bob

For years I have been using a mixture of STP and motor oil and it has worked well. Only problem is it is messy and usually I build on my stand with a drip tray so isn't a problem. Yesterday I was doing rod bearings on a sbc in car. Messy messy in your face. So am thinking of trying to climb a little out of the dark ages, what do you guys use? Would like something that can be applied overhead with your finger tip. Anyone use white lithium grease or vaselime or only the high tech?
Thanks
bob

Big Fish

I use a product called Clevite 77 on everything EXCEPT the cam lobes, my engine builder swears by the stuff. It's red and will stay put for the most part, you should still prime the oil pump and system prior to starting the engine however. The cam lobes and lifter faces got a special high pressure grease made by Iskendrian. The stuff is almost black. Many cams will come with enough of the stuff for installation. I used a very similar product on the connecting rod bolts from ARP.

vette_c5c6

Most pro-engine builders use white grease in a tube, easy to get and not messy. To many people complicate an easy task. lube is lube. Remember with-in seconds of an engine start the oil will do its magic. :smash:

RJR99SS

i'm not a firm believer in "assembly lubes". all the ones i've seen are just petrolium oil thats very thick, almost to the point of tackiness. I think the point of them is to stick to all the parts to insure that you have some sort of lubrication on startup. After all, it could be a year after assembly that you actually start the sucker up.

I get away with just priming the oil pump.

Rockn-Roll

I believe assembly lube is only for engines that will sit for awhile before starting since the lube is thick and will stay in place. For engines that I will be running right after building I just soak all the parts, i.e. crank, cam, bearings, etc. in the same motor oil I will be using in the engine, usually Pennzoil 20W-50. I let the parts soak overnight so that the metal will be saturated...also helps if the temps are in the 80's or more so the heat will help thin the oil enough to penetrate the metal better. This also means I don't have to worry about thick deposits of lube clogging the oil passages until the engine heats up and melts it. It also means I don't have to change the oil right after starting the engine...I just drive it like I stole it after an engine rebuild!

Rolling Thunder

Don't know if the general is any expert or not, but they ship out a quart of GM EOS Assembly Lubricant with their new crate engines to prelube crank, cam and moving parts with. Should be available over the counter at any Goodwrench parts center. My guess is the STP mix is just as good and no more of a mess to work with. I do think the EOS tastes better though and doesn't sting the eyes as bad.
:lol:

bob

Thanks for the replies.
bob