Buffalo Dude

The left rear just won't budge at all. Even got out the breaker bar. I was yanking on it from the underside of the car and my dad was pushing it down from the wheel well, still nothing. Brought out the impact wrench, cranked it up, and still no luck. Any ideas?

Also, the front brake lines won't come off. the rubber lines won't come off the steel lines, and it's starting to round off a little. My dad thinks it might be because the steel lines are bent right behind the nut a little, but what should I do if that's not it?

88'Cubka

Get some good penitrating oil. (not WD-40, Kroil or something really good.) Soak it for a day or two. Use impact and blamo, bye bye bolty bye.

:cheers:
David

Buffalo Dude

I've some pb blaster I've been using, I hope that's good enough. Last resort is heating it with a torch. Me and fire don't mix well (or actually mix too well) I always get carried away with it. :mad :D

LAvetteman

I second the kroil, been using it for years. Only available straight from KANO Laboritries, but I have an extra can or two. Send me an IM if you are interested.

88'Cubka

I have 2 cases of it. Best stuff in the world.

Schmucker

Tri-Flow is some good stuff too.

R. Bruno

Give the penetrating oil time to work. This is the key. Don't force it. ( I use PB Blaster which is readily available in auto parts stores and good, but I am told that Kroll is great stuff but a little harder to come by)

Be ready to replace as many lines as you can get to. In the back do all the hard lines including the one that runs across the rear crossmember. Worse case scenario in front is that you have to replace some lines. . The good news is they are cheap- the bad news is they are difficult to get to, but you will have peace of mind and you will know it is done right. Use a 5pt. impact socket on the caliper bolts. I had the same problem- took me a few DAYS to get the last bolt loose, don't despair! :cheers:

phrogs

Yeah give it time to work It might be good just to spray it everyday for a few days them try it!

johnny :thumbs:

Matt Gruber

go 3 seconds on, then 6 seconds off, with impact wrench.
Repeat
Repeat

adamdinat

I split the caliper (bolts exposed on outside of caliper) which exposes the caliper mounting ears. This allows you to put the penetrating oil where it counts. I used heat and an impact wrench on mine.

dath

I think this is sound advice. Also, another thing to try would be to use a hammer on the bolt heads fairly firmly. This seems to help break things loose when nothing else will work.

As for the lines you cannot get loose, make sure you are using line wrenches. If you round those nuts off, you're in for lots of fun with vice grips... I'd replace those hoses anyhow, so just worry about getting them off, not saving them... From that standpoint, you could probably cut them, then use a box end wrench on one side and a line wrench on the other...

mapman

I replaced all the brake lines on my 1980. They also would not come off without rounding the connectors and I used PB Blaster and had a good line wrench set. I had planned to replace the lines in any case.

You might look at the price of new lines vs the price of aggravation. :lol:

Buffalo Dude

Good news: rear caliper is off, ended up stealing the lever off a floor jack and sticking that on the end of a breaker bar. Neither of the impact wrenches worked in breaking it free.

Bad news: I now have two, very nice, completely useless rounded front steel tubes. Couldn't break them free for the life of me. Somehow it shouldn't be that hard considering there's no rust, I think the last guy just cranked it on until it didn't leak anymore.

Looks like i'll be replacing both front lines. Is SS worth the price over regular steel? Where's the best place to get them?

Thanks a lot to everyone for their help :chevy

Freepop

Is SS worth the price over regular steel?

Do it right, once and live happily ever after. :yesnod:

NHvette

I sprung the extra $ for SS lines. I have heard rumors that they may be
more difficult to get seated in the fittings. I figure that once they are seated,
I may never take them out again. Neither the steel or SS pre-made lines are
cheap. If I didn't opt for the stainless, I would have made the lines up myself.
I bought my set from ZIP (C1-C3 Restoration link on the left).

:seeya