rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (input needed)
09-23-2003, 07:28 PM
#1
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rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (input needed)
okay, so I know a guy that said he would rebuild my 350 for $1400CND ($1030USD). This is strictly rebuilding, not boring it out. I don't think boring it out would be much more expensive though would it? Since it's already apart. Does this price seem fair?
He also said during the rebuild, if I want to replace anything all I have to do is give him the parts. So, $1400 + cost of parts.
I'd like to get somewhere around 350HP at the rear wheels out of this. However, I don't have a clue when it comes to cam/heads/etc. Could you guys give me some input? Specifics would help a lot.
specs: 3.55:1, 3sp auto, dynomax cerama-coat headers, 1 1/4" dual exhaust. I've toyed with the idea of swapping it for a 4/5 speed manual. Any issues I may run into? With the added HP, will I need to change anything else?
He also said during the rebuild, if I want to replace anything all I have to do is give him the parts. So, $1400 + cost of parts.
I'd like to get somewhere around 350HP at the rear wheels out of this. However, I don't have a clue when it comes to cam/heads/etc. Could you guys give me some input? Specifics would help a lot.
specs: 3.55:1, 3sp auto, dynomax cerama-coat headers, 1 1/4" dual exhaust. I've toyed with the idea of swapping it for a 4/5 speed manual. Any issues I may run into? With the added HP, will I need to change anything else?
09-23-2003, 08:40 PM
#2
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Re: rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (SicChild)
If he is not boring it or replacing any parts what is he doing. Just disassembly and reassemble. I think that is way to much. For a proper rebuild check the cylinders for wear and it will probably need a boring bar run through it. Take it to a good machine shop and have them check all the dimensions of the block crank and rods. A few more dollars spent in the right place will make the engine live a lot longer. It does not sound like this guy is doing much.
09-23-2003, 09:03 PM
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Re: rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (Gordonm)
If he is not boring it or replacing any parts what is he doing. Just disassembly and reassemble. I think that is way to much. For a proper rebuild check the cylinders for wear and it will probably need a boring bar run through it. Take it to a good machine shop and have them check all the dimensions of the block crank and rods. A few more dollars spent in the right place will make the engine live a lot longer. It does not sound like this guy is doing much.
09-23-2003, 09:13 PM
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Re: rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (Gordonm)
:iagree: If you go 383 you will have to change some bottom end parts and bore the cylinders. As far as heads, go with AFR :yesnod: . They have some dyno results on their website will a list of the parts used. Check it out: http://airflowresearch.com/ and click on "dyno results" at the top of the page :cheers:
[Modified by Ryan77, 9:14 PM 9/23/2003]
[Modified by Ryan77, 9:14 PM 9/23/2003]
09-24-2003, 10:08 PM
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Re: rebuilding my 350 -> 383 (SicChild)
Those on the AFR sit eput out some pretty stout numbers with their 190 heads,
especially with the RPM Air Gap intake, and strangely enuf most of them did best with 1-5/8 headers instead of 1-3/4 (more and broader torque range). Also check out Lingenfelter racing site. And, here's another link that will pop your eyes open for a fairly basic 383. I've been researching - would go Scat cast crank, Scat I beam rods, Speed Pro coated pistons, AFR 190 heads, one of the Comp Cams retro hydraulic rollers in the near 200 to 230 @ 050 range depending on your target torque curve. http://www.lingenfelter.com/ http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos2.html. With a Demon carb, some of those put out very near 500hp and 500 torque at very streetable rpms. A port efi system like Accel or one of the others would fatten up the low rpm respone and mid range even more, and likely decrease the gas guzzler syndrome, but kind of pricey. You can get all the internal reciprocating parts new on ebay very reasonable.
especially with the RPM Air Gap intake, and strangely enuf most of them did best with 1-5/8 headers instead of 1-3/4 (more and broader torque range). Also check out Lingenfelter racing site. And, here's another link that will pop your eyes open for a fairly basic 383. I've been researching - would go Scat cast crank, Scat I beam rods, Speed Pro coated pistons, AFR 190 heads, one of the Comp Cams retro hydraulic rollers in the near 200 to 230 @ 050 range depending on your target torque curve. http://www.lingenfelter.com/ http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos2.html. With a Demon carb, some of those put out very near 500hp and 500 torque at very streetable rpms. A port efi system like Accel or one of the others would fatten up the low rpm respone and mid range even more, and likely decrease the gas guzzler syndrome, but kind of pricey. You can get all the internal reciprocating parts new on ebay very reasonable.