LT1driver

OK, lost how to set up this. I can't remember if you attach + to iron rod or - to rod and the other goes directly in H2o solution using comet etc. Anyone remember correct way....Another way to ask this question is which way does electric current flow, pos to neg or neg to pos on battery????? :confused:

sb69coupe

http://cvh.50megs.com/re/index.html

This is a page that a buddy of mine put together, describes how he does it.

Shannon :cheers:

LT1driver

Thanks, that is just what I was looking for. :D

LemansBlue68

Does this really work??? I've never seen this before. I've seen electric currents used as a method rust prevention (as in sacraficial anodes for building structures, bridges etc.) but never in rust removal . Interesting.......please post before and after results.

hauk

It will work but you have to watch it as if left on too long it will eat the metal that you are trying to clean. :cry

Nomad78SA

This is my favorite method for rust removal. Battery charger, some electrolyte (sodium carbonate), negative on the good piece, positive on a piece of junk iron. Converts your iron oxide back into just iron.

How much water is needed verses how much sodium carbonate is needed?

What amount of amperes must you be running through the metal and how do you determine how long you need to be hooked up to remove the rust?
Neil in Tenn


[Modified by Nomad78SA, 5:21 PM 9/19/2003]

Richard Cooper

I have never heard of this before, but it sounds like a great idea. Could you post some more info on how this is done. Like what is the amounts used in the mixture and how long do you leave the charger on and at what setting. Thanks. :cool: :cool:

ZD75blue

So does the rust just fall off? :confused:

rob75383

I'm familiar with electroplating, and that's exactly what you guys seem to be talking about.
I'm not a chemical engineer or anything, but I doubt that the electroplating process "converts" the iron oxide back to plain iron.
The way I learned it: electons are passed from one part to another, and settle on the surface of the other part. How would adding a coating of iron to iron oxide convert the rust back to iron?? Wouldn't the rust still be there underneath??? Are you guys using the alkaline/ caustic to nuetralize the rust??
I used to help a family friend at his jewelry store electroplate trinkets and figurines with gold or silver or both (I'm sure the bastard was making some good money on the junk!) There was specific chemicals used to electroplate each. In science class, we used vinegar and I think salt, to transfer from a penny to a quarter or vice versa.
The thickness of the electroplating is soo thin, aren't there easier ways to restore metal??
I'm not doubting that the process has its merits, but I'm just curious about the "converting" rust back to iron part.


[Modified by '75 383 ElkGrove, 7:51 PM 9/19/2003]

Apeiron

It's not electroplating, it's an electrochemical reduction reaction. Rust forms when oxygen in the air strips electrons away from iron and forms iron oxide. By forcing electrons back in, so to speak, the reaction can be reversed. The problem is that rust is a porous, flaky solid, so it's not possible to convert it back without losing material.

It can be done for other metals as well, those "magic bars" that remove tarnish from silver are nothing more than chunks of scrap aluminum. In that case the aluminum gives up electrons to the silver and the process occurs spontaneously without needing a source of electricity.

VegasJen

WOW! this sounds really cool. never heard of it before but i'd really like to see it done. if anybody does this, how 'bout taking some pics!

KenSny

This method does work with excellent results and it is time consuming - this will not happen in 15-20 minutes!.

No flame intended but IMHO I could (or have the large parts done at a shop) media blast parts and have them primered in less time than it takes for this method to reach the primer stage.

GDaina

:lol: :lol: Yup, you and I have an advantage, just tool down to Atom blasting and get the parts the in a matter of hours. I had to get my A arms blasted, cost me 20 bucks, and was able to wait for them. Half hour later, I was on my way

PRNDL

I wonder if it would work on me! I've been feeling a bit rusty lately.... :lol: MJ

GDaina

Mark, you need some Sassparilla or however that's spelled.... :lol: :lol:

KenSny

George - Yeah, I can almost walk there from where I live. I get all my stuff done there. Even had some patio furniture done a few years back. Nice bunch of guys and the price is right.

OkeeGuy

this sounds pretty cool...
i would also be interested in the results...
BTW...has any of you used OSPHO on rust?
works great!

GDaina

I used Ospho on the bare, clean frame and the components when it came out of the dipper. Neutralized the rust.

NHvette

OSPHO ? Is this a phosphoric acid based converter/primer ?
I've used the POR brand Metal Ready, and recently stuff I got at Home Depot
called A Must For Rust. Both do a great job on wirebrushed rust and clean metal.
:seeya

Smokehouse69

OSPH is a clear sort of light green liquid. It is just phosphoric acid in a water solution. You paint it on rusty metal and it forms a sort of white crust on it, the rust turns dark gray or black. After the crust forms you can wire brush it off and wipe down with prepsol and primer and paint. I think it is supposed to mildly etch the metal and turn the rust into iron phosphate. I haven't used any of it in years, POR15 works so much better over rusty metal.