0Tom@Dewitt

There is an article on Corvette cooling in the new CORVETTE ENTHUSIAST magazine written by John Hinckley. The is the best information on the subject that has ever been published! He outlines each component function, addresses trouble shooting, possible cooling solutions, and touches on myths that continue to circulate.

I did not sponsor, pay for, or contribute to this project at all. John deserves all the credit for telling it exactly how it is. It is seven pages long, and I can't figure out how to scan and post it or I would. If you are interested in some real good FACTS, and not someones opinion, this is what you need to read.

Amos Automotive Publishing 863-688-2881 to subscribe

The article is in the Sept 2003 issue, and I can fax a copy to anyone with a fax number.

The only thing that was left out, was that you can upgrade the C3 brass/copper system with an aluminum replacement, but I think everyone knows that by now.

467-Ratman

Tom, One thing the article said was to run the Stewart\/Shaw t-stat rated at 180. I am currently using a Shaw 160 stat on my BB, have heard that RAT motors get hotter and take longer to cool. My engine sticks around the 175-195 range in town with the Spal fans working on and off, but on the highway it stays right around the 160 mark. Would it be ok to run a little hotter with the 180 stat and still not hurt anything? Thanks for the info, Tom

Astro7

I read this article and learned much about the cooling system on a Shark. One thing I never really gave much thought to for cooling was the front spoiler/air dam. It can really cause problems if it's not securely fastened in place.

0Tom@Dewitt

You got it! That's exactly what he says. This article hits on many importantant items in a subtle way. Sometimes these facts have to be SHOUTED OUT to us to hear them. For an example, he doesn't come right out and say, don't bother with the majic additives like wetter water or 40 below, but that is what it says. Yet all too many times people tell me "I knew it wouldn't work, but I had to try it".

So on the question of the thermostat lets see what he said and find your answer:

Article Quote on Thermostat:
"the most misunderstood componet........absolutely NOTHING to do with controlling maxiumum temperature, period"

Why so many people play with therostats for over heating is beyond me. The thermostat is simply a device that allows the engine to warm up quickly and modulate to keep the engine from running too cold, not too hot. You will also note the subtle useage of the term "calibrated restriction" which is very important to the GM engineered system.

If you are running any amount higher than the thermostat, then your system (radiator & fan) cannot disapate the heat that the engine is producing. Changing to a lower setting does nothing but make your car run (too low) at 160 on the highway. Put the 180 back in, it won't change the high end at all.

vette_net

I am looking a 73 BB and the owner has electic fans and he said with-out the chin spolier the vette ran at 220 on the hwy and the fans ran 80% of the time. Once he re-installed the chin spoiler the fans never come on above 30 mph and at hwy speeds the temp. is under 190 with an 180 stat. One other major heating problem is due to poor engine timming settings and wierd mismatched cams. This owner had his vette tuned on a dyno that allowed the best settings for the timming curve and carb settings. I just may buy this vette

page62

This is definitely an excellent article. It definitely is a must-read because it explodes many myths about C2 and C3 cooling issues!

I guess these are the kinds of articles the new editor was promising us when he said "wait and see" in an editorial a few monthes back.

JRODDVETTE

i'll take a copy if you dont mind faxing one.

attn:jared
860-649-1260

thanks alot

Charlie BB

Tom: Please fax a copy to 860-843-5568

Thanks very much!
Charlie

Carl in LA

One thing about those Shaw thermostats... With my set-up if I go directly from the garage to the freeway the thermo stays closed and the little bypass holes allow enough coolent to cycle that I never achieve true warm-up. Only when I drop off the freeway and hit the first stop light does the coolent come (quickly) up to thermo temperature.

This is likely due to where I live and drive... in So Cal so morning temps are typically in the fifties and low sixties, at the top of the hill - so my 10-mile freeway drive is low throttle going down hill at 70-mph, that beautiful new aluminum radiator, and that thermostat that allows flow to go through at any temp!

silver79

I just bought and tried the Allens waterless cooling system it seems to work except for the fact that when i have a normal cheap thermostat 180 the temp goes there fast (210) and stays there. With the high flow 180 thermostates the temp stays a around 150 until Ihit the highway but then it varies 200 to 225. Iam thinking of putting back the cheap one. I also have a 7 lbs cap.

0Tom@Dewitt

I think you mean "EVANS" coolant? Either way, any non-water coolant is actually going to run hotter, not cooler. Water disapates heat much better than glycol, which is why so many people swear by the majic additves. The principle behind these additives is that you run 100% water and two bottles of majic. Well, you will see a difference because water cools better. Another difference will come in about two years when the radiator dies due to the lack of any inhibitor package.

You will notice that all EVANS ads have changed from "run cooler" to "run better". The reason is that you don't run cooler and many people complained. The logic behind waterless coolant is for very high performance racing cars that typically run in the 230-260 degree range and water vapor is a problem. It's not for the everyday driver guy or really any of us. Change back to 50/50, install a 180 thermostat, see what you get.

flynhi

Please fax me a copy:
512-306-1314.
Thanks,Will

guppie

Tom, When you get the time I would appreciate the article faxed.
937-698-4113 Thank You! :cheers:

81' Corvette Guy

Guys is there anyway this can be put into a PDF file and linked to so those of us with no fax can please get a copy of this...am truely interested, looked for said magazine and cannot locate it in my area...TIA.

XLAR8R

Anyway of scanning it and e-mailing it ? I would like to read this as
am having trouble with mine running a little too warm but can not
locate the magazine in my area. Thanks.

BSeery

Not only that, but it would be great to add to the tech tips section. Come the beginning of next summer a whole crop of newbie C3 owners will be in here with the same old questions. It would be nice to have the answers already available.

0Tom@Dewitt

I am working on the scan and pdf idea. I never realized how many emails I would get for the fax. I will send it to the ones who asked me already but that's the cut off point. Someone out there has the Adolbe PDF writter program, speak up!

Disco_Mike

One thing that wasnt mentioned that i did with my system after a rebuild from a blown water pump. I took the original factory rad to a radiator shop. i had them recore the rad using the upgraded extra number of fins per inch. i forget the number. now my system rarely gets about 190 degrees. i had the factory waterpump rebuilt. left the shroud fan and fan clutch in placed. since the rebiold i have had no coooling problems. this included the heavy stop and go traffic last aug duriing the woodward dream cruise. the stock system is great if it is properly maintained.
Mike

Bobchad

Tom,

I have access. If you will fax me the article and the cover page to the magazine (let's give the appropriate credit) at 404-240-4612 I will scan it, have it converted to PDF and hopefully have it at a downloadable link by the end of the week.

Bob

0Tom@Dewitt

Here it is, just go to the "catalogs" section and download

www.dewitts.com