Rear brake failure on 1979
#1
8th Gear
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Rear brake failure on 1979
While out of town on business driving my 1979
Corvette, exiting the freeway I noticed a loss of braking power suddenly and then the brake light went on. Arriving at my destination, the front rotors were hot to the touch and both rear rotors were cool. The master cylinder was full of fluid in both reservoirs and there was no evidence of leakage anywere. I also noticed that the emergency brake provided no stopping power. I thought that failure of both rear calipers at once was unlikely so am suspecting that the rear brake circuit of the master cylinder failed for some reason. I also suspect that the loss of emergency brake must be unrelated since I can't verify when it last did work since I never have to use it.
any thoughts?
Corvette, exiting the freeway I noticed a loss of braking power suddenly and then the brake light went on. Arriving at my destination, the front rotors were hot to the touch and both rear rotors were cool. The master cylinder was full of fluid in both reservoirs and there was no evidence of leakage anywere. I also noticed that the emergency brake provided no stopping power. I thought that failure of both rear calipers at once was unlikely so am suspecting that the rear brake circuit of the master cylinder failed for some reason. I also suspect that the loss of emergency brake must be unrelated since I can't verify when it last did work since I never have to use it.
any thoughts?
#2
Burning Brakes
Re: Rear brake failure on 1979 (boblad)
Check your proportioning valve.. Light should have come on. Also check blocks in theb lines... Your parkingf breake is a drum brake inside wheel... (hub) Not relying on brake fluid, but rather a cable. These can be adjusted.., I would suspect your cable there is loose o boken, or drums need adjusting.
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Re: Rear brake failure on 1979 (Matt Gruber)
The brake light did come on and is staying on as I would have expected when the pressure became uneven. I suspect it is more likely that the master cylinder is bad than the proportioning valve. Not sure how to troubleshoot the valve so I'm inclined to kit the cylinder first.
#6
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Re: Rear brake failure on 1979 (boblad)
I had similar symptoms. What wa happening is that my rear rotors had too much runout and were doing the notorious air-pumping. When too much air got in the rear system, the porportioning valve blocks it off and diverts all the braking power to the front (seals off the port so no fluid can get to the back because the air in the system simulates a failure)
You can try re-bleeding them. You might want to check rotor run out first. Do a search to see what the max should be.
But to get fluid to the rears you'll have to crack one of the fronts too so that the piston in the porportioning valve re-centers. Once you get a decent flow of fluid going to the rears you can close the front and start the proper bleeding sequence.
You can try re-bleeding them. You might want to check rotor run out first. Do a search to see what the max should be.
But to get fluid to the rears you'll have to crack one of the fronts too so that the piston in the porportioning valve re-centers. Once you get a decent flow of fluid going to the rears you can close the front and start the proper bleeding sequence.
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Re: Rear brake failure on 1979 (isosceles)
thanks for the great advice. I had that same thing happen a long time ago and had to replace a rotor due to a very slight crack. I'll check the runout first and go from there. cheers
#8
Burning Brakes
Re: Rear brake failure on 1979 (boblad)
thanks for the great advice. I had that same thing happen a long time ago and had to replace a rotor due to a very slight crack. I'll check the runout first and go from there. cheers
A couple more things to be aware of while you are doing this... The rotor and spindle are turned at the factory as a unit. So if you decided to replace the rotors, you may need to shim the new rotors to eliminate runout, even if the rotors themselves are true. Also, it has been suggested by many folks that the design of the Corvette calipers with springs behind the pistons may result in making the air sucking problem worse because the pistons constantly try to reseat against an out of true rotor. The solution to this is to make sure your rotors have less than .03" runout when installed *AND* to remove the springs from your calipers. Also, with the sleeved calipers, you can get either lip seal, or o-ring seal, something I really wish I knew when I bought my sleeved calipers as I thought all sleeved calipers were o-ring... Anyhow, it is said that the o-ring design is superior as well. Probably since an o-ring isn't as directional is a lip-seal it helps when you have runout pushing the pistons against the normal direction of travel...