Starter alignment question
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Starter alignment question
A few weeks ago, I started my ’72 Corvette and heard a loud metallic grinding noise. It stopped after a couple of minutes of running the engine, but I discovered afterward that a brush had broken of in the starter motor, as well as smashing up the starter pinion teeth and destroying the spring that (I think) is supposed to disengage the starter pinion from the ring gear (thus stopping the noise). The ring gear teeth look OK. So, I put in a new starter, and now I hear the same grinding noise when I try to start the engine. The engine is turning over, but I don’t want to run the starter long enough to damage it again. It seems to me that there is some alignment problem with the starter engaging the ring gear, but I’m not sure about how to fix it. I have heard of shimming starters, but maybe someone can explain what exactly is shimmed and in which direction. I’m also concerned that the old starter worked for three years before doing this, and the new starter does it right away. Does anyone have any experience with this problem or suggestions as to the cause? Does it make a difference if I have a Lakewood bellhousing and aftermarket flywheel? The new (stock) starter looks identical to the one I took out of the car.
#2
Safety Car
Re: Starter alignment question (Velox72)
Starter shims are available at most auto stores. They consist of thin strips of metal that you slide between the block and the starter.
Here's what to do.
Unhook battery.
Get under car.
Remove flywheel inspection cover.
View how starter pinion meshes with flywheel.
This can be done by prying the pinion out with a screwdriver or it can be done by removing the solenoid and moving the plunger in and out (this way is easiest IMO)
The trrth should mesh with the flywheel so that you can fit a regular paperclip in between the meshed teeth.
If the teeth do not make enough contact you need to shim the outboard bolt. (stick shim between starter and block @ the outboard bolt hole. Keep experimenting with the number of shims until desired meshing of the teeth is achieved.
If there is too much contact shim the inboard bolt.
Its pretty easy, just takes patience.
My guess is that your starter is not making enough contact thus you will need to add shims.
Let us know your progress.
Stew
Here's what to do.
Unhook battery.
Get under car.
Remove flywheel inspection cover.
View how starter pinion meshes with flywheel.
This can be done by prying the pinion out with a screwdriver or it can be done by removing the solenoid and moving the plunger in and out (this way is easiest IMO)
The trrth should mesh with the flywheel so that you can fit a regular paperclip in between the meshed teeth.
If the teeth do not make enough contact you need to shim the outboard bolt. (stick shim between starter and block @ the outboard bolt hole. Keep experimenting with the number of shims until desired meshing of the teeth is achieved.
If there is too much contact shim the inboard bolt.
Its pretty easy, just takes patience.
My guess is that your starter is not making enough contact thus you will need to add shims.
Let us know your progress.
Stew
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Re: Starter alignment question (Stewart's74)
Well, there doesn't seem to be any inspection access in my bellhousing, which makes it a little hader, but I got the starter to work right by trial and error with different shim thicknesses. Thanks to Stew for the advice.
[Modified by Velox72, 6:26 PM 8/2/2003]
[Modified by Velox72, 6:26 PM 8/2/2003]