Painting/Clearcoat Question
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Painting/Clearcoat Question
Not the best timing, but I decided to paint my fender right before the Carlisle show tomorrow. I had a quick question about the set-up of the clearcoat.
I lightly sanded after applying the paint and applied a "tack coat" of clearcoat, waited 1/2 hour and went back for the first "wet coat". I added a second wet coat and later a light third. Each coat was allowed 1/2 hr to 1 hr before applying the next. The clearcoat seems to have a light texture as it landed on the clean surface. I was told this was sandable. Should I go 1200 and 1500, clear again and then sand 1200/1500/2000 and buff?
Thanks in advance.
Matt
I lightly sanded after applying the paint and applied a "tack coat" of clearcoat, waited 1/2 hour and went back for the first "wet coat". I added a second wet coat and later a light third. Each coat was allowed 1/2 hr to 1 hr before applying the next. The clearcoat seems to have a light texture as it landed on the clean surface. I was told this was sandable. Should I go 1200 and 1500, clear again and then sand 1200/1500/2000 and buff?
Thanks in advance.
Matt
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Painting/Clearcoat Question (WashingtonRacer)
Thanks. Getting ready to buff. I sanded with 1200 then 2000.
I'll let everybody know how it comes out.
I'll let everybody know how it comes out.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Painting/Clearcoat Question (WashingtonRacer)
I have a clear coat question - but for my truck.
It was painted a light blue / turquoise color that does not have a clear coat. I cleaned, polished and waxed the hood. About 3 months later, it has the same chalky light blue appearance and no longer has depth and shine.
Can I get this paint polished and then have clear coat shot over it ? As it is, this paint is way too much maintenance and will require polishing and waxing monthly to look good.
It was painted a light blue / turquoise color that does not have a clear coat. I cleaned, polished and waxed the hood. About 3 months later, it has the same chalky light blue appearance and no longer has depth and shine.
Can I get this paint polished and then have clear coat shot over it ? As it is, this paint is way too much maintenance and will require polishing and waxing monthly to look good.
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: Painting/Clearcoat Question (70454)
Matt, I have to add my 2 cents to this post after reading about your method. First, if your car is metallic, sanding the base before applying the clear could cause the sand scratches to show under the clear. I don't know what clear you used but most urethane clears will get rough and dry appearing when applying the first coat dry as a tack coat. The pros apply the first coat wet and smooth because each subsequent coat will track the first. Next I would not wait the 1/2 to 1 hour between the coats of clear. You only need to wait until it is tacky or not stringy when touched,( on a piece of the masking). The longer you wait between the coats the more dust and dirt will fall on the surface. As for the buffing, if you have adequate film build you can sand out the texture and buff to a shine.
I don't mean to criticize your methods, I just trying to help others that might be doing a paint project soon. Have a great time at Carlisle. See you there. Craig
I don't mean to criticize your methods, I just trying to help others that might be doing a paint project soon. Have a great time at Carlisle. See you there. Craig
#7
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Re: Painting/Clearcoat Question (CF6873)
Well I remember Jon Kozmoski recommending a tack coat of paint before the wet coat(s) so I think it is a valid procedure.
I do agree with the 'don't sand metalics' comment, you will sand down to the metal flakes and you will be sorry! ( but you could spray another wet coat over it)
But the wet sand and polish should make it pretty :D
I do agree with the 'don't sand metalics' comment, you will sand down to the metal flakes and you will be sorry! ( but you could spray another wet coat over it)
But the wet sand and polish should make it pretty :D
#8
Re: Painting/Clearcoat Question (427V8)
I believe alot of people find much better results by spraying a light first coat, This helps all coats there after hold in place much better. If you apply a good wet coat as the first coat there is a much greater chance the you will get runs. And sanding down the little bit of roughness that exists far out weighs the possibility of sanding down the runs that may exist. In the end luckly enough clear is very forgiving, you can sand as much clear is there, so dust on the surface runs, anything can all be removed if done properly. but we all knew that already, so I don't even know why I am writing this.