TedH

I am in the process of removing the power steering pump, control valve and slave cylinder. The pump is out and the lines are removed. The control valve and slave cylinder are not cooperating. I am attempting to use a tie rod splitter to separate the slave cylinder from the center steering linkage and made no noticable progress. I am using the hammer and splitter approach. I suspect I may have to step up to an air-driven hammer and splitter (what the mechanic used to make quick work of my old tie rods and ball joints). Same situation with the control valve to pitman arm but even more stubborn; I can't even get a good 'angle' and fear damaging the control valve (I want that $160 core charge credit for the control valve and slave cylinder).

Advice urgently needed. :seeya


[Modified by TedH, 7:53 PM 9/18/2003]

TedH

URGENTLY need guidance. TTT...

adamdinat

I just replaced my control valve. It took some good whacks to separate the pitman arm joint. I would probably get the cyclinder off first. Once the pitman arm is loose everything moves. On the controller I remvoed the bolt and had to use a pipe wrench to inch it off. Invest in a thread file to clean up the threads on relay rod end before installing the new one. McMaster Carr has them for $10

s79vette

TedH,
Had your same problem a couple years ago. ended up using a small hand sledge.
It worked finally and I was lying on my back also. Don't be afraid to smack it good, you can't hurt it. A nail hammer doesn't have enough weight to it. Steve

Red69

When I did mine recently, I droped the whole thing in one assembly - seperate the tie rod ends, idler arm, P ram attachment, control valve from P arm. Makes it easier to work on when its on the bench!

79VetteMike

For what it's worth, http://www.contemporarycorvette.com has the valves for $120 with no core charge. They are new(not rebuilt) from SSBC. I just got one in today.

Edzred72

Ted:
You need a bigger hammer. It took a 5lb hammer to remove mine.
Eddie :smash:


[Modified by Silvr77, 2:03 PM 9/19/2003]

HEARTBEATUSA

:iagree: Hit it hard and she'll break loose, also remember to remove the small pinch bolt completely on the end of the valve... If you leave it in and try to remove the valve you'll damage the threads and you will need that thread file.. good luck

Tom454

You guys have me rolling on the floor here.

When you hit the control valve stud with a pickle fork/separator, the impact is transferred directly to the pitman arm, and then to the pitman shaft... and then to the bushings in the gear box. You should NEVER hit a pitman arm to remove it, and ditto for the control valve stud. A puller is available to do this job without causing damage to the grear box. Check the service manuals... they also say not to hit the pitman arm/shaft. This topic has been beat to death on this forum... if you search the archives, you will see that what I am saying is true. I don't feel like arguing about it right now. Please take a look at the archives.

Edit... I pulled this from one of the archived posts...
He had his own approach.... remove the arm from the steering gear box and THEN pound the poop out of the control valve stud/pitman arm with a pickle fork. I guess this is safe.

Quote:
I replacede my control valve this summer. Its really not hard to do this yourself. Like mentioned before you will need a pickle fork. I also bought a pitman arm puller so I could take the valve off with the pitman arm attached to it. I did not want to bang on the pickle fork while the arm was attached to the steering box. I pulled the pitman arm off the steering box and unscrewed the valve off the car. Then used the pickle fork to remove the pitman arn from the valve




[Modified by Tom454, 4:13 PM 9/19/2003]

goofygrin

:iagree:

Autozone, pitman arm puller, free rental... way easier (and lemme tell ya, a 3-5lb sledge does a doozie to the fiberglass you will hit if you miss or slip!)

Tom454

Here's one...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=210833

Dalannex

Anytime you are removing a taper type stud such as the one on the control valve just take an air chisel and chisel on the casting where the stud goes into. It only takes a second or two of chiseling and the stud falls right out.


-Justin

TedH

Too late... I bought a Craftsman air hammer and pickle fork kit. In 5 minutes, had separated the control valve from the pitman arm and the slave cylinder from the center link. I suppose I'll know if I damaged the steering box bushings in due time...

For all that replace your power steering pump, be sure to remove the two studs from the rear of the pump as well as the pulley. I bought a puller from Discount Auto (Florida) for $22; a bit expensive in my opinion but the alternative was the wrong pulley from VB&P! The pump came with a bolt, nut and washer that made pressing of the pulley back onto the rebuilt pump easy.