azswede1960

I have received some really good advice and here is what I have so far:
NO Honking

1) Horn works when I apply 12V & ground
2) If I have hood up, and press down on the hood switch, I hear the relay click
3) Door switches work, as the dome light comes on when door is opened
4) T-Tops are on and I beleive they are pushed in enough........
5) Haven't done anything w/ flasher yet, figured I would wait until I get horn and see if it is pulsing......

What next? :confused:

daves80

take off the left tunnel cover and unplug the flasher - if you ground the wire to the flasher from the horn it should honk - if not check for 12v to horn side of flasher - then ground the relay side of the flasher it should pulse and honk -if it does then while still unpluged - hook a ohmmeter to wire from the flasher to relay and the other lead to ground - close hood, latch tops and close doors - arm by turning the drivers door key to lock - reach in through window and open the door - should show connection to ground on ohmmeter - if not - replace the relay- remember the system is activated by the connection to ground - good luck - dave


[Modified by daves80, 9:43 AM 8/5/2003]

Kevin_73

I'm not sure about your year, but in my 73 there are seperate door switches for the dome light and the alarm.
There is one switch in each door at the lower front which is for the dome light, the alarm switch is located down low at the rear of the door.

azswede1960

Dave - Getting closer I think but not quite there!
1) removed the flasher, stuck in jumper into yellow wire, and put it on ground, HORN HONKS as long as I have ground.
2) When I ground the other side wire (Blue) in flasher connector, NOTHING happens.

Could it be that the doors and/or Ttops are not connected and open ? It looks like a BUBBA job under my shifter console ......... I also have a YELLOW wire coming from rear of car, that isn't connected to anything (that is why I thought that it may be the Ttop switches....but may be way off here!

I didn't quite understand about the ohmmeter test, can you clarify that one for me? I do have one but not sure where you wanted me to measure.....on the flasher blue wire with flasher removed, or at the relay.......

I also have a new relay but it didn't make any difference.

Got to be getting close at this point...... :confused:

azswede1960

Additional info now that I cannot sleep......

The Anti Theft Relay (so I thought) was really the Choke Heater Relay and there ISN'T another relay under shifter console........I assume that it was suppose to be next to the flasher but there isn't one!!!!! I do have some wires that are not connected to anything and some connectors that are cut off.......JEEZUZ H CHRIST :eek: I want to shoot someone :smash:

Turns out the relay is mounted on plate right in front of Shifter :D
How do I check this relay? Or where can I get a new one? I tried Autozone and ended up with one that is nothing like this one....looks identical to the Choke heater relay :cry :cry


[Modified by azswede1960, 12:08 AM 8/6/2003]


[Modified by azswede1960, 12:20 AM 8/6/2003]

BSeery

every time you post, I chuckle a little. You truly are going down the same path that my car lead me.

That path leads to the dark side, or the poor side, I am still following it and haven't found the end.

As far as your switches, if you have an "open" t-top switch the alarm will go off as soon as you arm it. You can not arm the alarm without the t-tops in place, which I think totally blows. If I want to hop into the store real quick to grab a Coke, I don't have the option to turn the alarm on if the tops are off.

I know that the tops should be on for security. I would like to be able to arm with out the tops just so if someone reaches in and opens the door the alarm will go off.

daves80

tom - you are closer than you think - check the flasher - plug the horn wire into the flasher then ground the other terminal of the flasher - should pulse - if not replace flasher napa#536 - you can replace the relay with a napa#192D relay but you cant use the original plug - or go to the wrecking yard and grab a relay off most any gm car made from 77 - 82 they used this relay for every thing - the easy one to get to is on the pass side firewall - its the the fan high speed relay - im pretty sure that its the same - if you decide to use a new style relay just unsnap the wires from the base of the old relay plugin and transfer to the new relays base - the configuration is the same - oh ya - if bseery is still listening - you can push a small wood screw into a short piece of vacuum hose and disable the ttop switches by pushing it into the ttop pin holes - it works great - i talked to my gm parts guy and he says the relay is gm part# is 463468 - $18.00 and is available - dave


[Modified by daves80, 12:17 PM 8/6/2003]


[Modified by daves80, 12:28 PM 8/6/2003]

BSeery

Thanks Dave !!

If it's the same as a high speed fan relay from a 1978 or so Malibu, then you could pick that up at Checker or another parts store.

daves80

i just checked with napa - their part# is AR130 to cross to that gm #463468 - so i ordered one to see if they are the same - will let you know - you gotta love electrical - dave

bloodvette80

yea.... gotta love electrical, my car has been down for a week now with elecrical problems possibly stemming from the alarm. I'm drawing current to beat the band and removed all fuses. It appears that my starter solenoid went but i can't tell becuase the battery cables get extremely hot and the battery charge lasts as long as a piece of meat amongst a pack of wolves. :mad

azswede1960

Dave - is that for the relay or the flasher ? My boy is on his way to NAPA right now......if they have one, I will get it

azswede1960

How in the world did you got those wheels so shiny? Some 38 step process I am guessing :)

daves80

tom - ok - 1 thing at a time - the flasher is a napa# 536 - 12v 2 terminal - same flasher your turn signals use - it is the heavy duty version - the relay i used is a napa # 192d but im checking to see if the AR130 is a plug in replacement - the pic in my post is from the day i bought the car and i cant tell you how they got them that shiny - it had 66,000 mi on it and had been garaged all its life i guess - its been a stuggle to keep them that way - salt air and all - - - just got the relay and i will check it when i get home but it sure looks correct - about 2 hrs - later - dave

daves80

oh yea i was going to say - is your starter solenoid frozen ? - that would cause the problem you are describing with the battery wires - dave


[Modified by daves80, 6:15 PM 8/6/2003]

daves80

ok i ckecked the napa relay - it fits - there is an extra terminal in the center that will make no connection , but it is only an extra load terminal - dave

azswede1960

Dave - this is what I have so far today:

1) New Napa Flasher & the AR130 relay
2) Relay has one extra post in it but same results with new one and old one
***************

The flasher connector has two posts:

1 post is the YELLOW wire
2nd post is two wires: Blue and Blue/White

A) I can take a jumper from the yellow connector to GROUND and horn works continously
B) I see open ckt on the 2nd terminal

**************************************
The Relay & wire connector looks like this:
Top Center Blue & Blue/White (2 wires)
Center left is YELLOW
Center right is ORANGE
Bottom center is BLACK.

************************************

Oh yeah - I was being proactive and wanted to check the LH Ttop switch and unscrewed it.....45 minutes later I have paneling all apart so I can get the things screwed back in.........

Anyway.....tell me what I should be doing with ohm and/or voltmeter to move on........

daves80

if you have put in the new flasher and relay and the horn doesnt honk then your door key switch or the protection switch in the drivers door may be faulty - on mine, the wire from the switch had broken where it attaches to the key switch - vibration from the door opening and closing i suppose - had to solder it back on - sorry but i dont remember the ohmmeter reading on the relay - that was 2 years ago - the relay should click when key is cycled and the ttops are off - maybe the theft fuse is blown - or the courtesy light fuse - uh - uh - i cant think of any thing else but im sure that there could be - hang in there i know that your close to whippin' this beast :banghead: - dave


[Modified by daves80, 7:29 PM 8/6/2003]

azswede1960

Both those switches are inside the drivers side door I take it?? Are they hard to get at after removing the panel ?

azswede1960

Dave - looking at the schematic from the shop manual, it shows a diode inline to flasher......and in description it shows "near flasher" I don't see one or maybe it is somewhere else?????? Do you remember seeing one on yours and if so, what does it look like ?

azswede1960

DAVE! I have it Partially working!!!!! traced out the wiring found problem with the Diode and fusebox.

Now I have it working from the HOOD, Psg side door and T-Top :party:

Any ideas on why it isn't working on Drivers side??? The switch on drivers door seem to be working as the dome light comes on when I open the door!!!!! But not theft alarm....... Let me know what you think (still bad switches even though light works????)