sb69coupe

So I'm getting closer to completion on the 2002-2003 winter project. Perfect timing, now that winter 03-04 is almost here :eek: The car has not been started since last December so I want to make sure I do the right thing(s) before firing her back up. Here's what was done, and what I plan to do prior to firing up for the first time.

The fuel filter and lines were replaced. The timing set, front and rear seals, and all gaskets were done. The radiator hoses were replaced when the radiator support was performed. New clutch kit and rebuilt tranny. New vacuum hoses, etc. I did NOT remove the distributor at all. Nor did I open up the carb. The car has been on a trickle charger so the battery should be charged. So here's what I'm thinking:

Fill rad with 50/50 mix, fresh oil and filter. Pull the coil wire and crank the car a few times to prime the oil pump and get some oil in the main bearings, as well as start to prime the new fuel filter. After turning it over for 10-15 seconds stop and connect the coil wire and fill the float bowls to prime the carb. Have an assistant standing outside with fire extinguisher to watch for anything abnormal as I try to crank up the car. Once it cranks, bring it up to 1500-2000 rpm and watch the oil pressure and temp like a hawk for a couple of minutes.

Am I missing anything? I'd really appreciate any advice.
Shannon

marshrat99

Hey Shannon I can only think of one thing you missed...Beer to celebrate after that sucker fires up! Have one for me. :cheers:

sb69coupe

Marshrat, I've got that covered. Carolina IPA and Carolina Oktoberfest Lager right beside the tool chest! :cheers:

sb69coupe

TTT - anyone got any input?

MN-Brent

Sweet beer meister set-up :cheers:

If you didnt put Stabil in the fuel, maybe you should think about siphoning out as much of the old as possible and dump in some new. Ive heard todays fuel only has a 3 week life span before it starts to degrade.

Anyway it could be that the car doesn't run very well until you burn through the old fuel and get new fuel in the carb. Hopefully there is no problem.

Best Regards, Brent...

Flareside

Shannon, do you have access to an oil pump primer tool? It may not be absolutely necessary, but I would prefer to prime the engine without those semi-dry journals spinning on the bearings while all the oil galleys refill. It's nice to see oil flowing over the valvetrain and bearings before startup. Summit sells them for around $20.

sb69coupe

Joe, I had geven that some thought. I did prime the oil pump itself when I reinstalled it after dropping the pan. As I mentioned, I have not had the distributor out of the motor, so I'm a little hesitant to yank it just to prime the oil system. Are the benefits of using a priming tool more important than the hassle of having to remove and reinstall the distributor, as well as having to set the timing?

Shannon

Flareside

This is definitely a grey area and a judgment call, but I probably wouldn't take a chance with the oil system. After sitting for a year, there can't be much oil left anywhere above the pan, so the bearing will definitely take a beating for a minute or two. Whether or not that's significant is debatable.
Did you fill the oil filter before you installed it? If not, that will add to the oil delay.

Good luck and keep us posted!


[Modified by Flareside, 8:23 AM 9/27/2003]

Pedro'74

I'm in the same situation, but I'm not that close to completion... :nonod:

Last time my car sat for a while, some forum members recommended to remove the spark plugs and squirt some Marvel Mistery Oil inside the cylinders. I did that, and had no problem at all.

:cheers:
-Pedro

71coupe

I agree with pedro about pulling the plugs and adding a little oil. With the plugs out & coil lead shorted to ground, turn over motor to clear out cylinders. This will also build up oil pressure quickly as there is no resistance from the compression.


I had my car parked for 3 months on a very slight incline with the front lower. When I attempted to start the motor, it had a hard time turning over. I thought it was a weak battery. I attempted to jump start it and it still had a difficult time cranking. Thinking that the advance weights were sticking, I retarded the timing. Finally it started, but had no gas pedal response. After about 3 to 4 seconds, I noticed my oil pressure was about 10 psi. Right then I knew I screwed up and quickly shut it off. Fuel bypassed my electric fuel pump during the storage time - my crankcase and cyls were filled to the rim with gas.
The weird thing about it, before I started it, I checked the oil and it was right at the full mark. I guess my dipstick sealed well enough to keep the gas from climbing up the tube.
I was lucky as there was no damage to the motor (my current 355), although I probably cut it's lifespan in half.
Ever since then I always pull the plugs and crank it over after storage just to be safe.