battsup

Those of you that have swapped out your carbs for TPI systems out of F-bodys and vettes, how hard was it to do? I know I will need to install an oxygen sensor and a return line as well as a new fuel pump. What else will i need? Can I just go to the auto wrecker and take out the manifold and tpi unit and buy a simple wiring kit with an ecm from somebody like painless? or is it more complicated than that? I don't know who it was but i remember reading something about a tpi swap and painless harness or sumthin in a signature.

PatsLs1vette

Youll need a 3/8 feed line a 5 /16 return line and inline pump or adapt an intank pump(high pressure).Your best bet is to find a donor car trans am ,camaro,corvette and get everything off of it you can.I used the factory wiring harness and wired it in ,since i did wiring for a living and a mechanic it wasnt too bad for me,but painless makes a nice harness you might be better off with that.Im happy i did it to mine ill never go back to carb again.

Fevre

I bought a couple books on it before I bought mine which is yet t be intalled. I am thinking the stock unit will not meet any of my needs so I may end up sellig it to peice one together to match my future plans. Can't find the books but they have titles like 'TPI swappers guide' and 'How to tune and modify a tpi'. Good info to give you a basic understanding of how they work, how to tune and midfy and also how to swap and what to look for when buying depending on your needs. One thing they state that had been proven to be false by forum member ski_down_it is that the stock MAF unit will not make over 400 hp. He has his modified by removing the screen and porting it to make over 500 hp in his c4 and run 11 sec 120+ mph qtrs.

Do you have a time frame in mind for your swap? Wish you lived near me I woudl sell you mine and help you put it in just to learn for my vette. I am going to use a diff intake and fuel injectors along with a programable FI system so really it is silly for me to even put it on my car when I will need to change so many things.

Budman68

Read up. These units can be a joy and very difficult. After it was said and done, I could have installed a donor LS-1 for what I paid to install everything.

They are alot of fun to drive. Loads of torque at very low rpms.

BSeery

Talk to these guys -- http://www.arizonatpi.com/ -- they can sell you a whole kit full of new equipment.

battsup

so will i need to get the computer too? There is no set timeframe but i am in the process of uncovering what type of performance parts are still on the engine(my dad suspects some were stolen by the rebuilder back in '86) that will be what decides the timeframe for the TPI(because of money i may need to spend on that stuff first). Right now I am rebuilding the brake calipers and I will start painting things(calipers,exhaust pipes, carburator brackets and linkages, and polish the intake manifold and carb) before the weekend.

This is sorta related, how can i find out what type of heads I have and what the compression ratio is? Do i have to remove the valve covers or are they stamped on the outside?

Budman68

Start another topic on heads and yes you will probably need the numbers.

Yes you need a computer. No problem, most are almost free at junkyards.

mrvette

Well, with a stock rams horn exhaust, I just drilled the heat riser flapper valve for an O2 sensor, which places it close enough a single wire/unheated unit works fine....
headers need be placed in the collector, so you need a cheap heated unit...
I used a Bosch 13190 for about 35 bux at Auto Zone....

The computet to use is a 1227730, which is a MAP style computer, making wiring and plumbing easier....given the choices of plumbing...and costs...

I just used a K/N oval air filter....

I did my own wiring harness too....soldered everything, used junkyard connectors, at the right price...

run the computer inside the pass compartment, cooler operation there...
either behind the glove box/map pouch...or inthe center console under an aftermarket radio.....run the wires in a 'notch' n the a/c dust setup between the main ductwork and the main distribution valve/air deflector, winds up just behind and to the pass side of the distributor...anything I tried in my first go around throug the driver's side was an interior wiring NITEMARE!!!

GENE

nitrocharger

It took me about 20 hours to convert over and fired up on the first try, results may vary! lol
I would highly recommend the Chevy TPI Swappers Guide by John Baechtel, this book will more than pay for itself. As far as the fuel return goes, there is a 3/8 feed and a 5/16 or 1/4? return line that is already on your car. I installed my pump under the pass seat (under the car of course) and tied it in where there is a factory rubber hose connecting the two steel lines together. I used hard plumbing and braided line on the pressure side and basically left the return system stock. If you know a little about circuits and general controller logic, you'll be fine. And there are plenty of us on the forum to help you out if you need it. You will appreciate the difference too!
~Christian

phoenix

I'm hoping to turn the key on mine for the first time tomorrow night. :)

That is... provided I can finish the throttle cable and track down the bad ground on the fuel pump relay. :cheers:

battsup

O for a minute there i thought you wrote 20 minutes and i was about to jump for joy, but then the truth settled in. O well 20 hours isn't that bad, less than a days work :lol: