7t2vette

1) The front coil springs: I have four different manuals (factory,AIM,Chiltons, and Haynes), which all say something different about which hole, top or botom, the end of the coil spring should cover half of, so, which is it? I think the bottom.
2) The power steering power valve: What is the torque for the power valve to frame bracket nut? In the manuals, I find 25 ftlb, and that torque seems to squish the rubber grommet way to much. It also puts the castle nut way past the cotter pin hole, so, what is the proper torque?
3) The upper control arms: After putting them on, I realized that they could be interchanged from side to side, so, how can I tell the left(drivers) from the right(passengers)?
4) The front sway bar: I have a Vette Brakes front sway bar, and it can go on with the "hump" in the middle of the bar either up or down, so , which way does it go? I was told that the "hump' was to go up on the rear, I wonder if the front is the same.

Thanks in advance!!
:cool:

VegasJen

1) huh?
2) i treat them just like a shock bushing. tighten until it's just deflecting and pin it.
3) if you look directly down on the a-arms, you could draw an imaginary line from the ball joint to each bushing. the bushing further away is the front. in other words, the ball joint will sit behind the centerline of the cross shaft.
4) it's been awhile so i'm not so sure about this one. if the ends don't have any angle, i'd suggest you mount it the same way as the rear.
if the ends are angled, i'm guessing it should be mounted where the angles point up when the bar is horizontal.
so there you go. i may be wrong so hopefully someone else will jump in here and correct me on this if so.

7t2vette

Thanks for your help. In question #1, I am referring to the 1/4" drain hole that is in the lower control arm spring pocket and the same hole that is in the frame spring pocket. The manuals tell you to align the very end of the the last coil of the spring halfway over one of these holes, and I want to find which one is the correct one.

sray454

#1 - it is the hole in the top - got this from a Bloomington Gold instructor

rponfick

Can it be the hole it the top? I just installed mine and there is no way to orient the top of the spring since you have to force it up into the top pocket. With a spring compressor you can line up the bottom hole, but I can't imagine how you would get the upper in the correct place. Does any of this make any sense?

Simul8

In ref to question #1- I believe the VanSteel video states to line it up to the bottom hole.

7t2vette

I guess I should also mention that my front springs are Vette Brakes 550lb springs, which are shorter than stock. I am also doing this with no body on the frame, so lining the coil up with the top hole isn't a problem, but i have always aligned it to the bottom hole on every other car i have done this on before.

rponfick

Sounds like we're doing the same thing. My body and engine are also off the frame, so you have little weight to compress the spring by jacking up the lower control arm. I used a spring compress through the lower control arm and worked the spring up into the pocket, keeping the lower hole 1/2 covered. I have the shorter than stock springs also, but still had to force the spring over in the upper pocket. I do not think I could have done it by aligning the upper hole first. I also noticed that the coil ends on the shorter spring do not line up in the same places as the stock spring, so the ends of the new spring will not be the same place as the stock spring. I hope all this makes sense. Just my comments.

aussiejohn

7t2vette,
re Q3, I have a feeling that the left one has "L" stamped on it and the right one has "R". Holden do it to theirs, so we can't stuff up, and I think the Vettes do it too, but am not sure. :chevy

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

rponfick

Hey, aussiejohn, looks like we have questions on the same thread. The CCC misses you and your gang, come back to see us again. Regarding your left/right comment, I think the a-arms are just marked for you guys down under. Everyone knows that things are all opposite in the southern hemisphere. Regards, Ralph.

By the way, we need another lesson on the difference between bourbon and whiskey, we've forgotten the answer.

7t2vette

I used a spring compressor through the top shock mount hole, and it was much easier than up through the bottom of the lower control arm. The spring is currently aligned with the hole on the bottom, and I will leave it that way. I checked the control arms to make sure the ball joint was offset to the rear, and they are. That still leaves me with to questions;

1) what is the torque on the power steering power valve to frame bracket nut? I checked all my manuals again, and they all state 25 ftlb which squishes the bushing completely, and puts the castle nut way behind the cotter pin hole!
2) does the hump on the front sway bar go up or down? it is the sway bar in the Vette Brakes SS front suspension kit.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

aussiejohn

Ralph,
Thanks for your kind words - we also miss you and can't wait to get back to your wonderful country to see you all again. :party:
Now, onto the cars. I tried to reply 24 hours ago but the computer froze up completely just before I finished typing and I lost it all. It was after 1 am so I went to bed. Now, it is my opinion that C2 and C3's have FOUR main design faults in their front suspension. I would like your comments to let me know if I'm on the right track. As I understand it, the 1963 Corvette used 1962 Chevrolet passenger car front suspension pieces (A-arms etc.) in order to keep the cost down, but the whole geometry does not lend itself to radial tyres, mainly due to the (lack of) caster angle. Also, the upper and lower A-arms are not parallel, which exaggerates bump steer, and the tie rods are too short, which also affects bump steer. To top it off, the steering box is a manual one with a fixed ratio befitting a non power assisted set up.

I have read with much interest the input of Norval and Twin Turbo and others and respect their knowledge and advice on how to improve PARTS of the standard system. However, is it worth discussing what would be the IDEAL front suspension in a C2/C3? Here are my ideas. Please pick them apart and let me know what you think.

1. STEERING BOX. Should be a variable ratio around 12:1 straight ahead
with a tighter ratio near the locks. MUST have internal
power assistance and be able to bolt onto a Corvette
frame with no modifications. Steering shaft MAY have
to be shortened.

2. DRAG LINK. Needs to have the inner tie rod holes closer together
so as to minimise bump steer. Longer tie rods to suit.

3. UPPER A-ARM. Needs to have the ball joint mounted further to the rear
so as to increase caster as Norval has done, but not with
slotted holes.

4. SPINDLE. I have read an article where a "spacer" was used
between the uper A-arm and the top of the spindle. The
result of this was to make both A-arms closer to parallel
which improved handling. Norval has spoken of designing
a spindle that was "taller" and had the same effect
without the need for a spacer.

If these four components were to be manufactured and readily available, then I believe that the cars would handle so much better with today's tyres and springs (including composite) and would sell like hotcakes. Because they would all be bolt on, the car could be returned to original if desired. What are your thoughts, gentlemen?

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn