what it needed for L98 head swap
07-16-2003, 01:36 PM
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: what it needed for L98 head swap (szercer)
you are talking about using the 58CC aluminum heads that came on the mid-year C4's ???
If so, a stock intake will mount up just fine. You will need a new gasket set. You will also have to re-tune the timing and carb. mixture as you are going to now have better flow and higher compression.
Are you doing any other changes such as headers ?
OH -- just remembered. If you use the stock exhaust manifolds they may run into the edge of the valve covers. I had to grind mine down a bit to make them fit. Look here ---- http://www.redhotvettes.net/zz4/ZZ45.HTM for more information on this.
If so, a stock intake will mount up just fine. You will need a new gasket set. You will also have to re-tune the timing and carb. mixture as you are going to now have better flow and higher compression.
Are you doing any other changes such as headers ?
OH -- just remembered. If you use the stock exhaust manifolds they may run into the edge of the valve covers. I had to grind mine down a bit to make them fit. Look here ---- http://www.redhotvettes.net/zz4/ZZ45.HTM for more information on this.
07-16-2003, 06:09 PM
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Re: what it needed for L98 head swap (BSeery)
yeah the c4 ones, is there a difference in performance betwween the different casting numbers? I think I have seen 113 and 128's. I have Dynomax headers and dual exhaust sitting around along with a weiand intake that fits the old quadrajet.
Say I bought a pair complete, wouild the valve springs be enough to handle a 268xe comp cam? anyhelp appreciated, thanks
Say I bought a pair complete, wouild the valve springs be enough to handle a 268xe comp cam? anyhelp appreciated, thanks
07-16-2003, 06:18 PM
#4
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Re: what is needed for L98 head swap (szercer)
Are you sure you wanna go with L98s and not some other aftermarket setup? (Trick Flow, AFR, Brodix...)
If your goal is to reduce weight and bump up the compression ratio, you're on the right track. If your goal is ultimately performance, you may want to spend your cash elsewhere.
Other than that, I doubt BSeery would lead you astray with what he said about fitment. :)
They're just basic Gen 1 small block heads.
-Steve
If your goal is to reduce weight and bump up the compression ratio, you're on the right track. If your goal is ultimately performance, you may want to spend your cash elsewhere.
Other than that, I doubt BSeery would lead you astray with what he said about fitment. :)
They're just basic Gen 1 small block heads.
-Steve
07-16-2003, 06:30 PM
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Re: what is needed for L98 head swap (Pacin'California)
they would still add 30 hp or so over the L48 iron heads , right? If they would bolt right on and shave off 50 lbs, I would be up for it.
07-16-2003, 06:39 PM
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: what is needed for L98 head swap (szercer)
I would contact the cam manufacture and get it straight from them about the springs. If you've got the budget you may want to go to roller rockers now.
They will bump up the compression and you will get a good amount of HP right there. They will be lighter weight and will cool the cylinders better, letting you run more advance and leaner mixture without detonation.
Make sure to "gasket match" the ports on the intake and heads. That means mount an intake manifold gasket to the head and use a die grinder to remove the material on the head until it matches the gasket. Then do the same for the intake. It helps get max. performance from the install.
See this picture from "Scooter70" 's post.
See the extra metal that can be seen through the port openings in the cylinder head? You want to remove that so the edges of the gasket and the edges of the cylinder head match.
In this picture of the intake manifold you can see the outline left from the intake gasket. Again, remove the excess material. This will help you pick up better flow on the intake side. It's little details like this that will give you another 5-7 HP and a better running car.
They will bump up the compression and you will get a good amount of HP right there. They will be lighter weight and will cool the cylinders better, letting you run more advance and leaner mixture without detonation.
Make sure to "gasket match" the ports on the intake and heads. That means mount an intake manifold gasket to the head and use a die grinder to remove the material on the head until it matches the gasket. Then do the same for the intake. It helps get max. performance from the install.
See this picture from "Scooter70" 's post.
See the extra metal that can be seen through the port openings in the cylinder head? You want to remove that so the edges of the gasket and the edges of the cylinder head match.
In this picture of the intake manifold you can see the outline left from the intake gasket. Again, remove the excess material. This will help you pick up better flow on the intake side. It's little details like this that will give you another 5-7 HP and a better running car.