vvv90

I've started talking about it on another thread. Here's the story.

Frame is solid and undercarriage and windshield frame is NOT rusty at all. Rebuilt rear end, rebuilt original motor to ~400HP (dyno'd) 1000 miles, rebuilt 400 tranny, Wheels are in good shape, has black soft top in "MINT" condition. The car has had body panels replaced and has been taken down to bare glass. He won't take less than $9,000

NEEDS:

Front chrome bumper and bumperettes = ~$500
Paint = ~$2500
door skins = ???
carpet = $200
tires = ~$500

total invested = ~$ 13-14k for Excellent shape 69 vert.

supposedly it doesn't need anymore body work except for an original style hood, minor door dings, and new front bumper.

here are some pics.

JB

$9K seems fair, but not great for a smallblock vert in that condition. A little more info would help. Get a leak down test done on the motor. Hard to tell from the pics what the interior condition is like. Are all the missing body pieces accounted for (back vent covers, etc)? It also seems to be missing the original steering wheel and the headrests, both somewhat expensive parts to replace. I'd rather pay $7 or $8K for it, myself.

JB



[Modified by JB, 2:51 PM 8/15/2003]

killain

Looks like it could shape up into a nice convert 69, however I'm not seeing a lot of parts and there is some major work yet to be done. are you willing to get involved in a years worth of work?

vvv90

ALL of the pieces are accounted for except the ones I listed that need to be replaced.

The car is stripped ready for paint, that's why it looks to be lacking everything down to the rims.

sb69coupe

Does it come with the wiper door, linkages, actuator, and such? There has to be a reason that the later model long hood was put on there. Likely because the aftermarket intake/carb/air cleaner won't fit under a stock smallblock hood. I assume it's a smallblock car, therefore it was a base model 300hp motor since it has the TH400 trans. Also, those don't appear to be '69 seats.

I think you're probably being optimistic on the amount of $$$ it will take to get this to be a "excellent shape 69 vert". Are all the emblems in new condition? You won't want to put old emblems on a new paint job. Same for side mirror, tail light lenses, license plate bezel, exhaust tips and bezels, etc. There are lots of little parts that add up. Been there, done that.

If body panels have been replaced I'd look very carefully at the frame for damage. Have you seen this car in person? You should definitely inspect it and have someone knowledgeable on C-3's go with you to do a thorough inspection and evaluation.

Shannon

74-Roadster

$9,000 for all of the work still remaining seems high IMO. I say, let him finish the car inside and out, then give him $14,000. It's gonna take another $7,000 - $10,000 before it's done and he'll have a hard time getting much more than $14,000 unless she's in A1 mint condition. Take a look at what you can buy for $14,000. Get the best car you can afford.

vvv90

THANK YOU! That's the kind of information I was looking for. I think I'm going to take a pass on this one.

Thanks.

sb69coupe

I just saw your post under the previous topic. You should definitely inspect the car in person and ask to see receipts of the work that was done. Were the rear wheel bearings done when the differential was rebuilt? Get the car on a lift and really go over it. The car may be a decent buy at $9k IF:

- It is solid and all the original parts are there (wiper door, trim, etc)
- No frame rust and the frame is correctly restored, painted, etc
- the front suspension is in good shape, bushings, ball joints, etc
- the rear suspension has been redone, including bushings and wheel bearings
- brakes have been redone with new calipers, hoses, and master cylinder

And, most importantly... If you are willing to put your time into working on the car yourself. If you'd have to pay someone to replace brakes, rebuild the carb, time the motor, or any other DIY type repairs you'll quickly find yourself with lots of cash dumped into any old car.

I see lots of aftermarket stuff under the hood, and many factory parts missing. It all depends on what you want to do with the car, and if you can do the work yourself. I really don't want to sound so negative, but the other guys here are right on the money. This car would require quite a bit of time to get it "restored" properly, and on the road looking good.

Shannon

GrandSportC3

I wouldn't spend $9k for it.. even though 9k isn't expensive...


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 12:37 AM 8/16/2003]

427V8

Too much work required to be worth 9K. 6k sure, but you have a lot more to do there than you realise

Surfer69

Be careful. Mine started at 14 and seemed to just need interior and minor stuff. One year and 5-6K later we're almost at perfection.

sammyb

Walk away!!!

Offer him $4500, give him your contact info. He'll call you when he gets itchy to sell it in a few months.

If you have patience, you can walk away with amazing deals on C3s.

74-Roadster

[QUOTE] . . . Offer him $4500, give him your contact info. He'll call you when he gets itchy to sell it in a few months.

If you have patience, you can walk away with amazing deals on C3s./QUOTE]

Sammy, you're My kind of guy. He who has the money, should always be in control. Once you make an offer, it's pretty hard to go lower. :yesnod:

Chuck Gongloff

I think you're dreaming if you think you can have an "excellent condition" 69 by putting about 4K into this car for paint, chrome, etc.

TONS of work there, very costly and time consuming work even if you do it yourself. If you're paying someone at $50-$70 per hour, you'll have a ton of money in this car. Is it an original motor car? Looks like lots of incorrect "stuff" under the hood. You can buy a NCRS Top Flight 69 small block roadster in the 20's. Chuck

marky mark

What they said.

I have a '69 vert and I can assure you that to do what is needed will shock you and put a serious dent in your wallet, not to mention the countless hours you will need to spend on this restoration. Do you have the time to spend?

Much much better off getting one that is already done. Or one that has a good body and bad motor, etc.

The missing pieces and body work (not to mention any engine or trans work is where you will be spending the $. For a pro paint job you need to double, if not triple your budgeted amount.

Also, no matter what you buy. Inspect the title and match the vin #'s.

Good luck.

Oh, by the way. If you really want to spend some $ buy a big block and rebuild the motor & trans twice. Ouch!!!

Regards, Mark :flag :chevy