Bob Turner

Well, some of you may remember my complaint of my 454 not having enough power, running rich, having a restrictive exhaust, not being timed correctly or the carb was not adjusted correctly.

I have a pertronix setup from the small block days. I finally checked the voltage at the coil after "remembering" that this Pertronix unit NEEDS 12 volts at the POSITIVE side of the coil.

Well, the reading is 7.3 volts!!!! :mad :mad

NO WONDER this thing has run like a 250 straight six cylinder since I got it running in DEC!!!!! :cry :cry

It's ALL my fault and I deserve to get beat up by the forum on this..... :lol:

Now I must find a 12V switched source!!!! I will look at this tomorrow!!

I still need a front left caliper before I can drive it again.....

It will be like a new motor once I get this thing fired up and driving again!! I will be hopefully frying my 245/60 R15's (even with the 3.08's)!!!!!!!

Thanks for listening!!!

Bob :cheers:

SharkAttack

At least it's a cheap, easy fix. :cheers:

shoptek

:cheers:
I think the wiper motor feed is a switched 12V, correct gauge wire, and it is close to the distributor/coil.

LAvetteman

:iagree:

I believe it is a green wire, possibly yellow.

Desertdawg

:boxing :lol: :lol: :lol:

You should have come over to Bryan's on Saturday, we could have beat on you then. :thumbs:

PRNDL

all those symptoms from not having 12 volts on the pertronix? Let us know (I am sure you will!) if that solves all your problems, but I am a little doubtful. MJ

conway62

Get rid of the pertronix. Solved my issues..

QuickVet

:iagree:

Jvette73

When you do find a source for full 12v hook it up in addition to the resisted connection. That way if one soruce fails the other will still be there to keep you running. Ive had good luck with pertronix. The only time I had problems was when I messed something up. I carry spare points and condenser and nessisary wires to slap the points back in should the pertrinix ever fail. i like that feature of having a backup on board all the time. I ran my 12v source from a keyed on connection at the fuse box.

Bob Turner

You guys are right here. Dump the pertronix.

I did get my leaking brake caliper back on to see if I could get the car to run and drive it.

I ran a 12+ volts switched source to the coil. Now I have 1.80 volts on the positive side of the coil when I turn the key to the "on" position. :mad: :mad: :mad:

So, it's either 7.3 volts or 1.8 volts.... Screw this POS. I will buy a Summit racing HEI unit this week and be DONE with it......

F*** pertronix!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Hopefully this will improve how the car runs. As MNJACK said, it may not fix all of my issues. That remains to be seen....

Bob :cheers: (trying to keep a good attitude here)

KJL

If you go to the box you will find a switched source that will STAY energized when the key is turned to "start" the car. The problem with most of the hot sources under the hood is that when you start the car, things like the wipers stop until the car starts and the key is released to the run position. The Pertronix unit requires power at start up. I have the Pertronix and now am running the Pertonix II. They run great once you get them wired correctly. Your problem will not go away with an HEI. If you are running a resistor wire to your coil you will have to bypass that with an HEI distributor or find another correct 12 V source as well.

Alwyn678

:iagree:


[Modified by Alwyn678, 11:19 AM 9/2/2003]

Bob Turner

KJL,

Excellent point. I didn't test the 12 volt source (the idle control for the a/c from the Rochester carb) while in the "start" position. Thank you for the info here. I will search for a good 12 volt source before I install the HEI....

Bob :cheers:

KJL

Glad to be of help. The idle control will not work, been there...done that. Works great for an electric choke though! :cheers:

stingry

Bob,

You are not alone. I checked mine I have 4.55 and 8.22 volts.

Probably expalins why it sounded like a steam engine!

Looking for 12 volts now!!:eek:

Pete

KJL

Once you find that elusive 12 volt source, hook it up to a volt meter or light bulb, then crank you engine to make sure it comes on when the key is turned and stays while the engine is being cranked. Don't hook this up to you coil, leave your coil alone with the stock wire in place. Wire the Pertronix unit (the red lead) directly to the 12 volts and the black lead to the negative terminal on your coil. Let me know how it goes.

Bob Turner

stingry,

Wow! I am glad you checked yours!!! Let us know what power gains you achieve with 12+!!!!

Bob :cheers:

wayne_69_427

At least you found the problem :cheers:

Bob Turner

KJL or anyone else---

Any ideas for a 12+volt switched source that stays on when cranking the motor?

I have the new HEI installed, new plugs and wires in and now I am looking for the 12 volts.

Thanks again for the help!

Bob :cheers:

Smokehouse69

I used a $6.00 relay from Radio Shack, a four terminal type automotive relay. The way it works is that I hooked my original resistor wire to the activation terminal, this way when the key is in the start or run postion the relay will latch up. I got continous 12v to the power side of the relay from the 2 gauge 12v terminal at the starter (the big one that is connected to the battery cable.) I ran a 12 gauge wire from there up to the relay with a 20 amp inline fuse. The other side of the power relay goes to the HEI distributor. So when the ignition switch is in the start or run, the low voltage resistor wire that comes from the iqnition switch activates the relay sending power from the starter terminal through the relay to the distibutor.
I have been running this for about 1 year and it works flawlessly.