Skeets

I CANNOT get a decent brake pedal on my car... i have tried several methods of bleeding (and even just rebuilt my master cylinder) but the pedal just goes almost to the floor... even if i get a pedal which stops about a couple of inches from the floor after bleeding, as soon as i start the engine and the servo kicks in, it goes right down again??!!

it's driving me insane! :mad :mad :mad


Can i ask if anyone has a decent feeling brake pedal ... with the standard brake system? ... am i chasing after an impossible dream?? :cry

BigBadRed

are you pressure bleeding? I am not sure on a 79, but older c-3s need to be pressure bled.

--marc

JB

They're just a PITA, is all. You might try tapping the calipers with a wrench as you bleed them to break loose bubbles. Pressure bleeding is a good idea. If you're bleeding them by yourself, look at the idea in the tech session about using a piece of PVC pipe--I've used that trick very successfully on my car.

JB

Skeets

yep.. i read the piece on the tech site. I've tried bleeding them with someone else pumping the brake, as well as the gravity method with a piece of PVC pipe... no luck so far.

I think i'll probably try clamping the flexible pipe to each caliper in turn, just to see if i can get a decent pedal with a particular caliper isolated... i can't think what else it could be.

Something has GOT to be wrong to give suce dreadful brakes


:eek:

Matt Gruber

when you slam on the brakes at 50 mph, do the wheels lock?

BUGGSY1970

You have a problem somewhere. I have a 70 and my peddle is rock hard and the brakes work great. Remember that they are not anti lock brakes so they have different characteristics. If your peddle is real soft and goes to the floor you have a lot of air in the system. You need to know wher it is comming from if you have bled them correctly.

Check the condition of the pads and the rotors because they can leak from the sleeves due to wear. They can also leak from the sleeves due to corrosion. Have you had the calipers resleeved? If not consider it.

It may pay to get them pressure bled at a brake shop. the $50 bcks may save you some grey hair. Check all areas for leaks in the system first.

BSeery

I got tired of jacking around with mine, so I took it to Midas. They pressure bled and flushed all the old fluid. It was like $50, but I only had to have them do it once as apposed to all the times I could have been playing with them at home.

Matt Gruber

there was a guy here once that never test drove the car :rolleyes: :crazy: tell us about your test drives :nopity

Skeets

nope Matt... the brakes won't lock at 50mph.


yeah bugsy, Maybe pressure bleeding is the way to go... certainly worth a try if i can get the damn things sorted out.

I've had the rear caliper replaced with S/S sleeved units... so maybe i've got a problem with my fronts?

GROAN..Pleeeease don't say i need new front calipers!! ... well, not THIS year anyway :cry

Skeets

You wanna hear about my test drives???!!


Sheesh.... let me tell you about my test drives..

... the only driving i've DONE in this car this summer, is take it on test drives
:smash:

Matt Gruber

well
since the car did not wreck, it HAS some brakes.
Try on wet grass or gravel at low speed to see which wheels lock;
that will give important info
:cheers:

Skeets

good idea... thanks!

...... i feel another test drive coming up! :D

ukvette72

Hi Skeets

I found that the two man method of bleeding is definatley best. Also found air getting around the bleed valves. Wrapped the threads with PTFE tape (try B&Q) and the problem went away. Brakes now solid as a rock. Hope this helps

David

Matt Gruber

when you get back feel each wheel;
the cold ones are dead(bleed those, tips in sig)

Skeets

Thanks guys..... i shall attack the problem again tomorrow with renewed vigour!
:yesnod: