removing rear discs
#1
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removing rear discs
hi,
i've got a terrible squeak on the rear drivers side wheel, sounds like inside the disc where the parking brake shoes are,
problem is, i can't get the disc off to have a look,
i've taken all the adjustment off the handbrake,
i don't want to hit the disc too hard with a hammer either,
any ideas????
thanks,
neil
i've got a terrible squeak on the rear drivers side wheel, sounds like inside the disc where the parking brake shoes are,
problem is, i can't get the disc off to have a look,
i've taken all the adjustment off the handbrake,
i don't want to hit the disc too hard with a hammer either,
any ideas????
thanks,
neil
#4
Race Director
Re: removing rear discs (camaroneil)
They actually look like studs. About 1/2 diameter. You have to drill them out and take off the Caliper to get the rotor off. They may look slightly recessed there are 5 of them I think. The only other thing on the face of the hub are the lug studs. The rivits sit inbetween them. :cheers:
[Modified by flood, 3:04 PM 9/9/2003]
[Modified by flood, 3:04 PM 9/9/2003]
#5
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: removing rear discs (camaroneil)
When you say "all of the adjustment" do you mean on the cable or at the shoes? The drum shoes are adjusted by poking a screwdriver throught the rotor (with the wheel of) and turning a star wheel.
You could also get some brake cleaner and give it a good squirt in there. If it has just occurred it could be dust, dirt , grime build up etc
Worst case is wheel bearings. This would be more common on a higher mileage car (mine had 100K and it needed the works) but there are lots of variables.
I was fortunate that my rivets were gone. It is a very painful job to do on the car. I did my front ones on a drill press and that was difficult enough. There is an up side to having rivets, it generally means that no-one has played around in there. The downside is taht it is a 30 year old car and its going to need some TLC now to get fixed.
In the end I sent my whole training arms to Van Steel and got them to fix mine. Less stress and they came back better then new. Now I have no squeaks, no runout, a working park brake, and they look like a work of art.
Good luck
[Modified by stingry, 9:27 PM 9/9/2003]
You could also get some brake cleaner and give it a good squirt in there. If it has just occurred it could be dust, dirt , grime build up etc
Worst case is wheel bearings. This would be more common on a higher mileage car (mine had 100K and it needed the works) but there are lots of variables.
I was fortunate that my rivets were gone. It is a very painful job to do on the car. I did my front ones on a drill press and that was difficult enough. There is an up side to having rivets, it generally means that no-one has played around in there. The downside is taht it is a 30 year old car and its going to need some TLC now to get fixed.
In the end I sent my whole training arms to Van Steel and got them to fix mine. Less stress and they came back better then new. Now I have no squeaks, no runout, a working park brake, and they look like a work of art.
Good luck
[Modified by stingry, 9:27 PM 9/9/2003]
#6
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Re: removing rear discs (flood)
they must have already been removed as there are 5 holes now along with a couple othe holes which i adjust the handbrake through,
so do i just have to give it a good smack with the hammer then,
oh, and the caliper is already off,
thanks,
neil
so do i just have to give it a good smack with the hammer then,
oh, and the caliper is already off,
thanks,
neil
#7
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Re: removing rear discs (camaroneil)
i took all the adjustment off via the little wheel through the disc,
wheel bearing,, oh heck, never though of that one,
do you think the squeak could be that??????
there's no one anywhere near me in the uk that would rebuild something like that, so it would have to be blood sweat and tears,
thanks,
neil
[Modified by camaroneil, 9:28 PM 9/9/2003]
wheel bearing,, oh heck, never though of that one,
do you think the squeak could be that??????
there's no one anywhere near me in the uk that would rebuild something like that, so it would have to be blood sweat and tears,
thanks,
neil
[Modified by camaroneil, 9:28 PM 9/9/2003]
#8
Burning Brakes
Re: removing rear discs (camaroneil)
Neil
I guess you now have the car in a few pieces, but you can often get a clue if the squeak is coming form the handbrake by pulling it up a liyttle as you're driving along. If the squeak stops, you can pretty much say that the handbrake is the cause. In my experience, (OK limited to two or three cars!) a wheel bearing will "rumble" more than squeak. I thinkl I'd still work on the brake. You need to ensure that the cable is returning fully, ie, the handbrake is coming right off when you release it. The spring on the wheel end should be properly located to push the lever in the wheel back. (I spent a long time working WD40 into the cable to make sure it ran as smoothly as possible) You can do all this without removing the rotor. Unless you have a LOT of patience, don't be tempted to remove the handbrake shoes, as they are a pig to get back in without the spindle out of the way! If you do take the rotor off, you can at least get a little brake grease into the pivots etc, but take care. And, ensure that you mark where th erotors were in relation to the flange... put them back in the same place on the flange, as this may affect the runout. If you have the Haynes book the process for handbrake adjustment is described well. Remember that the lever (in the car) should come up about 12 clicks... not the 4 that the MOT man wants!
Remind me where Washington is! Im I right in thinking it's north east?? If the worst to the worst, I have a man down here in Kent who'll do the bearing rebuild, but I guess its a bit far?
I guess you now have the car in a few pieces, but you can often get a clue if the squeak is coming form the handbrake by pulling it up a liyttle as you're driving along. If the squeak stops, you can pretty much say that the handbrake is the cause. In my experience, (OK limited to two or three cars!) a wheel bearing will "rumble" more than squeak. I thinkl I'd still work on the brake. You need to ensure that the cable is returning fully, ie, the handbrake is coming right off when you release it. The spring on the wheel end should be properly located to push the lever in the wheel back. (I spent a long time working WD40 into the cable to make sure it ran as smoothly as possible) You can do all this without removing the rotor. Unless you have a LOT of patience, don't be tempted to remove the handbrake shoes, as they are a pig to get back in without the spindle out of the way! If you do take the rotor off, you can at least get a little brake grease into the pivots etc, but take care. And, ensure that you mark where th erotors were in relation to the flange... put them back in the same place on the flange, as this may affect the runout. If you have the Haynes book the process for handbrake adjustment is described well. Remember that the lever (in the car) should come up about 12 clicks... not the 4 that the MOT man wants!
Remind me where Washington is! Im I right in thinking it's north east?? If the worst to the worst, I have a man down here in Kent who'll do the bearing rebuild, but I guess its a bit far?
#9
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Re: removing rear discs (Stephen Irons)
stephen,
you're right, i'm almost on the borders of scotland so i'm a couple of miles from you,
got the disc off, everything looks ok but there is some play in the bearing,
oh weel, lifes a shyte,
neil
you're right, i'm almost on the borders of scotland so i'm a couple of miles from you,
got the disc off, everything looks ok but there is some play in the bearing,
oh weel, lifes a shyte,
neil