ImBatman

Need some advice on what to check for next. I have replaced all of the bulbs and the flashers that plug into the fuse panel, and the place behind the passenger dash pad. I have also replaced the turn signal switch. Still nothing! :mad No dash signals, outside lights nothing! :cry Here are a couple of questions.
1. I do not have the ground hooked up for the heater\ac controls. I have played around with this but still have had no luck. Would any grounds in the center cluster area affect the TS's?

2. I have found a pink and light green wire going into a connector exactly like the ones that a flasher would plug in to. I figured what the heck I'll plug one in. This still didn't work however I can feel a constant pulse in the flasher at the same intervals as what you would have with TS's. I looked at my wireing diagrahm and the only reference to these is a backup switch.


Any ideas or suggestions of what I could check or try next?

ImBatman

ttt :D

Jim Shea

The turn signal diagnosis chart indicates the following:

No Turn Signal Lights
A. Defective or blown fuse - Replace fuse

B. Inoperative turn signal flasher - Replace turn signal flasher

C. Loose chassis to column connector - Connect securely

D. Disconnect column to chassis connector. Connect new switch to chassis and operate switch by hand. - If vehicle lights now operate normally, signal switch was inoperative - replace signal switch

E. If vehicle lights do not operate check chassis wiring for opens, grounds, etc.

The above isn't much but it's all that I could find. You mentioned that your replaced your turn signal switch. Does connecting your old switch to the system change anything? Why did you replace the old switch?

ImBatman

Thanks for the info Jim. I replaced the TS switch because at some point in time a previous owner had spliced into the lower connector several times. There were several bare wires that were up close to the connector so that I couldn't mask them. Bought a new switch for 20 bucks from AutoZone.

The good news is the TS's are working now. :confused: The bad news is I am not really sure what I did to get them to work. :crazy: This kinda scares me. :eek: but hey beggars can't be choosers. However I still don't have emergency flashers.

Can you or anyone else ID the wire mentioned in my first post? It is a dual wire connector with a pink and light green wire going into the single connector. The connector itself is just like those used for flashers. I think it has something to do with the brake lights but not sure. Any ideas on what it is and where it goes?

Thanks again for the info.

Wade

Jim Shea

Looking at the wiring diagrams that I have, I am guessing at the following.

I don't think that you mentioned if you had a manual or automatic transmission. Do your backup lights work when you shift into reverse?

Regardless if you have a manual transmission or an automatic, there has to be a switch that closes and turns on your backup lights when you shift into reverse.

If you have a manual transmission, there is a connector with pink and light green wires that is down under the car and connects to a backup light switch that is attached to the transmission linkage down there. The switch is closed when you shift your transmission into reverse.

If you have an automatic transmission, either the same connector or a second connector with pink and light green wires connects to a neutral safety switch (which also serves as the back up light switch). However, this switch is located on the automatic shifter inside the console inside the car.

So it is possible that if you have a manual transmission you might have a connector with light green and pink wires that is extra; just sits inside your console; and connects to nothing.

The same is true if you have an automatic transmission. Then you would have an extra connector down under the car near the transmission.

Either one of the two connectors will turn on your backup lights if you connect them to a switch or connect the pink wire to the light green wire.

ImBatman

Thanks Jim. My car was origionally and automatic when I bought it. I have since removed all the auto stuff and hung the pedals for the manual conversion. I will take another look at these wires tonight when I get home. I am thinking that I connected the wires up to the switch on the brake pedal but I can't remember right now. Hopefully now that the TS's are working I'll get home today and the brake lights will work. :smash:

Thanks
Wade

Jim Shea

The backup light switch will be independent of your pedals.

I just found both the automatic transmission backup switch on the console and the special switch on the manual transmission in my AIM book. The automatic trans is shown at UPC 7A sheet #1. The manual switch is shown at UPC 12E sheet #2.

Now that you have a manual transmission, you should have an extra connector in your console. If you don't have the special switch on your manual transmission, you won't have any backup lights.

I can eMail you a scan of the manual transmission switch AIM sheet if you would like.

The manual switch number is 1993430. Unfortunately, it is no longer available from GM dealers. But I found it in my 2003 Zip Catalogue on page 143, ES-444 68-78 Back-up Light Switch $59.95.

Hope this helps.

ImBatman

Jim,

Thanks that definately helps. I didn't get your post until this am so I want be able to take a look at the AIM until I get home this evening. So essentially the pink and Light green wires are going to be used for the back up lights correct? This makes since because I have not found and other place that it could go. I did check last night and I do have the correct wires plugged into the brake switch however still no brake lights :mad . I probably want do any troubleshooting on the brake lights until this weekend. It's just to darn HOT! Supposed to have our first shot of fall weather Saturday which is my time of the year so I hopefully can finish up the electrical system and move on to something else.

BTW, Since I put the new seats in I think that I am going to have to switch to a tilt\tele wheel. I can barely get in and out of the car right now. I may be able to buy some time with a little smaller diameter steering wheel but in the long run I think that the tilt wheel will be more comfortable and safer. Anything that you know of that I should watch out for when looking for a column? What years fit? Any ideas on what one may cost?

Thanks
Wade

Jim Shea

The first thing to check is the brake light switch itself. Unplug the connector to the switch and jump the two contacts. The brake lights should light. Check continuity through the brake switch when the plunger is not compressed.

Don't forget that the brake light circuit does go through the turn signal switch. I would save the old switch so that you could connect it into the circuit to verify that your new switch is working properly.

Any Corvette T&T steering column from 1969 through 1975 will bolt right into your Vette. I would be sure to get all the telescoping hardware, horn parts, extension, and tilt & turn signal levers for that column. Your steering wheel will bolt right on the T&T column. If you want, your ignition lock cylinder can be removed from your old steering column and installed in your T&T if it is important for you to keep the keys the same.

The 1976 steering column will also bolt in. However, it has the special one year only steering wheel and telescoping hardware. So unless you get the 76 column complete with a steering wheel and all the hardware, stay away from it.

You can get a better feel for the differences between the 1969-75 steering wheel hardware and the 1976 system by downloading the following:

Go to http://www.corvettefaq.com and look in the Steering section. Download
Tilt & Telescoping 69-75 Steering Wheel and Horn Parts
Tilt & Telescoping 76 Steering Wheel and Horn Parts

ImBatman

Jim,

Thanks a million for all the help.
:thumbs:

Wade