Surfer69

When leaving manual tranny in car, do you keep bell housing attached to block or try leaving bell housing attached to tranny?

I know some say take tranny out too but no thanks.

Greg

Hey dude!
Getting it out is no prob. But going back in and trying to re-spline the clutch from the engine side is gonna be a bitch. If you're just talking about pulling the engine and not worried about the re-install, then pull the bell with the engine. It's only 4 bolts and they're easy to get to.
I 've pulled lots of them and always pull the trans with the engine (4speed not automatic) either way, Good luck, Greg

burners

You can go either way but it is probably easier to leave the bellhousing on. Just remember that you are basically pulling the transmission then pulling the engine. So unbolt everything on the transmission so it can be completely removed then as you begin to remove the engine you can just pull the transmission out of the bellhousing.

Matt Gruber

to make it go back together easier, i write down the angle of the engine/trans with the distance to a tunnel spot(both installed and at the un-docking height). i chain in the trans.
Working alone this works; working with a friend is a different story.

Surfer69

I'll be doing it tonight, sounds like leaving housing on block is good. Then I'll loosen tranny bolts a little to allow a little jacking up while lifting eninge. I think if I leave tranny in up position it should be easier to align spline and pilot going back in.

Ken74Conv

I say leave the bell housing in. I've done several and there is no good reason to remove it. By leaving it in it allows for easier installation because you can see what you are doing from the top (angle, alignment pins, etc.)
:cheers:

Matt Gruber

the trans is not going to hang there by itself, at least not where you want it..
i have a padded 2x4 4' long i hang across the fenders, chain and turnbuckle attaches to it and trans.

Dwayne 76

Matt do you have any pics of engine removal. In the future, should I grow a set of testicales, I'd like to pull the motor and drop in a new one.

conway62

I cant see how you could ever line up the splines wighout shifting the tranny around. That would require that the tranny be unbolted to move it back and forth so why not just pull it with the engine?

Surfer69

Cant you shift/turn engine a little to align splines before locking in mounts?

GDaina

nope....not at all....when I pulled the 427 to install the 502, the 5 speed was already in, and no way was I going to pull the 5 gear out. I left the tranny bolted to the bellhousing, and when the 533 went back in, it was just a matter of jiggling the motor to align with the centering pins and the tranny spline....had to turn the tranny output shaft a couple of times before the splines mated. It was not bad....saved pulling the radiator, and a whole bunch of work. I used a heavy duty plastic bucket to hold the bellhousing and tranny in place. Next time I pull a motor, the bellhousing and tranny are staying in place.

Ken74Conv

Trust me, it's not that big a deal to align the splines as long as you used a clutch alignment tool before tightening the pressure plate. It is not necessary to loosen the transmission.

conway62

Surfer69,
Let us know how you make out. I will be pulling my 454 our next weekend as well. I think I will try to leave the bell housing connected to the tranny and just pull the motor with the clutch assembly attached. Sounds like a few folks have done it before and worked well for them.

Matt Gruber

with the engine hanging on a hoist it can be moved easily, at least an inch or 2 in any direction. a load leveler is highly recommended.
the trans just sits there :sleep:

the trick ive learned is to write down the angle/location. it's easy to be 3 or 4 inches off without that info; the engine gets real heavy and the angle will be wrong and it wont go together.
i have a $9 protractor level, and a 4" bubble level. This method is because when i'm working alone, i don't like crawling under the car for any reason as any accident could leave me trapped for days. So i take my time and i dont crawl under or do any heavy lifting.
My guess is you guys wont take the measurments and then will complain how hard it is too align :D
Dwayne i don't have any photos, sorry


[Modified by Matt Gruber, 2:13 PM 7/30/2003]

mrvette

UHHHH, Pardon Me guys, BUT you all ever notice how a automatic has the lower section of the bellhousing cut back toward the rear of the car?? and that silly steel access cover in place??? it's for access to the flex plate/converter bolts, of course....

WELL, the same sort of cut on any stickshift tranny can be done, and therefore get at the pressure plate bolts, leave them loose enough just a slight bit of friction on the clutch disc, and slip the mess in place, get under the car and tighten up the pressure plate bolts, just as if they were converter bolts....job done, no sweat....

just because Detroit didn't think of it, don't mean it's not possible....
cut many of them, done it many a time....

GENE

GDaina

Good point Gene, but why cut the plate? remove it all together, when done, bolt it back in place, just remove the thin strip so the cover clears the starter.

conway62

If you have a tight fitting alignment tool you should be able to align and torque everything and slide the engine in place. The most you should have to do is maybe move rotate the drive shaft a bit to align the spline to the entry of the pressure plate. If you leave the pressure plate loose you will never get the alignment to work.

Matt Gruber

on old inputshaft works GREAT. mine was lost, so now i use sockets, works fine, but takes longer