1Asterisk

Is the L82 worth holding out for?

Are the differences in the engine so much that getting an L48 would limit me in the long run?

It seems that there is a 40 HP difference in the two. Thats just based off of various HP reportings that I've read around the net.

L48 - 180 hp
L82 - 220 hp

thx in advance!

There is a big classic car auction coming in early October near my home. Its called Cruising the Coast if anyone happens to have heard of it....

I'm trying to get the last bit of my understanding down before bidding or searching for anything. :)

Shark Racer

A 350 is a 350 is a 350.

Compression, valves, cam, and intake manifold make an L-82 over an L-48.

8.2:1 versus 9:1.
1.94/1.5 versus 2.02/1.60
.390/.410 lift in an L-48 vs .450/.460 in an L-82
Iron vs aluminum (until 79 or 80, anyways.)

So yes, an ORIGINAL L-82 would be worth holding out for for an NCRS garage queen.


But all the parts on the L-48 are replaceable. None of the specific parts on the L-82 are by any means "wild", and with just a little bit of cash the L-48 could blow the L-82 away.

I should note, the L-82 has stronger internals than the L-48, but a balanced crank L-48 will hold up to just about any amount of streetable hp you can throw at it.

(L-82 has forged pistons, forged crank, 4-bolt main. L-48 has cast aluminum pistons, cast crank, 2-bolt main.)

There ya go!

-Steve

*edit* I should note, my GW350 with bolt-ons is faster by 1/10 of a second than the numbers GM put out for the 78 L-82. Of course, if you strapped some of these bolts ons on an L-82 it'd be ahead of the game again.


[Modified by Pacin'California, 11:13 PM 9/22/2003]

Neo Fender

In later years, the difference was even smaller, around 30 HP. I would not hold out or pay significantly more for an L-82. Back when new, it was a worthwhile option (only around $500 or so). But today, you can assume that any C3 that still has its original L-82 probably has a number of miles on it and will need a rebuild in the near future. No sense in paying extra for something that's going to be rebuilt or replaced in the near term.

Just my $.02, YMMV.

ddwood50

Masterfulks
I live Gautier and have a 76 with the L-82 in it. To me it just runs alot stronger. Going to try and make the cruise this year. Maybe I will see you there.
Dennis Wood

Tom73

Most of the book values only add about $500 for the L82. So would depend upon what you are going to do with the car. If you are going to basicly keep it stock the L82 will give you significently more power. It also has a very wicked idle (same cam as the old 350ci/350hp engine). But if you plan on mod'ing the motor then either will do. The advantage of the L82 for mod'ing is that it has the stronger internals. But rather than looking at L82 vs L48, if you are planning on hot rodding the car, you should be looking at original vs replacement engines. Why chop up an original car?

So if I was going to hot rod the car, I would stay away from the L82 and the L48 and look for a car that has a replacement engine. That way I could not hurt the value of a numbers matching original engine car. If it is a non-original engine car then the sky is the limit on what you can do.

tom...

GTR1999

The L-82's also had a windage tray,but I don't know how much of a difference that makes?
Gary

79MakoL82

Here are the 1979 L82 specs as I've been able to collect them:

1979 L82 Engine Specifications

Block: 4 bolt main block
Crank: Part #3941182 Forged crank
Two main seals
Rod Journal 2.1”
Main Journal 2.45”
Stroke 3.484”
Pistons: Part #474192 Forged flat top pistons
Compression ratio: 8.9:1
L82 cam specs:Part #3896962
Hydraulic flat tappet
.450 / .460 lift
222/222 duration
114 Lobe Separation Angle
Heads: Casting #462624 Cast Iron
Intake runner volume 161cc
76cc chamber
2.02”/1.6” valves
Straight plugs
Screw in rocker studs
Pushrod guide plates
Heat riser
Intake Manifold: Aluminum intake manifold

The things that I would give credit to is the 4 bolt main, forged crank and pistons. Screw in studs may add a little too but that's only meaningful if you're going to keep the original heads. They may add a little life to your engine if you are going to build it up. However, if you're going to build it up, I'd just go buy a brand new crate and start from there or you can get a ZZ4 bottom end for under $2,000 and build up from there. Any original you get is still going to be OLD.

MotorHead

The sooner you pull either of the underpowered boat anchors and modify the happier you will be :D

Captain Morgan

If you pull the engine and drop in a crate or built engine, it won't matter. If you plan on rebuilding the current engine, then, as you've been told, the L-82 has stronger internals. If you want a show car, garage queen, the L-82 MIGHT be worth a bit more to some people.

pillowmeto

with the 4bolt mains, stronger rods, bigger cam, bigger heads, and forged crank its worth holding out for, they were designed to give a real racer something to start with since GM had emmisions to deal with, and the L48 was jsut that other engien that they put in it for the rest of the guys, which i have.

MAtt

1Asterisk

Thanks everyone!

I'm definately planning on holding out for a 4 speed unless something really nice passes my way, and is a great deal. Even so I would feel like I"m missing out every time I felt the gears change....

So nothing about the rest of the car is really different besides the engine.

I was thinking there may have been some suspension upgrades or something like that on the L-82. Either way I feel now its not worth passing on a good deal just to find the L-82.

As for modding....I do plan to mod some, but I dont plan to go all out on it (I know its addictive! Much like many of my other hoobies). I want it to feel responsive and like a sports car. Yet it will never touch a track or do doughnuts (like the vid I posted a few days ago). It will mainly be a weekend car.

1Asterisk

I definately plan to attend. Are you showing your vette there?

Maybe you'll want to make me a great deal on it. :)

Captain Morgan

If you are wanting something with a stiffer suspension, you may want to look for a car that came with the "gymkhana" suspension. That's what they used to call autocross in the 70's and it made a difference in how the car handled. Granted, it's a pretty rough ride on the streets, but it was a factory option. Basically it was stiffer springs and a rear sway bar. However, you can ALWAYS upgrade the suspension, so it's not something you need to hold out for. Check out http://www.vettebrakes.com for suspension upgrades.

ddwood50

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