BB wowbagger

What the Pros and Cons with building a 496..I have started to look for the different parts going in to my engine and stumbled over this idea.. :cheers: :thumbs:

gkull

I have only owned one stroker Big Block. It was a bored out 496 which made it a 510 ci. The power change with all the same parts between a 454 and 496 is an addition 50 foot lbs of torque.

BB wowbagger

What kind of bore does it need and can i use "standard" .030 pistons? :cheers:

Brettmc

Isn't that a .060 over 454 block and a 4.25" crank? I don't think are any cons, just pros!!!!

Brett :thumbs:

Corey_68

You are 100% correct. :yesnod: The only cons is that you will a need longer rod (don't we all :lol:) for the 4.25 crank and also the block will need to be machined for the crank to fit.

:cheers:

Bob Turner

I know that you may have to buy a stroker oil pan for the 496.....


Bob

norvalwilhelm

The 496 doesn't need special longer rods. The stroke while 1/4 inch longer is actually only 1/8th further down and 1/8th high up to equal the 1/4 inch stroker., Lingenfelter actually sometimes used stock 454 pistons and decked the top by .100 to keep from hitting the head and at the same time giving 0 deck height.
The oil pan and bottom end will clear fine. It is a worthwhile displacement increase to really wake the 454 up. You can use .030 fine and you just give up a few cubic inches but save the block for furture cleanup.
So if you are buying a crank and pistons anyway go for it. Nothing else needs to be changed.

BB wowbagger

So its possible to use standard rods,pistons and a 4.25" crank without trouble? :smash: :cheers:

Corey_68

I thought you'd have to get different pistons w/ a shorter skirt or a longer rod? :confused:

Noval I thought by using the stock rods would throw the piston to rod ratio off and results in a 1.44?? Most 496 kits use 6.385 rods and this would give you a ratio of 1.55. I would be a little concerned turning a 496 up with all that stress on those rods.


:yesnod:

J. Swisher

I would look at SRP pistons to go into this combo. They can use stock or plus length rods, and there are different oversizes available 30, 60, 70, 100. http://flatlanderracing.com/ or here http://speedomotive.com/. Might want to look here, they have a bunch of different combinations available that should work

norvalwilhelm

I have a good article on Lengenfelters 496, 623 horse build up. He uses a standard 2 bolt main block, stock 3/8th bolt rods and stock seal power pistons with the dome cut .010 and a .100 cut on the dome to clear the head. I would just buy the proper pistons with the clearance already done. The crank bolts right in without modifications but turn the crank over slowly when assembled to make sure all the rods clear the oil pan skirt. They sometimes tick in a few places and just a light cleanup with a grinder in these spots is all that is needed.
For his combination he recommends the 288R comp cam with .244 duration.
This motor idled like a stocker and still put out 623 horse and was built as an economy motor.
So with just a stroker crank and matching pistons that is all you need.
Remember a 1/4 inch stroker is really only 1/8th inch longer . The rod only moves 1/8th inch further down the hole and 1/8th further up into the head, not 1/4 inch so it is very small difference from stock.

Flareside

Scat is even selling affordable cranks now that are built specifically for the 4.25" stroke, stock 6.135" rod combo. The counterweights are clearanced so that the pistons fit with the short stock rod. If this car is basically a weekend toy, I wouldn't be worried about the stroke/rod ratio at all.

Like the others said, I would go with something like an SRP piston that's built just for that combo. Modified 454 pistons would work just fine too if you've got the skills (Norval obviously does!), but if you can't machine them yourself the cost may be higher in the end.

BB wowbagger

Norval,that combo sounds like something i would build.I`ve got the cam and 2 bolt block allready :thumbs:
The big question is how far you would dare to push the 3/8 rod in Rpm,before it decides to exit the engine by a hole in the block.I`ve 3/8 rods with ARP bolts in them.
I think i`ll buy a complete kit with pistons and all,just to be on the safe side of things,because i think its the wrong place to start cutting corners.
Which company sells the "Most bang for buck" stroker kits? :smash: :cheers:

norvalwilhelm

The Lengenfelter motor was taken to 6500 with the 3/8th rods and this is a torque monster. I think close to 500FT LBS by 2000 rpm. No need to rev the thing that high. Stick to around 6000 and it will live fine.
As for deals I don't have a clue but Flareside said Scat.
I have heard that it makes a big difference over the 454 and you can stick to .030 overbore and give up just a few cubic inches.


[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 9:53 AM 8/6/2003]

BB wowbagger

What kind of crank did he use? Cast or Forged.I belive your kinda pushing your luck going over 6Krpm with a cast crank. :confused: :cheers:

Flareside

I got my assembly from the place J. Swisher mentioned above, Flatlander. Great service and prices. I paid around $1600 for a Scat 4340 forged crank, Scat H-beam rods, SRP forged pistons, rings, pins, clips, Clevite H bearings.

You can also build this combo with an aftermarket cast crank and hypereutectic pistons for around $1000. Call Flatlander and talk to Phil (the owner), he'll give you good advice for your usage.