Steve Straus

Has anyone had luck with these? I've installed 2 now and I can't get them to stop leaking on the rear corners of the pan. My brother is having the same problem on his 383 too.

Frankenvette

I too have a leaking oil pan using this gasket. My oil pan is old, so it could be warped. Also, timing cover is old and gasket could be getting failing. I can't say for sure the gasket is the cause.

68427

I've used them in the past for my small block with great success. Now they are available for big blocks too. Installed mine less than a month ago, works awsome.

Make sure your pan rails are straight and don't overtighten. Uh, don't undertighten either

KenSny

I just installed the FEL-PRO for a '75-350 (have not run the car yet, having electrical problems) but my instructions said to use a dab of RTV on the 4 corners. I did make sure my rails were straight tho. Others have said that no RTV was need at the corners. Maybe FEL-PRO is now suggesting RTV because of know problems?

BTW: with the metal insert in the gasket for each hole, I can see where it would leak if the rails were not completely straight and flat. I believe the GM torque is 8 lb/ft (rails) and 16 lb/ft (corners).




[Modified by KenSny, 5:21 PM 9/15/2003]


[Modified by KenSny, 5:41 PM 9/15/2003]

Duke94

I've used it twice and have had NO leaks. You need to use the RTV in the corners as others have said.

79MakoL82

:iagree:

Installed mine on my '79 L82. No problems

Corey_68

We run these gaskets on all our rebuilds and never had any problem with leaks. :confused:

Turbo-Jet

:iagree:

and my oil pan is not the straightest either

ddecart

Put one on my car this spring. No leaks. I beat my oil pan flange so it would sit flat, but that was a minor issue.

rob75383

I planned on trying one of these, but I want to do it the next time I pull the engine out. I also want to pressure test the block for oil leaks BEFORE I put her back in the car-- if I can figure out a good way to do it, that is.

Turbo-Jet

get some of that UV dye and take it to a engine dyno.

or maybe you could do it at home without cranking. connect a small pressure vessel filled with oil to the dry-sump inlet port. pressurize with compressed air at while turning the crank by hand. there would be some backflow through the oil pump but it still should pressurize. ??


[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 6:18 PM 9/16/2003]

rob75383

I was thinking of putting the assembled engine on a stand, then somehow adapting my air compressor to the valve cover hole, and just putting some pressure in to see where it leaks out. That way, I can install her into the car with NO oil leaks, right from the get-go, versus trying to track them down once the motor has been installed.

Turbo-Jet

hmm. the crankcase wasn't designed to seal more than a few psi of pressure so be careful. should be able to test all the major gaskets if all the vavles are closed. but you won't be able to propely test the rear main seal because it requires more pressure to energize the lip seal. perhaps you can combine both methods.

Steve Straus

Sorry for the late response. I've been without phone and power for a little bit.

On the first install I used just the dry gasket and dabs of blue RTV on the corners with the second one. The pan is a brand new milodon pan.

I think I'll switch back to the cork gaskets and see if I have any better luck.

BSeery

:iagree:

Fevre

Think I read a method similar to that but you block off the carb and valve cover holes and use some type of smoke blown into the dipstick hole.

Captain Morgan

Just to get this straight, you guys are all suggesting "just a dab of RTV at the corners" and no other RTV on the gasket?

Fevre

:yesnod:

That is what is on the directions.

marshrat99

:iagree: Just a dab and I've not had a leak after 1K miles so far. I really liked the one piece ! :cheers:

GDaina

Do they make the one seal for Mark IV motors? I know the one seal were designed for use on the GEN V and IV motors.