Sixty9

You know what I would really like to type. I know this has been answered before, but whats the easiest method? Stud broke on exhaust manifold. Putting on new side mufflers--soaked with PB first--drivers side came off like butter--all 3 :hurray: . Passenger side is not budging at all--and 1 already broke off right at the manifold(nothing to grab on to). This BLOWS! Please don't tell me I have to take off manifold---if you do---what about those breaking off in the block(my luck)---I don't want to deal w/that! Anyhow, I started to drill a hole thru stud w/flange still there--held by other 2 that I'm scared to turn now. The hole is slightly off center--it's hard layin' on back-flange blocking view while drilling. Can a shop get it out or should I continue w/larger bits(started with 1/16")? IF it didn't turn before how is an extractor going to turn it? I do not have an acytelene torch--just propane.What's the answer to this rude situation? Can anything ever go as planned!

Sixty9

Any answers? :confused: Extractor, mapp gas, drill out completely(but hole I started slightly off center--possible problem)?

BB wowbagger

If you can drill it,drill it.Start with a small drill and move to a bigger one etc..If you drill the hole a little offcenter,doesnt matter as long as you avoid drilling into the manifold. :smash: :smash:

Sixty9

Thanx for the response BB :thumbs: ! If I continue to drill it--question is--if it wouldn't screw out--how will I get the remaining metal out of the threads of the manifold--seeing how it is so stuck in there? Since the hole is a little off center, I'll have to stop when it looks like it's touching one side of the manifold threading first--leaving a little more metal on the other side. :skep:

Smokehouse69

See if you can find some reverse twist bits, then as you drill there is a chance that you will back the broken bolt out. I've got a set of reverse drill bits that have come in very handy, many times for situations like this.

1972 Shark

If you go to a good auto parts store, they should sell a tool called stud extractor, normal cost under $20.00 (have not had the unfortunate oportunity to use one but have seen them advertised). You local Home Depot or Lowes also will sell extractors-different sized, cheap in their tool department. Also try heating the manifold before extracting it. Good Luck!
:seeya


[Modified by 1972 Shark, 9:47 PM 9/14/2003]

Red69

Applying heat is the best remedy for rusty bolts/studs. Soaking with penitrating oil helps as well. With only a torch, things might be tougher.. . As far as the broke stud, I'v not had much luck with easy-out extractors. Keep in mind that they can brake of as well... then things get interesting Drilling is the last resort... but all is not lost... this may be the best approach is some cases. Continue drilling with larger and larger bits... ensure you stay out of the manifold threads. Use a chisle.. or what ever you can get in the hole to pry out the remiaining thread metal. One you get all the bolt metal from the hole run a tap through it to clean up the threads.

Focus on the other two bolts/studs so you can get the flange out of the way. Take your time... and good luck.

:flag

cardo0

:iagree: I like what Red69 has to say. I’ve broken easyouts/extractors a couple of times and it’s not funny. Now when you remove the remaining intact bolts a good dose of penetrate can help as it’s designed to wick into the threads even though a long ways away – squirt some at the manifold/head surface.
Counter torque, applied by hand on 90* of bar side on socket to keep bolt/nut straight and minimize side loads/forces on bolt. Use the largest breaker bar you can fit in and use counter torque while breaking bolt loose.
I haven’t proven this myself but if you can heat the broken bolt – map gas, etc. – red hot is good enough but not required – and then squirt it with penetrate/lubricant. This is supposed to draw the penetrate into the threads. :smash:


[Modified by cardo0, 12:00 AM 9/15/2003]