JB

Got my old one pulled, getting ready to install the new one. I know I can just tap in on with a brass hammer, but I'm told that's hard on both the balancer and the bearings. Nobody locally carries the installer tool. Is there any reason why I can't just get a longer version of the center bolt that goes into the snout of the crank and use the big washer that holds the balancer on to pull it on until the longer bolt bottoms out, then use the original bolt to snug it the rest of the way?

JB

PatsLs1vette

never bang on a balancer,never,you could use a long bolt and washers if you have too.if you were closer id lend you my tool.


[Modified by patsnitrovette, 2:48 PM 8/13/2003]

Fevre

That is what I have done. Lube up the crank snout and the threads with some ARP thread lube and it slides on pretty easy. Also put a little lube between the bolt head the washer, I use a second thinner washer just to keep the bolt head from scoring the thick washer.

sb69coupe

Get as long a bolt as you can find, along with a nut that will fit on the bolt. Thread the nut all the way up the bolt until it is against the head of the bolt. Put on a big washer. Fully thread the bolt into the crank, then use the nut to run down the threads and draw the balancer onto the nose of the crankshaft. Back the bolt out and install the correct bolt and torque to spec.

:cheers:

gerry72

You could use a bolt to pull it on but if you can, get a threaded rod that you can screw into the crank, put the balancer on, put two greased washers over the rod then a nut on the rod. This will allow you to use the greased washers and nut to pull the balancer on rather than risk pulling the threads in the crank. That is substantially all the installer tool is anyway.

JB

All right, thanks guys. Regarding the ARP thread lube--I was going to use anti-seize to lube it with. Any reason I shouldn't?

JB

Jughead

I've seen written in an old engine rebuild book about using anti-sieze or simple oil. I used anti-sieze.

Larry B.

That's the only safe method. The key is to make sure that the bolt is bottomed in the crank so you are not stressing the threads in the crank.

GTR1999

Summit has a real nice SB Chevy installer/remover kit. I just used it and it worked great. It might be worth a look for you.
Gary

Guest

Autozone has balancer remover and installer that they will loan you with a down payment that you get back after returning tools. :)

mrvette

DAMN, guys I been using a block of wood and a heavy hammer about 3 lbs for decades and never had a problem....but sure the hammer has to be cushioned....and a wood block is about right....jeez....

GENE

Fevre

Gene

Still using leeches too? :jester

ddecart

That is exactly what I recommend.
Thanks for saving me the time to type that!

Tom454

The outer ring of the balancer is pressed onto the inner hub with a rubber separator in-between. When a torsional vibration is encountered, the outer ring "flexes" on the rubber separator. This is what cancels out the vibration... it is "absorbed" by the motion of the outer ring with respect to the inner hub. Whacking it with a hammer can break the bond between the two parts and render the balancer non-functional, even though it may never slip or fly apart (typically it does slip over time). Also, when you whack on the balancer & thus the crank snout, you are also whacking on the thrust bearing and main bearing cap. All of these things are a "no-no". You may not have a problem immediately, and you may not ever have a problem.... but it's definitely... (oh boy here it comes...) "bubba" to bang on a harmonic balancer to install it.

Shannon's (sb69coupe) idea is way cool... it's essentially the same thing as using the tool and saves the crank threads from abuse. Using bolts to pull the balancer on is fine, but eventually the crank threads will fail.

Tom... Formerly DBA Lake Machine... professional engine builder. No longer for hire unless you're really cute in a bikini.





[Modified by Tom454, 9:24 AM 8/14/2003]

Surfer69

It seems that if you could support the crank from the flywheel side so no load is taken by the bearing and caps you should be able to bubba it on with no effect to anything? Like resting the flywheel end against a wall, then use rubber mallot in center portion of HB. I just did that.

Tom454

As long as you PRESS it on... that is ok. If you POUND it on, you still run the risk of separating the two halves of the balancer. This damage is more likely than bearing damage. I press the old 327 balancers on with a press because they do not have threads in the crank snout.

ANY hammering of a balancer is not good... regardless of how you support the crank.

When you pound the center hub, the outer ring which is mounted in rubber, wants to come off the hub. It's a mass/inertia thing. You just cannot pound on these things... they are not designed to be hammered on no matter what.

If you look in the (very) old GM service manuals, there was a tool which was designed to hold the outer & inner sections together allowing the assembly to be hammered on... without causing damage. Unless you have this tool (no longer available) then you must use a different method. I.E.- either a press or an installation tool of some sort.




[Modified by Tom454, 11:17 AM 8/14/2003]

UKPaul

Very good advice :yesnod: I regularly work on a type of clutch which is composed of an outer part fitted to the inner part by a tight splined fit. Very often Bubba has destroyed the thread machined into the inner part for attaching the correct puller. So how do I separate the 2 parts? I gently hit the inner part!!! The shock of hitting it repeatedly inwards makes the outer slide off outwards.
The threaded rod mentioned above is bang on. For an even safer way, get hold of a stud (threaded rod) that will bottom out in the crank thread & which has a finer thread on the other end (various engineering/hardware suppliers should be able to dig out a suitable stud). Then use a nut and a few greased washers to pull the HD on. With a fine thread on the stud/nut you'll be pulling the HD on more slowly (less resistance) & if a thread strips it's more likely to be the fine one, which will ensure that you don't damage the thread in the crank :)
:cheers:

Tom454

http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/produ...J74FSANRVV58SC

http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/produ...J74FSANRVV58SC

BSeery

That's the way I do it !

mrvette

I dunno guys, I been banging away for so long, my special tool is sore.....

but then again, if you got the right stuff, it's certainly better....

there are daze when you go with what you got.....

frankly I bang with care and tenderness, and have never broken a rubber yet....

GENE