chevyzip

Hi,
I'm new here and did never have anything to do with corvettes but now a very special car draws my attention.
It's a 69 Stingray.The car is in poor condition but when then the tag in the console behind the shifter mad me surprised!
On the left side there was a 427 and on the right side........talk about rare.
How can I identify which engine option the car had originally and where do I find the block numbers?Also how can I tell that the car is not a clone?
:confused:
Daniel


[Modified by chevyzip, 12:49 PM 8/25/2003]

427basketcase

Well first things first. Look for a build sheet inside of the car, if not then on the topside of the gas tank (that will take a little work) those would tell you exactly what the car came from the factory with. If there is no build sheet then you will have to do some detective work. As far as the engine in the car you can look at the casting numbers (rear of the block, drivers side just before the bellhousing) if it is a real 69 427 the casting # should be 3963512 next look at the engine stamp # (front of the block, passenger side just in front of the head on a flat surface) that number should have part of the cars VIN stamped in it with a 2 digit suffix that you can decode later for the HP.
That is just a start.
Common sense can tell you a lot also, look for original looking clamps, ignition sheilding, rad size, anything modified? ect
What is the redline on the tach? What does the oil pressure gauge max at?
There are a lot of little things that can give you clues as to what the car was originaly equiped with.
Post more details and if you can some pictures, the people here on the forum are probably the best collective source of knowledge you can find anywhere!

chevyzip

Thanks for your reply 427 basketcase!
I'll soon look at the car again and check some things.
For the things I know:
-The redline on the tach was from 60 to 75 I believe.
(I'm sure of the 75 but don't know where the red line begins..)
-The car looked very modified(big wheels etc.)
-Also I remember the car had the original big block hood(looked like cowl induction)
-The rear of the car looked very modifiedand it seemed to have a special braking system!!
it had a Muincie 4 speed and I believe there was no radio and no other extras!
:eek:
I'm going to check the vin and I'll try to look for some other things
Daniel

Fevre

OK so what was on the right side?

BTW My 73 has the trim tag from a 70 LT1.


[Modified by Fevre, 3:18 PM 8/25/2003]

chevyzip

Don't laugh at me..I believe it's a clone!!!
But I want to check it though cause there's a l88 on the right side!
Daniel.
I don't want to start any discussions here about if the car is original or not.
I don't even believe that this car is a real one.
But I though wanted to know if the plate has been taken from another car etc.
Daniel

Fevre

Hey you never know, some people are clueless when it comes to what they got. Hope it is your pot of gold. :cheers:

chevyzip

Hey fevre,
Thank you!I hope so ,too.But if the car is real I won't have a profit of it in money.
I'll just restore it proffesionally and drive it for myself!
Daniel

427basketcase

Is the 427 on the left you are talking about the little data tag on the shifter Console? something like 427ci 435hp XXX torque L88 ?
If so, anyone can buy replacement tags out of a catalog with anything they want (or was available) and stick on the console. So don't be too fast to beleive that if that is what your talking about.

dath

:iagree: Also, if it really did turn out the be real, which is very unlikely, there is *NO WAY* I would drive that car for myself. I would sell it in a heart beat as I'm not rich and I just want a fun car to drive, not something that is $100K+ collectible... Maybe that's just me. It's so unlikely that it is the real deal anyhow, so this is just academic talk... :D

ddecart

The guys in factory correct resto http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=77 will be able to better list some specifics. Things to look for and make note of:
1) block casting number
2) head casting number (tougher to see)
3) tach redline
4) number of fuel lines running along the frame
5) halfshaft u-joing caps (real caps BB, or u-bolts SB)

Some things are more difficult to replace than others. To truely clone a car is a pretty involved task.

427basketcase

Another other thing that would tell if it really was an L88, Right behind the shifter data plate there should be another tag that warns against using gasoline below 102 octane.

LemansBlue68

If you are really serious about the car, first buy one of the better Corvette books like Richard Prince's book for '68-'82's It has lots of pictures to help with identification. Alvin Colvin's "Corvette by the Numbers" is a good one too. Better yet, find a knowledgeable Forum member in your area to take a look with you. Just ask, there's lots of guys here that would help you out. I took a look at a car last summer for a guy from Chicago who was interested in one in my area.

FASGLAS

:withstupid: Even if the warning sticker is missing, there should, under very close inspection, be some evidence of it having been there...

chevyzip

I looked at the car again but there was no sticker!
I would need to check if there ever was a sticker on this console!
Good news is that it has many parts that would match an l88 like 6500 redline tach , l88 hood, etc..
For now,where do I have to look for the fuel lines and other interessting places?
I'll buy the Corvette Guide.For now I didn't have a chance to look any further places of the vette because the owner doesn't know what he has and even claims to chrush the car.I said if he'd do so he should give me a phone call cause I'd take the car before he'll do it!!Next time I went to the guy I think I'll ask him if I could get the car right now for a few bucks. :thumbs:
I'll keep u updated about this strange car.....
cheers,
Daniel

chevyzip

I forgot:
@68le mans blue:Thanks for your help but I think I'll first buy the car as I can get it cheap.I don't want the owner to find out what he eventually has.Later I can ask one of you guys,too.I didn't even take any pics as I didn't want him to find out that I'm that interested in his car as I'll for sure get it for few bucks if I keep a good relationship to him!
Daniel

chevyzip

Ok,
I looked at the car an hour ago and I now know a couple things.
-The tach redline goes from 65 to 70 (definetly looked like the one used in all l88 and zl1)
-The oil pressure goes from 0 to 7.
-The car had the two little ***** on the console.Both had a white "CLOSE" on them!
-The 103 octane sticker was removed,but it looked like there was still some glue in its place.
I also wrote down the vin .What can I find out with it other than it's year and body style?
THANKS,
Daniel

Tom73

Those are the fresh air vents for the interior.

tom...

sammyb

Chevyzip:

Very important and easy things to do:

1) Crawl under the rear of the car. Look and see if it has two fuel lines (a fuel send and fuel return.) If it has two lines, it's a fake.
2) Open the hood and look at the front driver's side...right behind the headlight. There should be a K66 ignition box there, or at least the 4 mounting holes for it.
3) I believe all L88s came with heavy duty suspension, so it should be a 7 leaf rear spring instead of 9.

I'm curious what his asking price is (and what do you think is a "steal") for a '69 Coupe that may or may not be a L88. Don't buy into the hood...I have one on my 427/435hp car. They are the cheapest hoods to buy, and popular with guys who need more manifold clearance.

And please, if this is a restoration project, don't think you're on a real goldmine. '69 L88s in extremely nice restored condition sell for $80K. NCRS certified concours condition cars will sell for around $100K, but it will take nearly $100K in restoration bills to get it there.