The Devils in the details!!! (79 cam swap, the shark has a bite)
09-04-2003, 08:24 PM
#1
Racer
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The Devils in the details!!! (79 cam swap, the shark has a bite)
I am in final stages of my cam install. I have a one piece oil pan gasket, how the dickens do you get the oil pan out? I tried dropping the power steering cylinder (unbolted from the frame, undid the cotter-pin and removed the bolt at the other end), however the threaded stud end of the cylinder was not for moving. Do I need a special tool? A puller of some kind?
While removing the exhaust crossover piece, I was nearly beaned by a fitting between the headr and exhaust flange on the passenger side, it is a spring-loaded counter balanced flapper valve. I prsume this is to maintain back-pressure etc. Do I need to keep it? It seems to me that an obstruction is lost power.
:cry
While removing the exhaust crossover piece, I was nearly beaned by a fitting between the headr and exhaust flange on the passenger side, it is a spring-loaded counter balanced flapper valve. I prsume this is to maintain back-pressure etc. Do I need to keep it? It seems to me that an obstruction is lost power.
:cry
09-04-2003, 10:33 PM
#2
Race Director
Re: The Devils in the details!!! (pik)
To remove the oilpan I pull the pitman off the steering box. Seems to be the fastest way for me.
The flapper thingy you saw is for emissions. It stays closed when the engine is cold to create an obstruction on one side of the exhaust. This pushes exhaust through the crossover, through the intake manifold, out the other side. The hot exhaust heats the intake up to reduce emissions. Once the engine warms up the flapper valve opens.
The car will run fine without it, but they may look for it at inspection.
The flapper thingy you saw is for emissions. It stays closed when the engine is cold to create an obstruction on one side of the exhaust. This pushes exhaust through the crossover, through the intake manifold, out the other side. The hot exhaust heats the intake up to reduce emissions. Once the engine warms up the flapper valve opens.
The car will run fine without it, but they may look for it at inspection.
09-04-2003, 11:49 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
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Re: The Devils in the details!!! (pik)
:nono: Okay pik, it sounds like you’re on the wrong side of that relay rod. Found that out the hard way myself. Only needed to remove the two castle nuts on the passenger side and let that relay rod drop/hang. I did ruin one of the castle nuts by turning it around and beating it to force out the tie rod end and idler arm – sacrificial nut would have saved the original castles. Always replace cotter pins with new and yes it takes some arm/wrist contorting. Also needed to remove the starter on mine for installation of pan nuts but others have reported success without.
Now that flapper valve is called a heat riser and you’ll find you need that just to take up space when you bolt the exhaust pipe back up – needed for fit up. And yes they are restrictive. They do help engine warm-up in cold climes but it’s for you to decide. A friend just knocked out the shaft with a pin driver and took out the butterfly valve. Then taped the hole and used a screw to plug. This allows fit-up and use of original pipes but lets exhaust blow straight through. Now someone was selling a spacer to replace this heat riser but don’t recall who – sorry.
:seeya
Now that flapper valve is called a heat riser and you’ll find you need that just to take up space when you bolt the exhaust pipe back up – needed for fit up. And yes they are restrictive. They do help engine warm-up in cold climes but it’s for you to decide. A friend just knocked out the shaft with a pin driver and took out the butterfly valve. Then taped the hole and used a screw to plug. This allows fit-up and use of original pipes but lets exhaust blow straight through. Now someone was selling a spacer to replace this heat riser but don’t recall who – sorry.
:seeya
