then follow that up with white rouge for a final polish. You can get all the supplies you need from Sears.
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Re: T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace? (LT-1 Larry)
Are you sure the one you've seen in Zip is for your year (1971)? If I recall when I was looking to replace mine none of the vendors had this part for the early years of C3's, only 1976 and later.
The rear part (the area attached with rivits) is about 1/2" shorter on each side on the newer moldings and there will be no way to cure the water leaks. That's why I had to replace mine, Bubba had put on the molding from a '77.
I eventually got a used part form one of the Corvette salvage yards (I think the one in Bristol, PA), and polished it up myself with a Dremel. And yes I used SS screws instead of the rivets.
ps don't forget to replace the caulking that is under the trim. I'm not sure what GM used but mine was still pliable when I took off the trim, so I reused it.
[Modified by 6t9l4t6, 7:10 PM 10/1/2003]
The rear part (the area attached with rivits) is about 1/2" shorter on each side on the newer moldings and there will be no way to cure the water leaks. That's why I had to replace mine, Bubba had put on the molding from a '77.
I eventually got a used part form one of the Corvette salvage yards (I think the one in Bristol, PA), and polished it up myself with a Dremel. And yes I used SS screws instead of the rivets.
ps don't forget to replace the caulking that is under the trim. I'm not sure what GM used but mine was still pliable when I took off the trim, so I reused it.
[Modified by 6t9l4t6, 7:10 PM 10/1/2003]
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: T-Top Stainless ~ Repair or Replace? (vettfixr)
I just finished polishing mine and it didn't come out bad at all. If you have scratches i would recommend taking them out with 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper first and then follow that up with emery compound on a sisal polishing wheel (you can use a drill for this) and then follow that up with white rouge for a final polish. You can get all the supplies you need from Sears.