Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT?
07-19-2003, 05:29 PM
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Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT?
Whats everyones opinion on the replacement fiberglass leafspring and which one--ex. 355 lbs, 360lbs or stick w/the stock. Trying to get my 69 to ride better--feeling her age in the handling. Maybe some new shocks and springs. If anyones put one of those suspension kits on--is it difficult--I am very handy but have never done any suspension work.
07-19-2003, 05:42 PM
#2
Safety Car
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
i like my composite mono leaf. i got the 340lb TRW. I also put 460lb touring coils in the front and Bilstien shocks. You'll need the Bilstiens to controll the deflection of the mono leaf. The car now rides and handles much better than it did when stock. at first I was running the stock shocks with the mono leaf but it was kinda bouncy as the stock shocks couldnt handle the added spring rate. The Bilsteins solved it though. I also put in Energy Suspension poly graphite bushing throughout the whole car at the same time. if I had the choice again ide do it all exactly the same.
07-19-2003, 06:05 PM
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-16-'17
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
Fiberglass rear leafspring -- GOOD :thumbs:
I might have to give JVette73's suggestion of Bilstien shocks a try. I have stock shocks and if you hit a bump just right it tends to react a bit springy. :lol: Then again, maybe I think it is springy because I was used to the flat worn out old metal spring. :)
As for difficulty replacing the spring and shocks... it is not that hard. If you do moderate engine work (like replace water pumps, starters, alts, etc) you should not be challenged by replacing the spring. You'll definitely need a 1/2" socket set and maybe some strong muscles to remove the bolts holding the old spring on. To do the job right, you'll also need a torque wrench.
Edit: if only I could spele
[Modified by Rogue Wave, 6:07 PM 7/19/2003]
I might have to give JVette73's suggestion of Bilstien shocks a try. I have stock shocks and if you hit a bump just right it tends to react a bit springy. :lol: Then again, maybe I think it is springy because I was used to the flat worn out old metal spring. :)
As for difficulty replacing the spring and shocks... it is not that hard. If you do moderate engine work (like replace water pumps, starters, alts, etc) you should not be challenged by replacing the spring. You'll definitely need a 1/2" socket set and maybe some strong muscles to remove the bolts holding the old spring on. To do the job right, you'll also need a torque wrench.
Edit: if only I could spele
[Modified by Rogue Wave, 6:07 PM 7/19/2003]
07-19-2003, 06:09 PM
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Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Jvette73)
Yep, it's hard to beat the combination of a 340 lb fiberglass spring in the rear, some 460's in the front and good shocks on all 4.
07-19-2003, 10:42 PM
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St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
Got glass springs front and rear, imo one of the best bolt-ons you can do...
Mike :cheers:
Mike :cheers:
07-19-2003, 10:44 PM
#6
Safety Car
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
I've got a 330 lb TRW composite spring with AC Delco Reactek shocks in the rear, it rides great (no problem with rebound). Love the setup.
07-20-2003, 12:44 AM
#8
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Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
When I bought my car 7+ years ago, it was mechanically untouched...and then I rebuilt everything in site,...if it moved, it was replaced....
and just for kicks I went back from my VBP fiber spring to the stock steel one...and promptly switched back to the fiber spring....
only thing I feel was an error in my suspension work is changing out the front coils...leave the stock one's in for rough roads...smooth roads,...yeh, the ~460 springs are fine....
I think I will also go back to the thinner front sway bar, and remove the rear sway bar also....trying to get more of a smooth ride out of it...tired of all the shaking over every pebble in the road....
GENE
and just for kicks I went back from my VBP fiber spring to the stock steel one...and promptly switched back to the fiber spring....
only thing I feel was an error in my suspension work is changing out the front coils...leave the stock one's in for rough roads...smooth roads,...yeh, the ~460 springs are fine....
I think I will also go back to the thinner front sway bar, and remove the rear sway bar also....trying to get more of a smooth ride out of it...tired of all the shaking over every pebble in the road....
GENE
07-20-2003, 01:58 AM
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Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
I just replaced my old stock steel leaf spring with a VBP 360lb composite spring. Rest of the suspension is stock, will change shocks soon. I will let you know what I think of the new spring once I drive it. Instalation is very easy.
[Modified by 79corvette, 2:00 AM 7/20/2003]
[Modified by 79corvette, 2:00 AM 7/20/2003]
07-20-2003, 10:47 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Sixty9)
I like my rear mono leaf from VBP, but make sure you get good shocks designed for mono leafs. I went with the KYB2 shocks and am very happy with the ride and performance. I use to have the Bilsteins, but they were just too stiff for the roads in Indiana.
Jason
Jason
07-20-2003, 11:40 AM
#11
Race Director
Re: Fiberglass rear leafspring--GOOD or NOT? (Jason Staley)
...and after 10 posts singing the praise for glass springs, I'm going to be different! :)
Tried several glass springs (360 and 315), and several different shocks. I HATED the ride with all the combos. It just kept bouncing on me.
Finally went with a later C3 steel spring (2.5" wide 9 leaf) and a set of edelbrock IAS shocks. Now I'm happy with the ride. No bounce and does fine on the sorry excuses they call roads here in Dallas.
My car also had poly bushings in the front when I bought it and I replaced the lower control arm bushings with rubber as I hated the sqealing and harsh ride. Still have poly on the uppers as they have less forces on them and don't sqeal.
Final thing I did that made a night and day difference in ride was switching to the 73-up rubber body mounts.
Tried several glass springs (360 and 315), and several different shocks. I HATED the ride with all the combos. It just kept bouncing on me.
Finally went with a later C3 steel spring (2.5" wide 9 leaf) and a set of edelbrock IAS shocks. Now I'm happy with the ride. No bounce and does fine on the sorry excuses they call roads here in Dallas.
My car also had poly bushings in the front when I bought it and I replaced the lower control arm bushings with rubber as I hated the sqealing and harsh ride. Still have poly on the uppers as they have less forces on them and don't sqeal.
Final thing I did that made a night and day difference in ride was switching to the 73-up rubber body mounts.
